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Foxwell is Chinese supported (again, if that matters) and the recommended model is the 510. Reviews on it seem to be a matter of personal taste. I've looked at them for my wife's Cadillac. There are too many models that claim to work with her vehicle but not enough details to differentiate between each model. Here's one for the XKR: http://vi.vipr.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayI...1&secureDesc=0
Foxwell does allow you to add more vehicles (up to 5) for a fee. and they also claim free software updates for life.
The clones are in a word, garbage. Unless you want to spend time clowning around with the hacked software. The Mongoose clone, also "Mangoose" are laptop bound. The guys that get them to work right are usually tech savvy. A lot if guys brick modules using them.
I have the OEM VCM and software and it works fine, (again old laptop needed)
From watching this thread and seeing your extreme skill set, I'd go with iCarsoft - either module. If you want to start reprogramming modules, I'd avoid Mongoose like the plague and find a used OEM. My comments don't come from personal experience but reading the nightmares others have gone through. I don't get why some guys are up and running in no time with the clones and others are constantly fighting with them, ultimately ending up with the iCarsoft i930 or LR II or Foxwell510.
One other thing that's reared its ugly head is the cabin fan motor is running all the time. I suspect the blower fan control module has crapped out. Torn between hitting the salvage for an OEM one or playing the replacement part lottery. Autozone says it's $142 for a dura-won't-last one. I need the exercise...
Search this and the X350 forum for several members that have repaired the blower module - from reading it doesn't appear too difficult.
Not my conditions but still ordered a replacement for $8.
Did spend an hour or so wandering around the junk yard in 28` weather with no luck as everything was too old to use this design. Actually felt pretty good to hop back in the truck once done.
None with our cars, just a couple local ones that have S types and some other oddballs. There's the one down by Roanoke, East Coast Auto Source, that I need to ride down to for a console some day.
Last edited by Ranchero50; 12-15-2017 at 08:38 PM.
$8 replacement hasn't gone up in smoke yet. Took about 5 minutes to swap it out. 1/4" drive ratchet with a #2 Phillips in a 1/4" short socket worked well for the left bolt and a regular #2 Phillips was fine for the right one. Getting the clips to release for the vanity cover was the hardest part of the job.
Ah, 26` this morning, car was two day cold soaked and the drivers door switch froze this morning. Kind of weird. The door made an unhappy pop when it opened and the window didn't seem to go down. Popped going shut too and then it kept giving me a door open alarm. Door glass was outside the seal on the ride in but after enduring sauna conditions for the ride the switch thawed out and closed normally. was sure I was going to have a dead battery tonight but still might. Two hours to go.
Nope, frozen again at 24`. Not as bad this time. Left the car warm up while waiting on the kid and on the way onto the interstate, hit a bump and the switch cycled. Sprayed it with some WD40 just as a feel good measure and it's in the garage tonight plugged in.
Nope, frozen again at 24`. Not as bad this time. Left the car warm up while waiting on the kid and on the way onto the interstate, hit a bump and the switch cycled. Sprayed it with some WD40 just as a feel good measure and it's in the garage tonight plugged in.
Gonna be COLD in the AM. Worse Thursday.
Yea, it's sub-zero here in the Omaha area this morning. My Jag is parked-n-plugged until the streets clear. Had a service appointment for the Mrs.' Land Rover this morning, and they ran it through the car wash. Cannot frigging WAIT until that thing freezes up and leaves her stranded at a parking lot somewhere. I've got it in the garage hoping it will dry there, but even the garage is a cold sonofa____ this morning.
To quote the old song, "I gotta get out of this place!"
When I expanded my garage in 2014 by 400 sq. ft. I made the wise choice to add a natural gas ceiling mounted heater. OH what joy it has given me in my golden years. Twenty degrees outside, always, at least 65º inside. Eight hundred for the unit, $250 for installation.
It was 41` in the garage this morning so the door worked correctly. However, the window now thinks it's all the way down when it's up so I assume it froze in the up position and tripped the circuit breaker triggering a 'bottom' limit. Torn between pulling a battery cable to reset it or just leaving it alone for a couple more cold days.
Today it's cold and snowy outside. The XKR is nestled up warm and snug in the garage with the other toys and I've finally decided to do something about my whining pump. It only whines when cold so I decided to flush / refill the PS fluid. A brief glimpse showed pretty clean fluid in the reservoir...
But first a pair of pics of the car outside last week on a sunnier day along side my old Lincoln LS. Funny how the XKR looks bigger than the 4 door sedan it replaced.
Back to the PS flush. First step was to warm the engine since it's so cold out and then remove the right side air filter tubing. Then unbolt the reservoir and have at it. Inside the reservoir is a find mesh filter molded into the white cap that's held in place with a T20 torx screw. For some dumb reason who ever designed this made the filter larger than the opening. I used a little hydraulic pump to draw the fluid out of the tank. A turkey baster would work about as well. My fluid looked good until I removed the screw and lifted the filter out. Pic was taken while going back together. (less mess)
Looking at the fittings I can only assume that the filter is between the return (little) and suction (large) hoses and the trash is only filtered after it's run through the PS system. According to the service manual cold whine can be related to the filter and the reservoir needs replaced to fix it. Makes sense if the filter is acting like a restriction like mine. Anyway, once the filter was loose I flicked it out of the way and used a smaller tube to draw the oil out of the bottom and even down into the suction hose some. Next step was to remove the hoses from the fittings. (yes, that's the oil I got out of the system in the background. Looked clear above the filter...
Hard to see but the hoses were held on with the normal spring clamps and ten years of heat cycles. Once the clamps were out of the way some gentle twisting with channel locks freed the rubber and they eventually slid off. I used my little tube to suck the oil out of the suction side but ran into what I assume is a check valve in the hose coming back from the coolers.
Service manual said to go buy 4 liters of PS fluid, remove the return and cap the fitting on the reservoir. Then clamp a longer hose to the return line and keep the reservoir topped off while running the engine and turning the wheel back and forth. 4 liters into a bucket... At $10.29 a quart for Mobil 1 ATF I decided to improvise. I clamped the return hose to a plastic container and used compressed air into the suction hose to push as much fluid as possible out of the return path. It went surprisingly well.
After the system was 'drained' as well as I was going to attempt I filled the reservoir with half a can of brake clean, installed the cap and shook the bejesus out of it to 'wash' the filter. Once drained I finished the job with the rest of the can blasting everything. Once dry it went back together. So far without starting the engine I've used 1/2 of the quart bottle to fill the reservoir.
I still need to reseal my thermostat housing before putting the intake tubing back in place.
Amazing what can lie hidden with in various systems.
You have provided an excellent DIY how to on the subject. I don't know if this something I'll have to undertake yet but I'll be sure to reference back to your post when I do.
Thanks. The hardest part is keeping from making a mess. Even the S/M comments about it several times. Got the T stat sealed up with some black RTV (forgot to grab some O ring material) and the engine started without too much of an issue. The pump did whine a bit and aerated the fluid on start up. Used almost the full quart but now it's a little over full. I'll let it settle overnight and see if it drops before draining a little off.
Final 'fix' for the year is to find a replacement for the door panel lamp on the drivers side. Turns out you can pop the lamp fixture out of the panel if you pry on it gently with a flat blade screw driver or better yet a borrowed butter knife. It took several trips to the part place to find a replacement lamp because it's not listed their system (Autozone). Turned out a Sylvania 6418 was correct. Others were too short or too long. Thanks to the cramped design of the housing I needed to use a pair of forceps to pop the lamp between the terminals.
It's kind of neat that the lens for the lamp is clear on the bottom to act like a puddle light and red on the face to warn oncoming traffic.
Got off early today, 58` out so the car got a bath. My Icarsoft LR2 showed up as well. It's OK but seems the B0001 airbag code I get doesn't come up for where to look, it's generic. Curse of DTC's is all makes use the same numbers so it's difficult to find Jaguar specific tests.
Truth in advertising, I haven't looked in the service manual yet.
Ah, X150 service manual references letter plus 6 numerical digits for troubleshooting. Argh...
Last edited by Ranchero50; 01-11-2018 at 05:06 PM.
So, been digging around using the S/M to diagnose the B0001 code. Everything related in the S/M points to the driver front air bag in the steering wheel. There are 2 firing circuits is it. Using the LR2 I was able to look at different live streams of the resistance readings. One is high than any other (4.5 ohms vs. 2.5 ohms). The LR2 doesn't designate which is which though. All of the readings change a little when the wheel is moved, even the ones for other channels that I don't 'think' are related so I don't know if it's an interface issue or what.
So using the wiring diagram I decided to try and read the resistance through the back wiring. That turned into a train wreck of trying to find the air bag module. In the end in the coupe it's tucked under a body colored flap of sheet metal under the back of the console. You can almost see it with the most of the console pulled apart and lifted up.
Assumption is I either have a corrosion problem creating excessive resistance or the air bag / clock spring is failing. Fortunately it's really warm out today so I'm not suffering too much doing the work but am about at the end of my sanity and pulling the cluster to install a little bit of black tape is looking better and better...
So, been digging around using the S/M to diagnose the B0001 code. Everything related in the S/M points to the driver front air bag in the steering wheel. There are 2 firing circuits is it. Using the LR2 I was able to look at different live streams of the resistance readings. One is high than any other (4.5 ohms vs. 2.5 ohms). The LR2 doesn't designate which is which though. All of the readings change a little when the wheel is moved, even the ones for other channels that I don't 'think' are related so I don't know if it's an interface issue or what.
So using the wiring diagram I decided to try and read the resistance through the back wiring. That turned into a train wreck of trying to find the air bag module. In the end in the coupe it's tucked under a body colored flap of sheet metal under the back of the console. You can almost see it with the most of the console pulled apart and lifted up.
Assumption is I either have a corrosion problem creating excessive resistance or the air bag / clock spring is failing. Fortunately it's really warm out today so I'm not suffering too much doing the work but am about at the end of my sanity and pulling the cluster to install a little bit of black tape is looking better and better...
Thanks. Honestly I'm disappointed in the LR2. It's like a Haynes manual, tells you almost enough to accomplish something. There's a Ford WDS for $350 with a Jaguar load that I've thought about but again, don't think it'll help much beyond nudging me in the right direction.
It's 68` out, should be 30` tomorrow and rain so I'm trying to accomplish something. Kind of bummed that I took it so far apart without being able to make it better. At the same time I fear if I go further I'll just make it worse.
12-15-2017, 10:20 AM
Back for more... Redneck PS flush and refill
