When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been watching this build for many months and think a few years.
My question is:
How much money and time have you put into this project?
Do you feel it was worth the time, energy expent and money?
Almost too little cash to mention. $10.5k to start, maybe $2500 more over several years. To be honest, I buy the absolute cheapest parts for it. Coils on eBay are $90 or so, headlight bulbs were $18 for the pair. MB aux water pump for the blower was $120, $30 for the bushing. That and new tires last year was the major expenses from '19 until now. Oil gets changed at 6k, never touched the air filters or anything in the tranny. Value? I'm up to almost 1/3 the price of a new 5.0 mustang but have something truly exotic as in unusual and way quicker than the 5.0 stangs.
The following 7 users liked this post by Ranchero50:
Boga (03-18-2021),guy (03-17-2021),kj07xk (03-18-2021),panthera999 (03-12-2023),ralphwg (03-17-2021),Stuart S (03-18-2021),tberg (03-17-2021) and 2 others liked this post. (Show less...)
This thread has been one of the most valuable and informative I’ve seen here. Ranchero50 is fearless which gave me the courage to do some things on my car that I never would have tried otherwise. Thanks!
Gentlemen, Thanks for the kind words. I try to post up stuff as encouragement that we simple folk can actually work on complex bit of kit and sometimes make cool things happen. This is a little Speedster project that I've been tinkering with the past 18 months or so. I bought a stock 1929 Ford Model A chassis that some dingdong stole the original body off of to build a street rod and started building this body out of aluminum. It's been a fun project, again because I can learn new skills and in the end have something cool, fun and unusual. Made the seat and covered it, made the dash, the exhaust and pretty much everything else. Stock was 40hp, but I plan on being closer to 120 once the engine is built and the Eaton blower is hanging off the side of it. As is, it's actually pretty darned quick and tops out over 55mph before my eyes water too much to go faster.
So, "annual" update time again I guess. The car has been doing remarkably well for the shape it was in when I got it. I did finally have to pull some much needed maintenance on it when one of the rear brake pads wore through. $250 through Autozone would get 2 rotors and pads but $190 through Rock Auto got that plus new air filters and hood lift shocks delivered almost quicker than Autozone... Which is good because I didn't have enough time to take my time (if that makes sense). Did run into a big old snag trying to get the wheel spacers off that required a torch on most of the nuts and one even required drilling with a 1/8" bit and splitting to get them freed up. 3/4" impact wouldn't turn them but did round them nicely. So no more spacers for now. Car stops much better and the braking shimmy that I thought was front end related went away with new parts on the rear, go figure. We're up to 165k miles, fuel economy was getting down below 18mpg (mostly 80+mph commuter) and I found two tires were below 25psi. Fresh air and clean air filters brought the mileage back up to mid 18's. Old air filters were over 23k miles (at least) and definitely needed replaced seeing how much harder the car pulls above 3000 rpm. Good times.
Gratuitous buggy picture below. One year later, this thing is hoot to drive and definitely gets second looks out on the roads.
So past 175k or so on the clock and I'm pretty sure my center carrier bearing is about to let loose. Trying to find someone who's replaced it or it's going to be creative machining time. Supposedly it's part of the driveshaft and not independently replaceable. Ideas?
I did do the water pump last month after swapping in good coolant. Was surprisingly easy working around the blower belt and removing only the wire clipped T-stat hose.
Well, quick jag parts search shows it C2P16566 so Google that brings up a pair of Pacific eBay auctions and for $66 I have a used one with 53k miles coming from Michigan, hopefully good...
It's been awhile since any updates. BUT, now is it getting better, or, disregarding the bearing, maintaining current condition? I haven't done anything to mine sans regular maintenance in a couple years.
As you’ve found, it’s a complete assembly only. You’re supposed to have the shaft with giubos/flexdiscs balanced when replacing. Which by the way you should do now also as they tend to fall apart after 10 years or so.
It's been awhile since any updates. BUT, now is it getting better, or, disregarding the bearing, maintaining current condition? I haven't done anything to mine sans regular maintenance in a couple years.
It has aged surprisingly well. Other than the cheap aftermarket paint job with the pealing clear coat it's been a joy to own. I just spray a can of 1k clear on it every six months or so. I was looking at getting a '16 Focus ST or maybe Escape with the 2.0l to replace it but my heart isn't in taking on another monthly payment.
Originally Posted by jahummer
As you’ve found, it’s a complete assembly only. You’re supposed to have the shaft with giubos/flexdiscs balanced when replacing. Which by the way you should do now also as they tend to fall apart after 10 years or so.
Yeah, but sadly thanks to Jaguars negligence the X150 is destined to obsolescence unless someone else comes up with an option. The S type and XF share for certain years but the '07-'09 XK are there own P/N.
................
Yeah, but sadly thanks to Jaguars negligence the X150 is destined to obsolescence unless someone else comes up with an option. The S type and XF share for certain years but the '07-'09 XK are there own P/N.
On the one hand, Jag has now discontinued the F-Type, so that leaves a void in the Performance Coupe area.
What will fill it?
Probably an electric. BUT, an electric with 800 HP would be kinda cool. Put that into a C-X75 and I'll buy those all day long.
Like a bad itch, this thread is back to the top again. For the record:
Once you get a "battery not charging" red warning on the dash you might make it 20 miles at night before the car goes haywire. As a research project I tried to get as close to home from work (25 miles) the other night before needing a battery swap rescue.
Alarms and results were in this order as functions failed;
BATTERY NOT CHARGING (RED)
CRUISE NOT AVAILABLE (YELLOW) pretty much as soon as I sped up to speed.
CATS FAILURE (YELLOW) 10 minutes at speed
DCS FAILURE (YELLOW) 12 minutes
Headlight steering failure ICON 13 minutes
Trans converter unlocked at 15 minutes so 3400rpm at 70
Lost overdrive lockup at 18 minutes so 3400 was around 65 or so
Windshield wipers came on in Auto
Headlights started flashing on and off at 20 minutes and the interior light were getting dim so I dipped off the interstate
Of course when I stopped the fan was running wide open killing the battery faster than needed (CAN bus failed)
Engine didn't want to turn off from the start stop button until I held it for 20+ seconds.
Waited 20 minutes for the oldest kid to bring a partially charged battery and a pair of NOKO boost boxes.
Made it 10 miles closer to home before that setup died. Pulled the main battery and charged it overnight while to car waited at a gas station (with permission)
Next morning the car powered up and came home.
Currently down in the shop waiting for me to pull the alternator. Not impressed with the remove RH motor mount part of the service instructions...
When I got to work that morning there was a new moan from underneath but I assumed wrongly that it was the fuel pump (needed fuel and we were sitting on a hill).
Are you familiar with the "Cycle Kart" racers? If I had more room and time I'd be into them..... https://www.cyclekarts.com
Yeah, I follow a couple groups on Facebook with them although I want something a little more substantial versus the average housewife / SUV combo. At least with the A I can look most in the eye and down on the little ones. I'm also building a '23 T version this year. It's lighter duty and more primitive. Should be an interesting project.
03-17-2021, 07:24 PM
… mums the word …
