Has anyone tried the “Hard Reset” procedure? IE, disconnecting both terminals then placing Negative cable on positive terminal? Sounds very risky to me??

 

Probably everyone in here has done this at least once. It's a Jaguar Suggested Procedure.

 

Yep as Cee Jay says, it's a common practice and recommended by Jaguar under certain conditions. No need to worry as this is what it does. A ‘hard reset’ restores the control modules to their base conditions assuring that network communications are synchronized.NOTE: A hard reset does not repair a fault condition. It simply brings all control modules back to their baseline condition. If a hard reset eliminates the symptoms, then further diagnosis is needed to determine the cause of the conditions, i.e. low battery causing a single control mod- ule to come off line temporarily.

 

You have this very wrong! You can do a hard reset one of three ways.
1) Using Jaguar approved software
2) X150 Vehicles

• Due to the window drop entry feature, the following procedure should be followed to prevent door seal damage.
• Open one window fully or open a door
• Disconnect the negative cable of the battery for at least 120 seconds
• Reconnect the battery negative cable
  

Reset the window position memory for the passenger and driver door windows

3) Same as 2 above except remove both Negative and Positive cables from the battery and touch the cables together. Do NOT touch your negative cable to the positive post of your battery.

 

Also for clarification, this is a "soft" reset, good for anomalies and glitches, it doesn't provide module specific "hard" resets exclusive to JLR's proprietary SDD diagnostics software.

 

YES - as stated above, most of us will have done this at some time.

However, WHY do you want to do this and WHAT do you hope to achieve? It will eliminate all 'learned' settings and reset them to default by discharging the capacitors BUT it will not magically clear troublesome error codes.

Graham

 

Also clears the things needed by many regions for "smog" testing i.e. will fail smog until the various things (*) re-set (as in: set again).

(*) OBD monitors

 

Yep, and the EVAP part may take up to 200 miles to reset. Lucky for me, Utah allows one "Not Ready" to pass inspection.

 

The reset question was mostly out of curiosity. My current issue is still with the convertible roof. I'm able to clear the "front latch" error msg however, when closing the roof automatically, it reaches the front latches then starts to click continuously as if the cable is jammed somewhere and slipping < this is my best guess> . Does anyone have experience with this sort of situation?

 

think you'd get a better response if you started a new thread with a better title as this one doesn't apply.

 

Oops posted in the wrong place

 

I still have bad memories about this. My X308 4.0 had a bad lambda sensor. I replaced it - having disconnected the battery - and then presented it for MOT, which it failed on emissions of course. But I'd got myself into that position where the tax disc ran out at the same time as the MOT so I couldn't renew the tax. So I had to drive it untaxed to get the engine management to re-learn. I went to a studio to do a day's work. While I was there the car was clamped for having no tax. I had to hang around for several hours and then pay several hundred quid to get it unclamped and the fine paid so I could drive it home again. It passed emissions the next day though. I learned to never have tax and MOT expire at the same time...

 

Beats me about UK, but here a 14-day temporary tag can be had for like six bucks.

 

I’m never leaving Columbus Ohio… we never need to do MOTS… E V E R…

 

Perhaps the reason why there are so many unworthy and unsafe cars on the road??

 

We don't have anything remotely like that here, sadly. Just tough laws and harsh fines.