I am getting the P0430 code "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2". I can't pass smog unless the car stops throwing that code. The local shop wants $1400 to replace the one catalytic converter. I can get one on RockAuto for $300.

It's fairly easy to replace mufflers on old cars. Is there any trick to replacing a catalytic converter on a 2007 XKR? I don't have welding equipment and thought I might just be able to bolt one on.

All help is appreciated.

BIff

 

You won't need welding equipment but you will need penetrating fluid and a profanity filter - the studs and the HO2S can get very tight after a few years in service.

I haven't replaced many Jaguar catalysts but have learned it's worth the cost to buy new studs, nuts and clamps (items 2, 3 and 7)





You will certainly save a lot by DIY but be a little cautious about very low cost replacements. There's some dubious aftermarket reproductions around.

Graham

 

As Graham said plenty of penetration spray , extension bars and deep socket 15mm .

If doing the job on the ground you'll most likely need to break the system down first to reduce the weight (rear box & mid-pipes removal ) then get cracking on the down pipes.

Before fully installing the down pipes don't tighten completely leave some movement for the mid pipes to go back on once on go for it

 

You didn't indicate your level of expertise. It's not a difficult job, but tight quarters and depending on mileage, O2s could be a challenge to remove intact. If you've no lift, not terribly pleasant either. As Steve said, start with removing the full exhaust first. And as Graham said, have some extra hardware handy.

BUT the largest issue I see is if you're indeed located in California, Rock and everyone else states NOT FOR SALE AND NO SHIPPING in 4 states including yours...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Y7WEGNRQ%3D%3D

 

Hey Biff,
The v similar X356 (~ '07) XJR is also prone to P0430.
While the cause may indeed be a bad cat (or two), first make sure that your fuel trims are very close to zero. A small vacuum leak can cause this fault code, and expensive new cats won't fix it.
Good shop with SDD and smoke machine can sleuth out the leaks. On the XJR, typical culprits are dipstick O ring, PCV O rings, loose throttle body vacuum bushing. Fixing any of these is cheap.
Even when leak free, the SC motors seem apt to occasionally throw this code. May be due to gunky intercoolers pooling fuel? I stopped mine from nuisance codes by putting O2 sensor extenders in.
(Hope this helps!)

 

My current cats are davico 200 cell. They are not the same quality as the originals. They have lasted 5 years and I’m thinking of replacing them this year. You will need bungs for the downstream O2 sensors or will keep throwing codes. Also, I had to mildly bend the pipes to fit as the originals. They make the exhaust sound more “throaty”, louder and “growl” better when the engine is revved.

 

Thank you very much for all of the responses.

I do not have a lift so jack stands it is. That does make everything harder.

I did hear about the California requirement from a friend as well. Retail for the California part is $1850.

Regarding level of expertise, I've done everything but tear apart gear boxes (transmission and differential). I've replaced them but not rebuilt them. I assumed that removing the exhaust bolts would be the big headache.

I read in another article on this forum that it is worth trying catalytic converter cleaner so I bought some today (Cataclean, $27). The guy at O'Reilly's said it is pretty effective. Fingers crossed but I don't have high hopes. I'll reply here to let everyone know if it worked or not. If not, I may try hisport's suggestions.

Biff

 

That may have been me.
The Cat Cleaner I used lasted over two years, and then I got the light back a few days ago. I checked Torque and the value should be 15 volts or less, and mine is at 15.32 volts. I'm pretty sure another dose and it'll clear up again for at least awhile.

 

Removing anything associated with exhaust systems often requires the use of one of more of these three workshop tools: impact wrench, gas torch and angle grinder. If you have all three, then so much the better.

Richard

 

And, ahhhh...a BFH

...(soft face dead blow works well. Also, plan on new clamps, seal rings, gaskets, plus a tube of ex sealer for the slip joints. Best to begin at rear of car and work forward, I find...)

 

The fitment for the epa cats vs the carb cats is the same physically. CA just has an extra ingredient that does nothing and is BS. If you have a friend in a different state have them buy the cats and then ship on to you. CA smog will never know the difference

 

I wish that was the case. There is a stamp in the metal on California catalytic converters that the smog people check for. I have always seen them run a mirror on a long extension under the car to check for the stamp.

 

Another reason to not move to CA.

 

my car is too low for that method. Never seen it done in 5 years. Go to the same place. He knows my car and even tells me what his visual is

 

Guy, how did you find out the cell count on the Davico Cats? All the sellers I have tried to work with don't have a clue and only seem interested in moving the cash from my hand to theirs.

 

I wrote Davico Manufacturing, directly. And they replied promptly.

 

I bought a(nother) bottle of CataClean today, $23 at O'Reilley.
I'll give it a couple days then recheck the voltage on Torque, then maybe reset the code. It worked four years ago, I don't know why it wouldn't this time.

 

You’ve inspired me. I finally read https://cataclean.com/how-it-works/
I’ll give it a go.
Wondering out loud…. do you notice a dirtier exhaust while its being burnt through?

 

I haven't noticed anything, but that doesn't mean there isn't something weird.

 

thanks. Just put a bottle in with a fresh tank of fuel… I was only throwing the code if I tromped on it. It would clear on its own in about 3 days. On the next tank we’ll see what happens during the Italian tune up.