Following the directions on the bottle of CataClean:
Put contents into 1/4 tank of fuel (3 gallons). Drive 10-15 miles and then fill the tank. Repeat as necessary.

 

Yeah, but I chose this one.

 

I tried Cataclean, followed the directions and ran through a tank of gas. The car is still throwing the same code. My expectations were not high but my hopes may have been. I think it was worth a try.

Biff

 

‘SATISFACTION GUARANTEED’, so if your codes don’t clear, they’ll refund your purchase?
There must be some fine print somewhere detailing that (e.g. ‘you bought our product, we’re satisfied’ ).

 

Okay then, that looks familiar. I do believe I first used the DuraLube brand which I had good luck with. I bought the CataClean because it was the only thing at the O'Reilley's I went to.

 

Should have tried , about 1 minute in

 

Having recently gone thought this

from a reputable exhaust shop - fix the cause before you replace the converter.
also get the converter from the dealer as many after markets do not work as expected.

my car 2007 XKR super charged had timing issues that required replacing timing components to fix what damaged the cats in the first place.

replacing was easy slip clamp O2 sensor socket and studs. Took an hour - biggest issue is getting car high enough off the ground to drop cat out the bottom.

good luck.

 

When you say timing issues are you taking about replacement of your chains, guides and tensioners or was it actuators on the vvt cams

 

Or was it…. adjust the distributor,

In other news, well I’ll be…. Thanks for sharing your success on the cat clean option @Cee Jay .
Not only can I now punch it without throwing a code. ( using the 91 octane that the duralube was added to )
But I can also run the 94 octane! (tank filled from 1/8 tank). I haven’t been able to do that since the cats were new.
Frankly, I was not expecting that.

 

replaced both VVTs and Tensioners.
The even side had exhaust and intake cams out of time how I do not know but that was my issue. vvt Solenoids can get clogged too so recommend starting there and check.

best…

 

That's a big job entire front of engine strip down and timing cover off .

 

it was - took 2 weekends one weekend to remove and another to clean repair and put back together.- getting the parts was the longest delay. VVT were $1300 each catalytic converter was $2500 the rest were dollars by comparison. I have videos of everything including the profanity ...
All I had was the service maintenance DVD, the JLR SDD software and a used $250.00 laptop
had to get a 300ft-lb torque wrench for the crank bolt and ALL new bolts from dealership who I have to say were MOST Helpful and were impressed by the car.
after all that the car drives like a dream also fixed the A/C drain issue.
Now actual time was 3-4 months because the VVTs were back ordered, the catalytic converter took 3 months to come in only 2 in the world Canada and UK - I called Magnaflow and they only service the V6 and the non supercharge JAG XK. The super charge V8 is not Supported by Borla, Magnaflow, Flowmaster or anyone for the supercharged Jaguar XKR.
I found a guy on Ebay that sells the blue tooth modules for the early XKRs 2007 and 2008 to connect Bluetooth for audio playback that also does custom tuning of Jaguars he helped reset the programming on the ECM someone removed the safety table. Before repairs the engine revved to 6500 RPM in PARK THAT IS WRONG should not exceed 3500 RPM in PARK .
The car was owned by a professional Athlete is all I can surmise before it was lost in used car auctions for 3 years before a friend of a friend got it and could not fix it.
So because of the history the car had 6 owners 3 auctions and some title discrepancies that are inaccurate, it is low on resell value so I will most likely enjoy it until the wheels fall off.

I know probably more than you wanted to know, all that is to say this - frequent oil changes (Synthetic) / Premium gas only / engine flush when/if driven hard / VVT solenoids may fix most lean, misfire and timing issues. Do not be afraid to add half to a full quart of dextron III transmission fluid to the engine before every 4th oil change it removes carbon build up - just idle it hot no driving.
change oil hot.
The cars are really built well - even after all this car has been through it purrs and is glass smooth to drive.

 

Vvt solinoids are the same on the entire 4.2 range including Aston Martin 4.3/4.7 along with timing chains, guides , tensioners but well done it's a bigger job then the 4.0 V8 as the accessories (P/S & a/C compressor stay attached to block on 4.0)

Well played !!

 

Update. I tried Cataclean and it didn't work as I previously mentioned. I then tried another cleaner that guaranteed that it would make the car pass smog. It also did not work. I assumed both would not work but my curiosity got the better of me. I think these kinds of cleaners are a long shot at best.

The replacement catalytic converter is $318 for every state but California. The replacement catalytic converter for California is $1418. That's just the part. A local shop replaced it for me for $1400 including installation. That made the code go away and stay away and it then passed smog.

I never tried looking for vacuum leaks or the other things recommended by "hisport". They sounded like good ideas but I wasn't feeling lucky. As my car now passed smog, I am guessing it wasn't any of those other issues.

Thanks once again for all of the really great help.

Biff

 

Having recently been through this.

Just my 2-cants.
Cats don’t go bad unless there is engine issues
questions :
are there any noises on a cold start?
does the engine idle smooth or fluctuate rpm up and down at idle +/-10 rpm
maintain a speed 35-40 mph any surging car seems to speed up then slow a little on its own?
milage should be 18 - 20 mpg between city and highway. Is it?

Sorry do not trust replacing cat fixed it just solved the symptom of a deeper issue.

Many thing can cause this.
bad timing
bad O 2 sensors from too much carbon
bad or dirty injector too much fuel or too little fuel = carbon or excessive heat
your cat will go bad in 6 months again.
take it in snd have engine diagnostics done.
I would have. Jag service at least check the codes and history for peace of mind.

 

hmmm. a couple of points. there’s no such thing as an 07xkr-s. Partly true on the cats…. unless you enjoy a rev’em’up at the Cdn F1 party and smell the baking.
Once baked, no cat clean option will work. its replacement time. I know.

And with the number of miles I have on her, she runs flawlessly.

 

The car currently has around 109k miles on it. The code was probably first seen around 100k miles. I am guessing that a cat going out at 100k miles might not be that uncommon.

The car runs strong, both before and after the cat replacement. There are no noises on a cold start. It starts easily, every time. It idles smoothly, always. No surging. I don't think I ever got 18 - 20 mpg. I didn't see a difference in performance or anything else after the cat was replaced, but having the car checked out sounds like a good idea.

I do notice one issue that I was going to raise on a separate post. It happened long before the cat replacement and I assume it will still happen after but I haven't tested it. When I make a hard turn at some speed and punch the gas pedal as I start coming out of the turn, it lugs. I want to power out of the turn but it bogs down a little. It is not like the car is about to stall but it does prevent powering out of a turn. It reminds me of older carbureted engines where the gas moves to the side of the float bowl which starves the engine. I assume that isn't supposed to happen with fuel injection. This only happens under "spirited" driving conditions, not at normal speeds. And it only happens in a hard turn. Full out acceleration in a straight line has no issues.

Any ideas?

Biff

 

Yes, likely stability control kicking in.

 

While cat media does not necessarily 'go bad' with a clean engine, sometimes the media starts to flake and the minute particles can clog some of the tiny passages, making hot spots. Enough of those and you can get Cat Efficiency codes.

Oh the OTHER hand, a few tanks of 'bad gas' can get particulates which burn poorly and those can cause a bit of deposits onto the cat media.
No engine is always 100% clean. Get a bad MAF sensor, an excessive vacuum leak.... all sorts of things can dump crap down the exhaust.