High Mileage XKR-S
#1
High Mileage XKR-S
Any opinions on the pros & cons of buying a high mileage XKR-S?
http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Jaguar/XK...orup=18_100_64
http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Jaguar/XK...orup=18_100_64
#3
There is nothing wrong with the mileage, but the higher the mileage the more maintenance may be required if not already completed and should be factored into the cost. You may find a lower mileage example for a little more initial cost but may require fewer repairs. Really the history of the car equates to which would be the better deal.
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JagRag (07-15-2017)
#4
#5
The KBB price is USD. If the $50K is CAD the price is probably OK.
Most important, to me anyway, is the condition. The ad makes no mention of the condition and there are no decent pictures. This would lead me to suspect that it is not good. I have seldom been positively surprised at the condition of a used car I have looked at.
I would be concerned that a car like that (550 HP XKR-S) has been driven HARD for 100,000 miles. I thrashed the XJR that I had. (So did my normally mild mannered wife as well.) Who has not romped on their R more than once? I doubt a little old lady just drove it to church on Sundays.
It depends what you want to do with the car and if you are doing the maintenance yourself or paying someone else to do it. It probably needs now, or soon will, all new suspension components. If you can replace those parts yourself the cost is not that bad. If you are looking for a nice everyday driver, I would not touch it. If you want a kind of rare Jag to add to your collection, it might be a cheap addition. Remember that when you want to sell it the mileage is going to be a big negative.
Most important, to me anyway, is the condition. The ad makes no mention of the condition and there are no decent pictures. This would lead me to suspect that it is not good. I have seldom been positively surprised at the condition of a used car I have looked at.
I would be concerned that a car like that (550 HP XKR-S) has been driven HARD for 100,000 miles. I thrashed the XJR that I had. (So did my normally mild mannered wife as well.) Who has not romped on their R more than once? I doubt a little old lady just drove it to church on Sundays.
It depends what you want to do with the car and if you are doing the maintenance yourself or paying someone else to do it. It probably needs now, or soon will, all new suspension components. If you can replace those parts yourself the cost is not that bad. If you are looking for a nice everyday driver, I would not touch it. If you want a kind of rare Jag to add to your collection, it might be a cheap addition. Remember that when you want to sell it the mileage is going to be a big negative.
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JagRag (07-15-2017)
#6
Most important, to me anyway, is the condition. The ad makes no mention of the condition and there are no decent pictures. This would lead me to suspect that it is not good. I have seldom been positively surprised at the condition of a used car I have looked at.
I would be concerned that a car like that (550 HP XKR-S) has been driven HARD for 100,000 miles.
I would be concerned that a car like that (550 HP XKR-S) has been driven HARD for 100,000 miles.
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JagRag (07-15-2017)
#7
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JagRag (07-16-2017)
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#8
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#13
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JagRag (07-17-2017)
#14
#15
Burned oil on valves and seats (DI engine) reduces sealing = loss of compression.
Supercharge wear = loss of boost
Contaminated cats = increased exhaust resistance
Timing chain stretch = loss of engine efficiency
etc., etc.
Years ago a friend of mine raced showroom stock cars with Toyota as a sponsor. They gave him a new Supra and free run of their parts depot to cheery pick parts for the engine. They dyno's the motor when it came out of the car and after the rebuild. He picked up almost 10% more HP after the rebuild on a NEW motor. From that I find it reasonable that a well used motor could just as easily loose 10%
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JagRag (07-17-2017)
#16
Cumulatively, its the buildup of varnish from gas, sludge from oil, scale from water, carbon from combustion. Then in DI you have soot.
Remember that Audi with 40k miles that had the carbon buildup, they only find that out when its lost like 30% of its power to the point where it wont idle.
The underlying cause is that you are effectively changing tolerances and dimensions through out the engine. The timing chain will have elongated outside compensation.
Now tell me how the heck do you put 100k miles on an exotic car in the artic circle with only one highway.
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JagRag (07-17-2017)
#17
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#18
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JagRag (07-17-2017)
#19
If anyone cares, here's MY Mantra on high mileage cars...
If you will drive it a lot, get a low mileage used car, you will get a lot of miles out of it for that higher initial price.
If you will drive only occasionally, a higher mileage car will be fine, you still won't have a lot of miles later on, and it will be cheaper at purchase time.
ALSO, if an XK of any trim has a lot of miles on it, evidently it has NOT been undependable or it wouldn't have been driven so much.
If you will drive it a lot, get a low mileage used car, you will get a lot of miles out of it for that higher initial price.
If you will drive only occasionally, a higher mileage car will be fine, you still won't have a lot of miles later on, and it will be cheaper at purchase time.
ALSO, if an XK of any trim has a lot of miles on it, evidently it has NOT been undependable or it wouldn't have been driven so much.
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JagRag (07-17-2017)
#20
Wear must be catastrophic to cost you engine power. You will have notable blow-by and visible exhaust signs before then.
This should be covered by 'don't buy a used car with blown engine' checkbox.
Mechanism is slightly different - sludge will restrict intake, not reduce compression. So this is quite possibly be the case. However, wallnut blasting is about $1,000 at most. If it isn't far-gone, you might get away with intake cleaning.
I am not aware of such thing. SC fails catastrophically, not gradually.
If you car is burning oil, it is possible that catalytic converters overheat and plug. This is very noticeable, and you will even get dash warning and codes prior to this actually happening. This can be gradual process.
Not on a modern engine with adjustable timing. This was the case on old (80s and before) engines. Plus, are you sure XKs are prone to chain stretch? Not all cars do this.
That is, if the car is in a good working condition and everything works you can expect to hit the same numbers as when new. High miles doesn't necessary correspond to more problems. This is because bathtub curve is flat in the middle.
This should be covered by 'don't buy a used car with blown engine' checkbox.
I am not aware of such thing. SC fails catastrophically, not gradually.
If you car is burning oil, it is possible that catalytic converters overheat and plug. This is very noticeable, and you will even get dash warning and codes prior to this actually happening. This can be gradual process.
Not on a modern engine with adjustable timing. This was the case on old (80s and before) engines. Plus, are you sure XKs are prone to chain stretch? Not all cars do this.
That is, if the car is in a good working condition and everything works you can expect to hit the same numbers as when new. High miles doesn't necessary correspond to more problems. This is because bathtub curve is flat in the middle.
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JagRag (07-17-2017)