Yeah, last I checked the local Chevron won't sell you any fuel if they don't have the electricity going. A person could always go Anarchist and hand-pump fuel out of the in-ground tanks, but that wouldn't work very well, especially in Texas.
The whole entire shebang is one big spiderweb of interacting everything.

 

I had no idea, but this makes sense. It's only useful for me on the highway, doesn't work well at lower speeds. Problem is,for CA at least,it doesn't follow the car in front quite closely enough (and yes I know how to vary that, and I'm always set on the closest follow distance possible). It's just far enough that even slightly aggressive drivers will cut between you and the car in front of you.
Nonetheless, I love it. Indespensible on X-country drives. Can go for over an hour without touching either gas or brake pedal. (Also you get pretty quick on the Speed Set wheel and can click that thing pretty quickly to slow the car down for 5-0 without touching the brake...)

 

One other thing:
Speaking of time on the dealer lot, the website and app CarGurus has a "Days on Market" feature, and as far as I can tell they're the only site that has that. They also have a "price history" feature.
Interesting: all real estate websites offer this info--why not Autotrader, etc?

 

I got my 17 XF diesel for $7k less than their initial ask. It was a base model car and was on their lot for 200 days. Ironically I ended up getting it for less than my initial offer. The salesperson kept refusing my offers saying they would never accept that, only to have management lower the price multiple times. Gotta be willing to walk away and potentially lose it though. Diesel XF is alot easier to walk away from than an XK, for me at least. Good luck

 

I can tell you of my experience. In 2011 I bought a pristine black 2008 XK with 24k miles from a dealer on Long Island, NY with Select Edition warranty. I paid $47,500 when brand new they were close to $90K. I thought I got a great deal.

 

I got my 2010 XKR Convertible with ..... 46k? .... in 2014 as an off-lease CPO and I paid $35k when the original MSRP was $114,000. The car was in Texas, so maybe that helped me on the price.

 

I have a 2010 XK and the "Base" model is a misnomer because essentially everything was standard on the car. Just some accessories from the dealer could be purchased. These are rare cars as they got older because you sell less of a model for every year it ages and 2015 was the last year. The Coupes are much more rare than convertibles. By 2015, the only real demand was the XKR or a special version of it. Relative to you pricing inquiry, he really doesn't have to budge much as they are rare, however, the bank (assuming a loan here) will only finance so much. Additionally, there's a used car shortage that will continue until after the Pandemic ends and people drive more and find employment. I think a fair price in this market place would be to split the $3k difference with him, but I'd ask for asking for $2k and come down to $1,500. If your going to give him the loan and buy GAP or a warranty, he still wins big. BTW tried to find a comparison car online to gauge value of my '10 Coupe and there was not a comparable one in the country for sale! Hope this helps...

 

As a former dealership sales manager and also a pricing analyst for the manufacturers I can tell you with 100% certainty that it is impossible to answer your question as posed. The reason is that there are two extremes in how dealers "list" the price of their USED vehicles. One philosophy is to start with a price well above market value so the dealership has the ability to offer a large discount from the asking price to give the illusion of "a deal." Other dealers use something akin to the "one price" philosophy that is just the opposite. They list the price at an extremely competitive price to accomplish two goals: 1) to have their vehicle appear more attractive when viewed against a string of similar vehicles in an online search, and 2) to create credibility and stability by being able to say that there are no games - the price you see is the price that everyone gets.

In my too many years of doing this analysis for manufacturers my mantra is that the consumer says, "I just want to get a fair deal." The manufacturer or dealer believes this is defined as the "average price that everyone pays." The reality is that my research shows that to the consumer, a "fair deal" is defined as a price that no one else pays less than. But, I digress.

To answer your question I would suggest doing the usual online searches on Autotrader.com, Cars.com, CarGurus.com and create a list of this car with miles that are within 10K in either direction of yours. Then exclude any salvage titles or any other deals that look funky. This will show vehicles falling into both pricing philosophies. If you have more than a dozen vehicles showing, the two or three at the bottom end of the price spectrum are probably close to a good deal (i.e.; dealers who are advertising aggressive prices). You might then decide to offer 5% lower than this low subset of prices to the dealer selling yours. If the dealer who has yours is using the "start high and bargain" philosophy it is very possible that using the method I just outlined will be a good 20% less than the dealer's asking price.

One last note, don't be fooled by KBB prices online. These prices are artificially inflated to be too high in order to make a dealer prices look attractive (and also to assist the ability to finance a car via an inflated book to value ratio), but again I digress. Good luck.

 

When I bought mine five and a half years ago I was looking to lower my stress in life.
You've brought up one of the aspects that steered to me this model.
I could pick any car from just looking at the color in the thumbnail and find what I wanted.
No going through the add looking through an options list to see if it had what I wanted.

CFD, thanks for that right up.

 

Can you tell me where the vehicle is located and the VIN? I can look up the vehicle in greater detail.

 

Are you already dealing with a salesperson?

If you are working with a salesperson from off the floor, keep in mind that it's within' their best interest, usually, to sell you the car for the highest possible price you're willing to pay. It's not uncommon for a salesperson to get paid a commission based upon the "gross" profit. The "gross" is the amount of money above what the dealership paid for the vehicle. If they bought it for $10,000 and they sell it to you for $14,000, the "gross" is $4000. The sales person is paid a commission based off the $4000. It's usually 25% = $1000 commission. Back in the day, we used to call those deals a 4-pounder, but 4-pounders were fairly rare.

Some dealerships however, have moved away from this method of paying a salesperson. Instead of paying off gross, they pay them a salary and bonus's based upon volume.

That being said, you will usually get the best pricing if you are working with a salesperson from the dealership Internet Department.

The sales people in the Internet Department are almost always paid on volume of sales rather than gross. The Internet Department is more likely to drop the price right away just to get rid of the unit.

If you are already working with a salesperson off the floor, you will not be able to move the deal over to the internet department. They don't flip deals over like that.

Since you think their pricing if off by about $3000, I would offer them an out-the-door price that's $4000 below their asking price. They're not gonna like this, because you're asking the dealership to swallow the tax.

Still, it's a good starting place for negotiations and it's unlikely they have more than $3000 gross in their asking price.

 

I always say I will pay XXXXXX and they always say NO.
I get up and say to my wife we are done and walk out. I have never got to my car before they have agreed , REMEMBER YOU ARE IN CHARGE.

 

That was my first thought when I read the "breakdown in the electric grid" argument. You can't get gas also! But at least you can stockpile gas cans to get you X number of miles out of town, something not feasible with electric cars. But from a standpoint of grid stability gas is about as problematic. Being a Florida native, which is a rarity, I have been through numerous hurricane events. Hurricane Charley cranked through the center of the state in 2004 causing massive disruptions to the power infrastructure. For a short but painful period it was also hard to get gas as (like you mention) stations did not have power, but also the bulk delivery of petrol was difficult. Between inability to get it into certain areas due to road debris then the added component of downed lines it was brutal to get petrol. Also everyone was loading up at the few stations that were up and running to feed their generators. It create a massive breakdown in the supply chain for petrol. Not much different then what you see in Texas for electricity.

Unexpected natural events cause unexpected consequences.

Agreed, so much easier, navigating other used cars is a pain when you have to evaluate this package vs this option vs this standard build.

 

This is easy when you're dealing with Generic Crossover for the Wife.

This is a lot harder when dealing with an XKR, or a Bentley in that perfect color combination, or the exact trans/engine combo you want in your Maserati.

 

Buy yourself a bunch of solar panels and a battery backup unit. A big one. Plus a gas/diesel generator. That way you can get a decent charge at night and a full charge during daylight. I'd do exactly this for the Zombie Apocalypse.
Stick some RV solar panels in the back of your Mach E, have an available source nearly everywhere. Hellz, mount them on the roof and drive all day for zero battery drain (almost).

 

I bought my 2013 XK Portfolio Package with 30K for $29,500. They were asking $31,000. I called from the interstate on my way to buy a 2010 Xk for $26k in Ft Lauderdale that had 33k on it. I said I’d stop and come see this one in Palm Bay If they would come down some. They came down to $30,200 on the phone. So I agreed to come look. Boy was I glad I did! It was 3 years newer, Crystal Blue instead of Black and a Portfolio Package to top it off. I new as soon as I saw it it was a much better car! I drove it we haggled a little more and he said if I bought the 3 year warranty (35000 miles three years bumper to bumper) for 3k he would agree. He also said they were offering the warranty for $2500 that week. I said come down to $29,500 and it’s sold. He fought it but finally agreed to $29500 if I took an extra year and 10k more mileage for the 500 back! So I did walked out at $29,500 with 4 year warranty 45000 mile warranty for 3000 more. I think I did ok. Spent a little more but got peace of mind cause my first Jag and they are expensive to fix!

 

This one was acquired by the dealer back in December. CARFAX looks good. 1 owner. Asking $32,500. Need it to be no more than $29k total for me to afford it. Not likely, but you miss 100% of the shots you don't take.

 

Congrats on your new ride! Crystal Blue is a rare color!

I hope you never have to make a claim against your 4-year, 45,000 mile, bumper-to-bumper "warranty" that cost you $3,000. If that "warranty" helps you to sleep better at night, then it's money well spent. Unless those pleasant dreams turn into a nightmare.

How could that happen? Read my Post #6 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rranty-244182/

The road of life is short, so enjoy the ride before you reach the end of the road! What does this picture tell you about my cardiologist's sense of humor? It was on the wall directly in front of the treadmill in his office. You can't see the end of the road, so enjoy today as it may be your last.

 

You have the power until you have to have "this car". If you are specific, you very likely may pay more. Same with the rule of not falling in love with a car.

I tend to have a list of hard NOPES. No yellow cars; no weird ketchup and mustard level interior/exterior combos; etc. I actually select a few makes and models, learn them up, and have them on my radar for when a solid deal comes up; currently its the early Bentley Continental GT, early Aston Martin DB9, and early Maserati Granturismo. I know the problem areas, difficulty of maintenance/repairs. going prices for parts, costs of service tools, going prices for cars, etc.

I know I'd prefer a combo like Gray over black guts or Black/Black; but will do a tan interior, dark blue exteriors, will buy with stock but ugly black wheels (I can get those redone reasonably); take mild mods like exhausts, etc. I won't do wrapped cars, salvage, highly modded, etc. This all still has a lot of cars on the market that I can pick from.

 

I have been searching for a xkr for several years. The problem I have is usually the car is out of state. I would have to fly out there to see the car, have the PPI done at a Jag dealership, buy the car, ship it home, then fly back home. I really don't want to drop a couple of grand to do this but I don't trust car dealers or dealerships. The xkr I had been looking at had a finder bender. I ask for the info at the body shop. Turns out it had been side swiped and the repair bill was $21K.So I had to let it go. The second car I was talking to a Jaguar dealership. We are talking on the phone and they came off the price $500 if I would buy it today. They were a Jaguar dealership but I still wanted a PPI from someone else. I was reassured that it was checked over but I still did not trust them. I guess I put car salesmen next to lawyers. They all pass lying 101 in college the first semester. By the time I got back with the dealership the car was sold. Any help would be appreciated on buying a out of state car on the steps to take when buying.

JDog