How to Torque Suspension with the Weight on the Car?
#1
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My first ever suspension work is replacing the front struts on my 07 XKR. Going to replace those nasty shredded boots too.
Now the Jaguar service manual says CAUTION: Nuts and bolts must be tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.
How is this possible? I have 4 post lifts so getting under the car isn't an issue, but there's no way my torque wrench would be able to reach some of these bolts with the wheel on.
Now the Jaguar service manual says CAUTION: Nuts and bolts must be tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.
How is this possible? I have 4 post lifts so getting under the car isn't an issue, but there's no way my torque wrench would be able to reach some of these bolts with the wheel on.
Last edited by GGG; 09-19-2021 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Edit typo in thread title
#2
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Don’t know what the clearance issue is that you have, but sometimes you’ve got to get a bit creative, like use a claw-foot instead of a socket on the torque wrench, or stick the handle of the torque in a pipe to give extra length. Would using the spare tire instead of the regular tire give you more room? Don’t think I’d lift by the rotor, but under the knuckle instead. If a bottle jack will fit, go for it. Or just partially tighten stuff, come down off the 4 poster and use your floor jack (not sure if with the bottle jack or floor jack you can get correct ride height though).
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jons (09-19-2021)
#5
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#7
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Lose the lift and use jack stands on the front end, then pull the wheel. Then use the dolly to lift under the ball joint. Should be 15 1/2 inches from the top of the wheel arch to the center of the hub. Other choice is to have the tech torque it when you take it for an alignment check, but the torque must be done with the correct wheel height. I asked the tech to check mine last alignment check and he did them all at no cost. I gave him the specs and watched him double check me.
A note on crows feet on a torque wrench or any extension - Torque wrenches are calibrated using the center of the drive 3/8 or 1/2 inch to the center of the handle grip. Adding a cheater bar, though helpful, changes the torque spec. Same thing happens when you add a wobbly head or anything that gets the head beyond center point. So if using a crows foot, torque will be correct @ 90 degrees but will change as the wrench rotates. This probably explains it better than I am:
A note on crows feet on a torque wrench or any extension - Torque wrenches are calibrated using the center of the drive 3/8 or 1/2 inch to the center of the handle grip. Adding a cheater bar, though helpful, changes the torque spec. Same thing happens when you add a wobbly head or anything that gets the head beyond center point. So if using a crows foot, torque will be correct @ 90 degrees but will change as the wrench rotates. This probably explains it better than I am:
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kj07xk (09-19-2021)
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#9
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Lose the lift and use jack stands on the front end, then pull the wheel. Then use the dolly to lift under the ball joint. Should be 15 1/2 inches from the top of the wheel arch to the center of the hub. Other choice is to have the tech torque it when you take it for an alignment check, but the torque must be done with the correct wheel height. I asked the tech to check mine last alignment check and he did them all at no cost. I gave him the specs and watched him double check me.
A note on crows feet on a torque wrench or any extension - Torque wrenches are calibrated using the center of the drive 3/8 or 1/2 inch to the center of the handle grip. Adding a cheater bar, though helpful, changes the torque spec. Same thing happens when you add a wobbly head or anything that gets the head beyond center point. So if using a crows foot, torque will be correct @ 90 degrees but will change as the wrench rotates. This probably explains it better than I am:
A note on crows feet on a torque wrench or any extension - Torque wrenches are calibrated using the center of the drive 3/8 or 1/2 inch to the center of the handle grip. Adding a cheater bar, though helpful, changes the torque spec. Same thing happens when you add a wobbly head or anything that gets the head beyond center point. So if using a crows foot, torque will be correct @ 90 degrees but will change as the wrench rotates. This probably explains it better than I am:
#10
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ignore all of the warnings nothing will happen nobody has ever bent their car jacking it up on one side
Last edited by xalty; 09-20-2021 at 09:59 PM.
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