Not too bad and sounds like you are making progress. Since the car is under warranty, there should be no worries. The Jag dealer will fix it.

 

Damn, I should have checked:

 

They got anything in there about how to change a front reflector by the book?? The dealer wants to take the bumper off... Ive been told by those who have tried you can removed the front liner, have a good light... do it with leaving the bumper ON.

Wonder what Jag's official procedure is for this... if I could have a page number then I could say look up page so and so... NOW DO IT!!

Loth

 

I should go with them that day when they have the car up and have them take the front wheels off... get some tools and remove the front wheel liner and then install the clear reflector on my car, in their shop, MYSELF... while they work on the front. HA!@!

 

Sorry, my book only covers up to MY11 (VIN B44939), so it doesn't have anything about those reflectors. If I were you, I'd take the wheel off, remove the rear splash shield (2 nuts, one push-clip and 6 Torx bolts), remove the front splash shield (13 Torx bolts). Then have a look - if you can reach the bolts/nuts that hold the reflector on, you can do it yourself.

Actually, you may not have to undo the whole of the rear shield - the two halves share a single stud at the top, so you may be able to undo the two bolts on the rear shield and bend it down enough to get the front shield off the stud. It's plastic, so it should have enough flex.

 

Where did you get this book at? And have they upgraded it past MY13? Probably would be a good investment for me considering i own a MY12 and 13.

 

I bought it as a CD on eBay. Just search for this:

jaguar XK workshop manual CD 2012

Looks like they've updated it to 2012. I've copied all the PDF files to my laptop, so I don't even bother with the CD or its slightly clunky interface.

 

You can download it from jagdocs.com for about $30.00. Well worth theprice and it is actually easy to follow.

 

OK, came across something last night: there is a temp sensor in the wing mirror:

The sensor at the front of the car is for the climate control system, not the engine. So if your mirror wiring is disconnected, the engine will have no accurate ambient temperature info.

 

Holy Crap could this lead to the engine overheating!?!

What section of the workshop manual did you find this in? I need to tell them I suppose ASAP.

The temp reading I'm getting on my screen is from -40F to 0F.

 

This seems to be fairly common these days, FWIW my Freelander also has the ambient temp sensor in the mirror.

I doubt that it's a risk to the engine though, there is also a sensor which measures the coolant temperature in the engine itself, that would be much more relevant in an overheating situation.

 

There you go , that lack of water temperature gauge haunting us , hahahaha.

 

 

It also says when the AAT sensor in the LH mirror malfunctions, then the ECM uses the MAFT sensor in the air intake area to calculate temp... If both are not functioning then the ECM adopts 20C (68F). I think these fail-safes would prevent a total shutdown of the cooling fan!?

I do however wonder if the MIL light is on because of the LH mirror not having power vs the front temp sensor (that displays a temp to the touchscreen and says its -44F out) .... How could that temp sensor cause a MIL (the one in the front)??. The LH mirror sensor is in the "engine" section... therefore I think that is where the MIL is kicking on.

 

Ryan:

Is your car at the Jaguar dealership yet?

 

It is not. I called to tell them there is a temp sensor in the LH mirror... they called back to tell me sorry we missed your call we did get the part in but the part was not the right part ordered. So they said sometime next week. At any rate... I will not drive the car now till its fixed - I drove it a bit yesterday and it worked fine (apart from the left mirror not working, the MIL on, and it touch screen external temp reading saying its -44F to 0F).

After purchasing the workshop manual... I am convinced that these cars are very complex!!!!! Its not just a simple jaguar... HoLy CoW there are a ton of modules and sensors!!!

I was wondering if we all shouldnt start buying extra sensors and modules NOW while they are still making them..... that would be crazy.... then again... I am CrAzY for these cars!!!

 

As Cambo said, and as you've spotted in the manual, the ECM has another way to estimate external temperature, and a default if it can't. This has nothing to do with coolant temperature, which is measured elsewhere.

Basically, the correct fuel/air mix is partially dependent on air density, and that's dependent on air temperature - if the engine is sucking in cold, dense air, you'll need more fuel to provide the right mixture than if it's breathing warmer air. So, if the temp sensor is dead, the only risk you're taking is of the car running a bit rich or a bit lean depending on what the real temp is vs. what the car thinks it is.

And all of this is separate from the climate system and the temperature displayed on the touch screen - that's another sensor at the front of the car.

 

The truly informed xkr owner is aware that there are 2 water coolant sensors on the engine. 1 is above the bell housing on the rear of the engine on the right side. The other is on the front of the engine on the left side

Both sensors are twist and click plastic mounts
These sensors and coolant temp have absolutely nothing to do with the aforementioned outside temp sensor

The assumption that the water temp oil temp and oil pressure, isnt accessible on a xkr is a myth. These parameters are readily available in real time while driving the car.

Moreover, the assumption that torque pro app isnt able to provide them is also wrong. Although this isnt my tool of choice

A tremendous amount of misinformation, bad advice and poor guidance regarding water coolant monitoring and oil pressure monitoring, leading to engine damage have been on this forum for 2 weeks now.

It will only lead to disaster if the wrong advice is used on a vehicle

 

SoCalBabe:

Glad to see you back.

Helpful post for all. Can you provide some info on how to obtain such things as in your post above. Oil Pressure, water temps etc. I think your knowledge would be so helpful to all including myself, who does not posses the knowledge that you have. I am always open to learning new methods of discovery from others like yourself.

Thanks for posting. Hopefully you can respond publicly or privately.

 

I will be more than happy to respond privately. On the condition that you will not post how to obtain the data or the product on this forum.

I am sure you are well aware that I was banned from this forum for 10 days.

I was informed that I willed be permanently banned from this forum thru IP address if I offend or am politically incorrect again.

As you are aware, I took an individual to task that blamed the manufacturer, for his melted engine after he ignored an intermittent warning light for 1 hour.

I truly believe that trying to extort a new car from a manufacturer due to ones own ignorance or abuse is a matter of moral turpitude. I also called the individual to task on that as it was posted on this forum. For that I was severely punished.

No one on this forum read with much critical thought how that engine was destroyed, except me.

The car owner, who blamed everyone but himself, got the karma he so desired.

He threw the dealer under the bus by complaining to Jag N.A., about the inaction of the dealer to fix his car post haste and forthwith.

The only friend he had that could have fixed this car and cover up the abuse and negligence is now his worst enemy.

I am confident that a Jag N.A. regional rep will discover the abuse and cancel the CPO and not allow the dealer to fix the engine at Jag's expense.

If you recall the expense to fix that car was at most several hundred dollars, to replace the water pump. But now that the engine was nuked the cost is a minimum of $7500.00 if you include a total rebuild or a new engine with labor time.

This is conjecture on my part regarding cost due to I havent inspected the engine. But remember he ran an over heated engine for at least 40 miles, which aint good for the bearings, crank, pistons, blah blah blah. I wouldnt be surprised if the entire engine didnt seize up

the forum members that reported me and had me banned should be proud of themselves. Besides, I am just another woman who graduated summa *** laude from M.I.T. No, I am not an intake coordinator in H.R. as in my profile

There arent any threaded pressure ports that can be accessed in the block to get oil temp and pressure as evidenced by my inspection of my car's engine. Oil pressure is thru an electronic sensor that doesnt allow threading for an oil sensor. I however did find a way to get the most accurate oil pressure and temp, in real time, + or - 1 degree, with the help of a fine Merlot and modification of the electronics

Furthermore, the water temp sensors cant be accessed either for gauges, as they are plastic twist click. However, I used the laser temp pick-up that I alluded to when I heated up my blower pulley, and then found the hottest part of the engine that had water access. I then used a calibrated water temp sensor that runs to a digital gauge or a smart phone

As I stated before, I will be more than happy to send pics and manufacturer part numbers, and a walk through to accomplish this task. However, I dont want to see this info anywhere on this forum or read that any member received the pm from you with the info I sent.

When I get thrown off this forum, permanently, it will be the forum's loss, not mine

Karma is a *****, aint it guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!