I'm a XKR new owner, what shoud I ckeck on it?
#22
For those that think a warning light is going to save you, don't be so sure. Prior to me buying my 2010 XKR, I test drove it from the previous owner and was highly unimpressed. There were no warning lights whatsoever on the dash display. About 2-3 months later when the previous owner called me to see if I was still interested, I had him bring the car over to my mechanic just to read the codes. I hadn't really planned on buying it after the initial test drive and with 68K miles on it, but he was close by and we met at the mechanic. When reading the codes through OBD, it turns out there was a cam sensor fault which I was familiar with since the previous week I had replaced the same on my 2002 XKR. But, my mechanic also said that through his experience he could hear that the engine was not running right and would probably need replacement. The p.o. after recovering from the shock, realized that he had an extended insurance/warranty policy, and they agreed to have my mechanic put a "new" engine in. When he pulled the engine there was virtually no oil in it, yet no warnings which should have kicked in if more than 2-3 quarts low. Once the new engine was installed, I agreed to buy the car. My car will occasionally burn a quart of oil between changes, but I check it every couple of weeks so that I'm aware of it and can top it off. I don't want a repeat of the previous owner's problem. How I wish we just had a simple dipstick and some real gauges.
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Cee Jay (04-29-2017)
#23
For those that think a warning light is going to save you, don't be so sure. Prior to me buying my 2010 XKR, I test drove it from the previous owner and was highly unimpressed. There were no warning lights whatsoever on the dash display. About 2-3 months later when the previous owner called me to see if I was still interested, I had him bring the car over to my mechanic just to read the codes. I hadn't really planned on buying it after the initial test drive and with 68K miles on it, but he was close by and we met at the mechanic. When reading the codes through OBD, it turns out there was a cam sensor fault which I was familiar with since the previous week I had replaced the same on my 2002 XKR. But, my mechanic also said that through his experience he could hear that the engine was not running right and would probably need replacement. The p.o. after recovering from the shock, realized that he had an extended insurance/warranty policy, and they agreed to have my mechanic put a "new" engine in. When he pulled the engine there was virtually no oil in it, yet no warnings which should have kicked in if more than 2-3 quarts low. Once the new engine was installed, I agreed to buy the car. My car will occasionally burn a quart of oil between changes, but I check it every couple of weeks so that I'm aware of it and can top it off. I don't want a repeat of the previous owner's problem. How I wish we just had a simple dipstick and some real gauges.
If you say electronically then that means the "sensors" are picking it up.
If your car is burning a quart of oil, are ya sure they put a new engine in.
The reason I ask is that no insurance/warranty company in the world will fix an engine that was allowed to be run low on oil- and failure resulted owing to it.
Note: overfilling on this engine is far more catastrophic than letting it run low by a quart or even two.
#24
Also note, its near impossible to let this car run out of oil. We are not talking chevy 350 that holds 4.5quarts at best. This thing holds nearly twice as much. Yeah twice that of my v8 suv. And there is no low hanging sump pan to puncture.
Without a dipstick- it increases the odds of overfilling while the odds of running out are virtually non existent.
Without a dipstick- it increases the odds of overfilling while the odds of running out are virtually non existent.
#25
Also note, its near impossible to let this car run out of oil. We are not talking chevy 350 that holds 4.5quarts at best. This thing holds nearly twice as much. Yeah twice that of my v8 suv. And there is no low hanging sump pan to puncture.
Without a dipstick- it increases the odds of overfilling while the odds of running out are virtually non existent.
Without a dipstick- it increases the odds of overfilling while the odds of running out are virtually non existent.
#26
#27
The procedure when doing it yourself is slightly underfilling, then topping off after measurement, just like you do a transmission. in case you did not get all the old oil out.
#28
We must realize what's going on with Jaguar. Since the beginning of time, this wildly innovative, race winning, avant grade manufacturer has had to rely on hand-me-down, out of patent, archaic engine blocks. Our engine was the first one they had the luxury of designing from scratch to their known grievances and competency.
One of the things they impressed the manufacturing world with was the oil strategies on this incredible engine. To the point that Ford is licensing Jaguar oil patents on their engines.
If Ferrari or Audi made this engine the world would be bowing down to them. They thought of everything! Compare how much more energy efficient our engines are compared to theirs, the wide power band, the lack of carbon build up.
Every Jaguar enthusiast must read
New Jaguar V8 revealed in Detroit - SAE International
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Cee Jay (04-30-2017)
#29
Welcome, Ed! This is my second XKR learnings;
1. Check Rear Sway Bar bushings - rubber covers are cheesy and crack. Whole Sway Bar link very cheap and easy to change.
2. I use Shell T6 5-40 synthetic oil. I am sure there will be many comments, but my wife's Buick went 160k without burning a drop, XKR loves it, and I am in a hot place.
3. Buy a GOOD radar/Laser detector. You will need it.
4. I alternate between Michelin Pilot sport AS3+ and Continental DWS . Michelin has sharp handliing but flinty ride - DWS slightly more squirmy but great traction and no cold tire thump.
5. If lights go out in rear, or other oddities - pull positive terminal off battery and reconnect after 1 minute. Car uses solid state FET to drive LED lights - if they overheat or short requires power-down reset.
6. Other have stated battery is critical - get a good one. I have Bosch AGM from Pep Boys. Also good is the Duracell AGM from Sams Club. Make Sure it is AGM.
7. FM Radio reception s**ks!..If you are electrically inclined, get a good amplified antenna and adapter (Metra 40-EU20) and replace the POS in the rear spoiler. The remote amp looks impressive in boot lid, but, actually is not very good.
8. Do do the recommended Trans Fluid replacement at 60k. I did on my 2009, and it made it a happy camper. Filter is integrated into the trans pan, some folks sell it as kit (Pentosin and Filter Pan as a kit.
9. Do Change Rear Differential fluid at 30k. I heard slight whine (e-diff). Used Royal Purple, and whine-no-more, and, slight clunking on slow turns disappears.
You have bought a wonderful car, will stop people in their tracks to stare and look. also, you will find Jag drivers are a rare breed - true car lovers, people who value the emotion of driving a car that is both great to drive and great to look at, but don't have the asshat Euro attitude reputation. (kidding, y'all if you own a German thingus).
1. Check Rear Sway Bar bushings - rubber covers are cheesy and crack. Whole Sway Bar link very cheap and easy to change.
2. I use Shell T6 5-40 synthetic oil. I am sure there will be many comments, but my wife's Buick went 160k without burning a drop, XKR loves it, and I am in a hot place.
3. Buy a GOOD radar/Laser detector. You will need it.
4. I alternate between Michelin Pilot sport AS3+ and Continental DWS . Michelin has sharp handliing but flinty ride - DWS slightly more squirmy but great traction and no cold tire thump.
5. If lights go out in rear, or other oddities - pull positive terminal off battery and reconnect after 1 minute. Car uses solid state FET to drive LED lights - if they overheat or short requires power-down reset.
6. Other have stated battery is critical - get a good one. I have Bosch AGM from Pep Boys. Also good is the Duracell AGM from Sams Club. Make Sure it is AGM.
7. FM Radio reception s**ks!..If you are electrically inclined, get a good amplified antenna and adapter (Metra 40-EU20) and replace the POS in the rear spoiler. The remote amp looks impressive in boot lid, but, actually is not very good.
8. Do do the recommended Trans Fluid replacement at 60k. I did on my 2009, and it made it a happy camper. Filter is integrated into the trans pan, some folks sell it as kit (Pentosin and Filter Pan as a kit.
9. Do Change Rear Differential fluid at 30k. I heard slight whine (e-diff). Used Royal Purple, and whine-no-more, and, slight clunking on slow turns disappears.
You have bought a wonderful car, will stop people in their tracks to stare and look. also, you will find Jag drivers are a rare breed - true car lovers, people who value the emotion of driving a car that is both great to drive and great to look at, but don't have the asshat Euro attitude reputation. (kidding, y'all if you own a German thingus).
#31
I also just bought a 2011 XKR, and the first thing I did was take everyone's advice (Thanks Richzak) and buy the CTEK3300 battery charger. So many of the odd ball dash warnings and miscellaneous electrical issues are traced to a low battery that otherwise appears to be functioning OK.
I'm a pretty experienced home mechanic, so I also bought the online PDF file version of the shop manual. Otherwise, as people have noted, read the owners manual carefully and know the cars' quirks.
Welcome to the club. There is a ton of experience on this forum and you'll be glad you joined. GordoCatCar
I'm a pretty experienced home mechanic, so I also bought the online PDF file version of the shop manual. Otherwise, as people have noted, read the owners manual carefully and know the cars' quirks.
Welcome to the club. There is a ton of experience on this forum and you'll be glad you joined. GordoCatCar
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 05-09-2017 at 01:11 PM.
#32
I also just bought a 2011 XKR, and the first thing I did was take everyone's advice (Thanks Richzak) and buy the CTEK3300 battery charger. So many of the odd ball dash warnings and miscellaneous electrical issues are traced to a low battery that otherwise appears to be functioning OK.
I'm a pretty experienced home mechanic, so I also bought the online PDF file version of the shop manual. Otherwise, as people have noted, read the owners manual carefully and know the cars' quirks.
Welcome to the club. There is a ton of experience on this forum and you'll be glad you joined. GordoCatCar
I'm a pretty experienced home mechanic, so I also bought the online PDF file version of the shop manual. Otherwise, as people have noted, read the owners manual carefully and know the cars' quirks.
Welcome to the club. There is a ton of experience on this forum and you'll be glad you joined. GordoCatCar
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GordoCatCar (05-09-2017)