I have a 2007 XK convertible and can't live with the restricted view out the back window when backing up. I purchased a kit that puts a camera on the rear license plate area and displays on a rear view mirror that goes over the stock unit and has a 3.5 inch display on it. You are supposed to wire into the "backup light" circuit, but the 12v seems to be pulsing or something so the camera cuts in and out continuously while the car in in reverse. I cut into the wires just before the connector to the light in the trunk panel of the car. If I connect the camera wire to any other 12V line the picture is fine. Can't seem to understand what might be going on. Does anyone have a clue? Also, the unit that mounts over the factory rear view mirror requires power. The wires that come with it have a plug that goes into the cigar lighter, but I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a wire that is already up there that is under power when the ignition is on. Is there power going into the factory mirror for the auto dimming that I might be able to use? Thanks!

Steve

 

Steve, i can't help with the first item but I came across ShadyJC's radar detector installation setup as I was looking to hardwire my dashcam, which should address the second item. I'm going to go with his approach, rather than an A pillar wiring.

Good luck.

 

Can you specifically identify the reverse circuit wire you are connected to (color and connector)?

 

Doug, when installing my radar detector I tried finding a positive wire in the upper console. Which resulted in a bunch of crap that I wished didn't happen. So I tied into the power outlet in the glovebox. It is hot when the car is running and powers down once the car is shut down. Just remove the glovebox and you can see it. Others may can tell you which wire on the mirror/console area but I used this instead.

 

The live connection in the interior mirror is a white/black wire.

By the way, there's also a 'reverse inhibit' connection in the mirror, which (presumably) goes live when reverse is selected - it's there to override the electrochromic tinting when you put the car in reverse. Colour is white/blue.

 

Thanks for the help. For the 12V to the rear view mirror (which has the built in monitor) I wound up running the wires down to the accessory socket in the glovebox. I wound up going down the A pillar which wasn't too hard. The bigger issue still is the 12V power that comes on when reverse is engaged. The "backup light" is in the trunk panel on the right side (looking from rear of car). There are only two wires that run into the backup light, the black wire is ground (easy to confirm with a meter) and one would think the other is just 12V (seems to read that way on a simple digital meter). But when I attach to this wire the picture from the camera goes on and off when in reverse. The backup light itself is not some simple bulb, there is a printed circuit board and seems to have a fair amount of components on it along with what seems to be LED type lights. If I connect the camera power directly to the 12V off the battery all is good, except for the camera is running all the time. Pretty strange. Once I get it all to work I will post how to do it so anyone else who wants a backup camera can get one. The unit I purchased is "wireless" and was only like $90 off Amazon. Info is at
PEAK | Rearview Mirror Wireless Back-up Camera | Electronics | Auto Products

 

You could try using the 'reverse inhibit' feed that runs up to the interior mirror to turn off the electrochromic dimming. It comes from the passenger footwell fusebox (Central Junction Box) on connector CA016, which is a 10-way black plug, and the wire you're after is white with a blue stripe.

 

The convertible is indeed a hazard when backing up.

I'd be very interested in the full instructions. Thank you very much!

Have you also looked at getting front proximity sensors (which are not on the 2007 model) installed? It is very disconcerting with the longish hood to not have them when you are pulling up to a curb.

 

From the link you attached it appears that there is a power switch on the mirror. You could just use that with a regular positive and switch the camera manually, if you can not find a convenient positive that stays on only in the backup mode.

 

It's pretty disconcerting even with the front sensors - they're not at kerb level, so you don't get any warnings. Since my car has the Dynamic Pack lowered suspension (10mm), I've come perilously close to removing the front spoiler when nosing into a high kerb.

 

I think the reason you are receiving a pulsing signal when you attach your rear camera positive lead to your rear back up light positive is because the back up light itself pulses.
I don't think this pulse signal is buried in the printed circuits of the real lights because you are receiving the pulse signal before the real light circuits. This means that there is some sort of connection between the transmission reverse position and the back up light; and this connection pulses. The pulse signaling is probably buried somewhere in the Jag's computer.
Personally, I find the pulsing backup light annoying. If anyone figures out a means to eliminate this pulse please post it. Thanks.

 

Your backup light pulses? That must be a market-specific or model-year-specific thing; my UK-spec 2010 doesn't do that.

 

Did you get the camera working? I'd like to see pictures of the mirror mounting when you have the time.

 

The camera is working - sort of. It turns out that the wireless technology that the camera manufacturer is using seems to be in that 2.4 GHz range that everything else uses including apparently Bluetooth. So when the car is running, there is interference that causes the display to "flash" at times. I can move my body or hand (around the rear view mirror) and effect the signal as well. So I now don't believe there is any issue with the actual 12V line on the reverse light in the trunk. I actually think that the best way to wire one of these would be such that the camera is on all the time and that you can use the power button on the rear view mirror of the unit to turn the display out the rear on and off. This would allow you see the camera image without necessarily having to be in reverse.

I improved the situation with the signal by moving the transmitter close to the dash. I snaked the camera line down the drivers side trunk rubber wire cover (not many wires on this side) and then ran it around the side of where the top retracts and brought in into the area in the center of the rear seat where the fuse box is (this is as far as the wire would allow me to go) and then connected power and ground there. If the wire was longer I would have run in along the bottom of the console and put the transmitter in the glove box where I and getting power off the aux socket in there.

When the display in on, the picture is ok but kind of small - about 3.5 in diag. It is prone to having glare on it which on a bright day makes it kind of hard to see without shielding it a bit with your hand. Also, the mirror itself is pretty heavily tinted even with the display off it is kind of like having the mirror set for night time for cutting bright headlights. But I guess what can you expect for such little money. If I did it again I would use a "wired" type system.

 

I know this is an older thread but even in my hardtop I find backing a concern. Especially, after a shop boy directing me back, missed the low pole at an oil change place (left tail light replacement needed and some touch up paint). Anyway, I bought a wireless Auto-vox camera with monitor built into the rear view mirror. I love this feature on the patrol car I drive at work...really adds confidence to backing up.

My problems seem to be a combination of those mentioned in 2014. After trying to simply use the provided splice connection to the wires to the back up light, so as to have the unit to only activate when actually backing, as the manual instructs, the units transmitter will not activate, however the back up light starts to pulse. No, In my 2007 US XK, the back up light does not usually pulse. My first thought was the splice connection was not doing the job, so I hard cut the lines and spliced in the unit with some of the connectors used in my airplane build...but, alas, still the backup light pulses and the wireless transmitter does not activate.

Since I was not certain which of the two wires leading to the back up light was actually "hot" I tried both, to no avail. Normally, I would think the black wire is ground, but to confuse my simple brain, the black one is black with a white stripe.

I may just hardwire the unit to be on all the time, using the button on the mirror/monitor to activated when I feel the need, but this just is bugging the crap out of me and not really right and I like it activating only when backing. Yes, this "little project" has taken on a life of its own. Unlike above, the transmitter is not pulsating along with the light. I was able to get transmitter to activate when hooked up directly to a 12 volt source.

I hated cutting the factory wires and actually did not use a none wireless model I have purchased (cheap) due to having to cut extra factory harnesses. I am currently just happy the back up light still works as expected (no pulsing either) once I hooked up the cut wires.....sans the back up camera stuff.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Chris

Even with the annoyances...esp electrical (as in intermittent starting...so far always has after a couple of attempts), I still so LOVE this car. Even thought its a bit older now, I respectfully prefer it over the F-Type.

 

Avoid the installation problems. There's a much easier solution for under $125 that takes less than 15 minutes to install and works great. See my post #11: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...option-206212/

 

The X150 is heavily dependent on having proper voltage available. A failing or weak battery can cause random DTCs and other electrical 'gremlins' to appear.

With the ignition in the OFF position for at least ten minutes, there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts across the battery terminals. If not, disconnect the battery from the vehicle and charge it overnight, then retest the following day. If there is still less than 12.6 volts across the terminals, the battery should be replaced.

 

I will be considering the provided option even though I hate dropping another $100+. It has become that big a deal to me. My big hesitance is I REALLY wanted it to be activated upon backing only AND to be displayed in the rear view mirror. That's a very natural location to me since I will tend to be looking in the rear view mirror by over 40 years of driving habit anyway.

I wondering if I hook it up to be on all the time but only visible with the switch on the mirror/monitor, if it could aid in seeing cars in the lanes on each side and behind. Nor really useful for true blindspot, but one more data point.

Yes, I have learned the lesson that the 150's need a good battery. I have started leaving in on a charger when out at the hangar working on projects. Currently, I have to park on the street at home....I know...THE HUMANITY. But getting married, selling my house of almost 30 years with a garage, moving to a ritzy part of town, and our one parking space being for the wife has prevented me from having a close power plug.

 

Hi Christopher. Some of us with the 07-09 models retro fitted the backup camera following instructions from Cambo/ JHummer. It works well but requires SDD programming. The power to the camera is on all of the time. Just FYI though because you want a feed to the Rear View mirror.

With that, I presume you are using an aftermarket mirror. Do you mind adding a link?

I abandoned the idea of using the rear view mirror because if you lose your OEM mirror, you lose the auto dim feature. You could probably use one of the buttons on the overhead console to turn it on and off.

All that said, yes you can feed the camera off continuous power.

 

If she really loves you, she will let you park the Jag in the parking space.