Jaguar 2008 XK Program Garage Door Opener
#1
#2
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Some people say you need a bridge or some other converter to do this on newer garage door openers. Me, I followed the procedure outlined in the manual to use the stock door opener remote that came with the opener to program the buttons on my XKR. Then I matched the programmed car's buttons to the opener.
Every opener I've used works with no additional hardware. Maybe I'm lucky or something? I've not had a problem yet.
Every opener I've used works with no additional hardware. Maybe I'm lucky or something? I've not had a problem yet.
#3
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Craig,
Your question has been previously asked and answered many times. Unfortunately, we can't give you any specific advice without knowing details about your garage door opener. Nevertheless, this old thread should be helpful:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...opened-202378/
Stuart
P.S. I just remembered that years ago I posted detailed instructions on how to program the Homelink transmitter. It's worth trying. Click on this 2012 thread and see my Post #12:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-opener-75297/
Your question has been previously asked and answered many times. Unfortunately, we can't give you any specific advice without knowing details about your garage door opener. Nevertheless, this old thread should be helpful:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...opened-202378/
Stuart
P.S. I just remembered that years ago I posted detailed instructions on how to program the Homelink transmitter. It's worth trying. Click on this 2012 thread and see my Post #12:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-opener-75297/
Last edited by Stuart S; 11-23-2020 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
#4
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Some people say you need a bridge or some other converter to do this on newer garage door openers. Me, I followed the procedure outlined in the manual to use the stock door opener remote that came with the opener to program the buttons on my XKR. Then I matched the programmed car's buttons to the opener.
Every opener I've used works with no additional hardware. Maybe I'm lucky or something? I've not had a problem yet.
Every opener I've used works with no additional hardware. Maybe I'm lucky or something? I've not had a problem yet.
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drboz5750 (11-24-2020)
#6
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You're likely to have a problem when you replace your old opener with a new unit with enhanced security features, as it will probably need that "bridge" to work with the older Homelink technology in your XKR. That's what happened to me, but I decided to not do the "bridge" and instead used the handheld transmitters that came with the new opener. That was cheaper and easier.
#7
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Like has been said, if you have a newer garage door opener with the enhanced security the old Jag Homelink won't work directly with the unit. Follow this thread instead, has detailed links for you to follow to buy what you need.
If your garage door opener is an older model with old security it should work just so long as you follow the procedure has listed above carefully.
Garage control - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
If your garage door opener is an older model with old security it should work just so long as you follow the procedure has listed above carefully.
Garage control - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
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drboz5750 (11-24-2020)
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#8
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drboz5750 (11-24-2020)
#9
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I've tried this a lot. First, I could never get the fast flash, because my opener is brand new. I ended up getting the 'bridge' (mostly because I read the threads Stuart mentioned above). Using that, I could get the fast flash, but have never been able to get the opener to recognize my car, even using the rolling code directions, which should be correct for my setup. It's really not a big deal to use the remote, but rubs me the wrong way to have the feature on the car and not be able to use it. I may have some time this weekend to try it again.
#10
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You're likely to have a problem when you replace your old opener with a new unit with enhanced security features, as it will probably need that "bridge" to work with the older Homelink technology in your XKR. That's what happened to me, but I decided to not do the "bridge" and instead used the handheld transmitters that came with the new opener. That was cheaper and easier.
Nope, couldn't program my car to the opener. Wouldn't take no matter how many tries.
SO.......
I did what I've said a dozen times in these forums.
I followed the manual.
Hold down the two outside buttons of the HomeLink until it flashes .
Simultaneously hold down the preferred HomeLink button of the vehicle while holding the Operate button of the new opener's remote until HomeLink flashes rapidly, then release.
THEN, do a normal program using the opener's LEARN button.
Works flawlessly.
I then did the same thing to the Wife's Lexus as that wouldn't program either until I programmed the HomeLink in the vehicle with the provided opener remote.
I did this about three hours ago and didn't need any special Bridge or other component. Took about three minutes total.
All worked exactly as it should.
Perfectly well and great.
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#11
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Funny, your experience is like mine. My first XK I programmed following the manual perfectly and all went well. Then, after that one was totaled and I brought home the XK #2 programmed with no problem.
Then lightning hit my house and blasted several items, my el-cheapo Chamberlain opener was one of the unfortunate victims (along with my roof, my washing machine, several bulbs in the house, and oh yeah it blew up the bulb in my attic with glass everywhere). So clever me went right down to Lowes and bought the exact same model opener, albeit several years newer, this way all I had to do was drop it and replace the motor and I am back in business. No mounting of new rail required.
Alas, the programming was stymied no matter how well I followed the directions, even with me a seasoned multi-XK pro. Noticed the motor unit would also no longer work with my external keypad, I had to update it to a newer one compatible with the high-security+ code. Got the Homelink Bridge device and voila...same programming procedure required for XK but you link it to the bridge, now it opened and closed garage door!
So you are right for your situation, but it isn't the universal answer. I agree 100%, try procedure as the manual states as it hurts nothing, if not there is a simple solution.
Then lightning hit my house and blasted several items, my el-cheapo Chamberlain opener was one of the unfortunate victims (along with my roof, my washing machine, several bulbs in the house, and oh yeah it blew up the bulb in my attic with glass everywhere). So clever me went right down to Lowes and bought the exact same model opener, albeit several years newer, this way all I had to do was drop it and replace the motor and I am back in business. No mounting of new rail required.
Alas, the programming was stymied no matter how well I followed the directions, even with me a seasoned multi-XK pro. Noticed the motor unit would also no longer work with my external keypad, I had to update it to a newer one compatible with the high-security+ code. Got the Homelink Bridge device and voila...same programming procedure required for XK but you link it to the bridge, now it opened and closed garage door!
So you are right for your situation, but it isn't the universal answer. I agree 100%, try procedure as the manual states as it hurts nothing, if not there is a simple solution.
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Cee Jay (12-14-2020)
#12
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Tampamark, Isn't Tampa the lightning capitol of the world? I put in a whole house surge suppressor on the main to hopefully avoid slicking the household electronics if house is struck.
My openers are older Linear models and had no problems programming the car buttons following the drivers manual procedure. However, one opener had been very noisy recently but a good lube job seems to have helped.
If that doesnt work, my plan was the same as yours to replace it with an identical unit preserving the infrastructure. Last thing I want is a smart opener (or refrigerator) but good to know there is a solution if that is unavoidable.
My openers are older Linear models and had no problems programming the car buttons following the drivers manual procedure. However, one opener had been very noisy recently but a good lube job seems to have helped.
If that doesnt work, my plan was the same as yours to replace it with an identical unit preserving the infrastructure. Last thing I want is a smart opener (or refrigerator) but good to know there is a solution if that is unavoidable.
#13
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Yeah, so they say, we are the lightning capital! In 52 years living here only time it has been a direct strike, had to ask my Dad to confirm the first 5. I don't know if a surge suppression on the main would prevented my damage as it didn't come in through that line, would think that device protects a strike on the main line from entering the house. This hit directly on my roof even though I am not the highest in neighborhood and didn't have any antenna or other attraction on top. Once it blew a hole in the wood it arced over to it's path into my inner wiring, the attic light fixture, it only blew the items that were on the same circuit as the fixture.
When I replaced the opener main drive it looked identical, but it had new updated clickers. I though I would have extra clickers but the old ones didn't work and the remote pad wasn't compatible. And oh yeah, the Jag. But installation with the identical unit made it a 10 minute swap so was definitely a time saver. By the way, my opener is not smart, it isn't connected, it is pre-MyQ. However, it is Security+2.0 whereas the previous was not.
When I replaced the opener main drive it looked identical, but it had new updated clickers. I though I would have extra clickers but the old ones didn't work and the remote pad wasn't compatible. And oh yeah, the Jag. But installation with the identical unit made it a 10 minute swap so was definitely a time saver. By the way, my opener is not smart, it isn't connected, it is pre-MyQ. However, it is Security+2.0 whereas the previous was not.
#14
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Dunno, man. One of those weird things in the ether? You and I should have the exact same HomeLink system.
#15
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#16
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I had the option to buy the Built-In MyQ or the "MyQ Ready" one which required an additional part Sold Separately'. Price difference was $20, so who cares. I'm sure the Sold Separately part is $30.
I also have several chains, rails and sensors laying around from previous fails where I just swapped the head unit. I have a bunch of rental houses, which is why so many extra parts.
I also have several chains, rails and sensors laying around from previous fails where I just swapped the head unit. I have a bunch of rental houses, which is why so many extra parts.
#18
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Yeah, so they say, we are the lightning capital! In 52 years living here only time it has been a direct strike, had to ask my Dad to confirm the first 5. I don't know if a surge suppression on the main would prevented my damage as it didn't come in through that line, would think that device protects a strike on the main line from entering the house. This hit directly on my roof even though I am not the highest in neighborhood and didn't have any antenna or other attraction on top. Once it blew a hole in the wood it arced over to it's path into my inner wiring, the attic light fixture, it only blew the items that were on the same circuit as the fixture.
When I replaced the opener main drive it looked identical, but it had new updated clickers. I though I would have extra clickers but the old ones didn't work and the remote pad wasn't compatible. And oh yeah, the Jag. But installation with the identical unit made it a 10 minute swap so was definitely a time saver. By the way, my opener is not smart, it isn't connected, it is pre-MyQ. However, it is Security+2.0 whereas the previous was not.
When I replaced the opener main drive it looked identical, but it had new updated clickers. I though I would have extra clickers but the old ones didn't work and the remote pad wasn't compatible. And oh yeah, the Jag. But installation with the identical unit made it a 10 minute swap so was definitely a time saver. By the way, my opener is not smart, it isn't connected, it is pre-MyQ. However, it is Security+2.0 whereas the previous was not.
My previous house had a long run of power feed through 3 poles along the driveway. Last pole before the house got blown to literal pieces by lightning but only damage in the house was 2 blown fuses and the phone line. That was pre-digital electronics so much more susceptible nowadays. Current house has several lightning roofs on the roof which have never been needed to my knowledge.
Thanks. Got it. The new security protocol dictates the changes needed for the interface between the Jag and the new opener.
Enjoy your warm weather. Not so pleasant here over the next few days.
#19
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I just replace my old opener with a new Genie. On my 1998 XK8 the manual procedure works, but it left out a requirement. After holding a working remote next to the button you want to program while holding both buttons until getting a rapid blink then pushing the opener "learn" button you have to go back and push the car's button you are trying to program several times until the garage door starts to move. Worked fine after that.
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Cee Jay (12-26-2020)