The secret regardless of oil spec is top do an oil change every 2-4 k miles

 

 

Jaguar changes its oil spec from day to day it seems just to cover its ****

 

Wish I could get that Pennzoil oil at that price (but I can't here in Oz), I would buy a stack of it in a jiffy!
As I have said many times before I have never used Castrol in any of my Jags and instead I have only ever used Oz brands Penrite and Nulon 5W-20 full synth meeting the 945A spec in both the XFR and F-Type, and I have never had an engine problem on either car.
But I do change the oil every six months which for me works out at roughly 5,000 miles.

 

Ozzy, I hope you dont use that liqui moly crap Ftype guys use. It has shameful test results.

The only metric I care about in this engine is sludge- wear is not even a concern, we will never make it to 200,000 miles and have to worry about wear, sludge will get us before then.
I have seen so many engines with few miles have sludge related problems and have to be scraped. (can we include oil starvation, oil radar misreading to sludge), never seen one wear out rings yet.

Penrite was tested in the video below, its not bad, but you will get twice the carbon buildup and sludge as Penz Ultra
Would you believe Pennzoil Ultra beat out all the other oils by a significant margin and came in 2nd (to Amsoil) only because of a 5% wear difference, but better than Amsoil in volatility and detergents.
This thing is us incredible- highest anti wear additives, highest detergents, lowest volatility, and its the cheapest oil in this test. Says a lot for honesty.

This guy is no authority on anything, but he tries and its all we've got.

This was the penrite test.

 

Nup, never used Liqui Moly.
As I said, the ONLY oil I have used for over six years now is Penrite and Nulon, and in fact I have only ever used Nulon in the F-Type.
Can't get Pennzoil or Amsoil here in 5W-20 or 0W-20 at a decent price, both are very hard to find and if you can they cost a packet.
Another reason why I use Nulon, it's freely available and reasonably priced, and once every six months or so it's on sale at 30% even 40% off and that's when I buy at least 10 litres and sometimes 15 litres of it. And it's a dinky di Oz brand, see here: https://www.nulon.com.au

Edit - forgot to add - I did an oil change on the F-Type a week ago and I followed your tip of pouring about a litre of fresh oil down the oil filter opening once the sump was empty, and yes when I pumped that litre out again it brought plenty of old dark dirty oil with it.

 

Quick question. Was your oil filter housing full of oil when you opened the cap and did it drain after a few minutes? The reason I ask is that I'm trying to figure out how the Jaguar oiling system keeps the filter housing full ready to provide lubrication as soon as the oil pump starts turning. In the manual it shows a non-return valve located near the oil cooler but if the housing drains, how does that work? I did an oil change on mine yesterday and noticed that when I pulled the oil filter housing cover off, there was quite a bit of oil in there. After about 10 minutes the housing was mostly empty including both holes at the bottom - see picture:



My Landy 3.2 uses a similar oil filter housing but it has a spring loaded drain valve in the bottom. When the filter is in place and the housing cover screwed down, the valve is pushed closed and the housing stays full of oil. When you unscrew the housing cover, the oil filter stops pushing on the valve and it opens allowing the housing to drain. On the Jaguar I don't see anything similar so how does the oil filter housing remain full of oil after engine shut down? And the reason I'm asking this is because I'm wondering if this could be a contributor to some of the chain tensioner failures. If the lubrication system has to prime the housing each start up because of a problem with the non return valve it will add to the time it takes for the tensioners to tension the timing chains. There is some kind of mechanism in the oil filter housing cover but I can't tell if that's related.

 

Yes, my housing was full of oil (not really "full" but a fair whack in the bottom, a helluva lot more than is showing in your pic, maybe 5 mm deep) and no it did not drain at all while I was pumping the old oil out. I did what I always do - I mopped up as much as I could of the old oil with a MF cloth.

 

How long did you leave it uncovered. Mine was out for a couple of hours. I initially has oil in the bottom but it drained over time.

 

About 20 minutes.
The time it took to pump all the old oil out plus the extra litre of fresh oil plus some time to stop half way through and tip half the old oil out of the pump container (coz I knew it wasn't going to hold the whole 7.25 litres) and 5 minutes extra time to Macgyver a fix for the plug on the end of the extraction pump tube which didn't fit tight enough.
I have never checked what it looks like after two hours or more of the filter removed so you could be right, it could just drain away by itself.
In the past I always drained the old oil from the sump plug with the filter removed and I usually let it drain for around one hour, but even then I never noticed the oil in the filter housing dropping by any degree.

 

Mine took a while because I was measuring everything with a calibrated measuring jug because I've gotten a few odd readings from the oil level sensor. I first used a vacuum extractor and got approx. 6.75 liters out. Then I pulled the oil pan drain plug and got another 250 milliliters.. There was probably 50-75 milliliters in the oil filter after I let it seep out and the flushed it with compressed air. At the last oil change I used 7.25 liters but didn't measure exactly. I also didn't drain from the sump either.

 

Ugh what? Castrol Edge Professional 0w20 is what recommended and what most of us use.

 

Mean while across the pond some still use the 5w20 with good effect

 

They still use 5w20 at main dealers here in Florida and on the 2015 Rover the oil cap and handbook also state 5w20.

 

Indy that i use owner has a 15 xfr-s he uses 5w20 to

 

+1 in DFW...

 

Clearly now we know there are only two logical outcomes if you own the 5.0.
If you use 0w20 this will happen


and if you opt for the 5w20 this will happen:

 

 

I just did an oil change on my 2012 XF Supercharged and this time I used the 0w-20 Motul 5122 specific oil for Jaguar/Land Rover so I hope this doesn't happen. For the last two oil changes I used 5W-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and nothing blew up either. This is starting to feel like oil change Russian roulette .

 

This is exactly how I change my engine oil.