Key fob not working
#1
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Hello, I own a 2009 Jaguar XKR Convertible.My problem is thekey fobwill not open (lock or unlock) the car...the fob worked yesterday and past years.I changed the battery (#2032) and it still doesn't work. I operated the key fob all around the car and even the fabric top with no luck. Since the car battery might be low (5+years old), I'm putting a trickle charge for 48 hours to make sure it is charged before I manually use the emergency key to open the door and hope I can turn off the alarm.
No work has been done on the car except oil change, brakes etc. a few months ago. Some people said it might be a faulty BCM and maybe have a diagnostic check (and if so, the fobs are probably not connecting to the car) and ask if it can reprogram the existing BCM module (if corrupted reprogram with SDD?) and the key fob as well.
Others said to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5"ormaybe a "hard dump"? to disconnect both + and - leads for 15 min. and hold both together to clear fault codes??
Someone looked at the wiring diagram, and said there are 2 fuses that should be checked. Fuse F3 20A which supplies the Keyless Vehicle Module and fuse F19 5A which supplies the RF receiver, both are located in the central junction box in the front passenger footwell...fuse 29?
Does anyone know of a Jaguar independent engineer or a Jaguarspecialist in the western suburbs of Chicago?
Help...any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
Ron D.
No work has been done on the car except oil change, brakes etc. a few months ago. Some people said it might be a faulty BCM and maybe have a diagnostic check (and if so, the fobs are probably not connecting to the car) and ask if it can reprogram the existing BCM module (if corrupted reprogram with SDD?) and the key fob as well.
Others said to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5"ormaybe a "hard dump"? to disconnect both + and - leads for 15 min. and hold both together to clear fault codes??
Someone looked at the wiring diagram, and said there are 2 fuses that should be checked. Fuse F3 20A which supplies the Keyless Vehicle Module and fuse F19 5A which supplies the RF receiver, both are located in the central junction box in the front passenger footwell...fuse 29?
Does anyone know of a Jaguar independent engineer or a Jaguarspecialist in the western suburbs of Chicago?
Help...any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
Ron D.
#2
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Welcome to the forums Ron,
I've copied this question from your Intro to X150 forum for advice from other members with the same model.
Take a pause and do some forum reading BEFORE EVEN CONSIDERING reprogramming the BCM or any other module. If the Smartkey worked yesterday and nothing else has changed, modules are extremely unlikely to have failed overnight and you could easily dig yourself into a very deep and expensive hole.
Graham
I've copied this question from your Intro to X150 forum for advice from other members with the same model.
Take a pause and do some forum reading BEFORE EVEN CONSIDERING reprogramming the BCM or any other module. If the Smartkey worked yesterday and nothing else has changed, modules are extremely unlikely to have failed overnight and you could easily dig yourself into a very deep and expensive hole.
Graham
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Hans Amstein (01-05-2022)
#3
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First thing.... charge your car battery with a battery CHARGER, not a 'trickle'. A good 10-20 amp charger will do nicely, probably 12-24 hours. After that, let it sit for an hour and then check the battery voltage. If it isn't 12.6 volts or higher, you need a new car battery.
Get a brand new, recently made high quality name brand 2032 battery for the Smart Key. As GGG stated, do some research on the Smart Key, as some people slightly bend the battery contacts to connect better to the battery.
Your car has a 99.9999999% chance of being completely free of any defect.
Get a brand new, recently made high quality name brand 2032 battery for the Smart Key. As GGG stated, do some research on the Smart Key, as some people slightly bend the battery contacts to connect better to the battery.
Your car has a 99.9999999% chance of being completely free of any defect.
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ralphwg (01-03-2022)
#4
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Hello, I own a 2009 Jaguar XKR Convertible.My problem is thekey fobwill not open (lock or unlock) the car...the fob worked yesterday and past years.I changed the battery (#2032) and it still doesn't work. I operated the key fob all around the car and even the fabric top with no luck. Since the car battery might be low (5+years old), I'm putting a trickle charge for 48 hours to make sure it is charged before I manually use the emergency key to open the door and hope I can turn off the alarm.
You don't say if the vehicle starts.
You have the option of inserting the FOB into the smart key dock but be aware if the car battery is dead, the FOB can't be removed until the battery is healthy.
Yes IMO you should change out the battery and as Cee Jay states, if you don't get a new battery, use a battery charger. You can perform a simple voltage test at the car battery in resting state with the battery off a charger. Using a voltmeter, if voltage is less than 12.6 volts, replace it. Order from an auto parts store and tell them to charge it overnight for you. Then when you pick it up you have a fresh battery. I'm going to guess this is your issue you're having and why bother trying to give CPR to a 5 year old battery, right?
No work has been done on the car except oil change, brakes etc. a few months ago. Some people said it might be a faulty BCM and maybe have a diagnostic check (and if so, the fobs are probably not connecting to the car) and ask if it can reprogram the existing BCM module (if corrupted reprogram with SDD?) and the key fob as well.
Someone looked at the wiring diagram, and said there are 2 fuses that should be checked. Fuse F3 20A which supplies the Keyless Vehicle Module and fuse F19 5A which supplies the RF receiver, both are located in the central junction box in the front passenger footwell...fuse 29?
Sorry, don't know any indy's in the Chicago area but check the basics here. Nothing you've mentioned imo requires a mechanic yet.
Last edited by Sean W; 01-03-2022 at 03:28 PM.
#5
The following 8 users liked this post by defalco733:
bgpenguin21 (06-14-2024),
Cee Jay (01-04-2022),
GGG (01-04-2022),
guy (01-05-2022),
Hans Amstein (01-05-2022),
and 3 others liked this post.
#6
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Enjoy the moment. A Smartkey battery is the lowest cost repair you will ever do to a Jaguar.
![Icon Lol](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Graham
The following 5 users liked this post by GGG:
bgpenguin21 (06-14-2024),
gatorVDP (01-04-2022),
Hans Amstein (01-05-2022),
peterv8 (01-04-2022),
ralphwg (01-05-2022)
#7
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My key fob related buttons will open the trunk and operate the lights but only ocasssionaly function when selecting the Open & Close tabs. Internal inspection revealed that the raised rubber knobs on the interior of the flexible membrane were worn down from use over the years. Pressing the small mechanical plungers that the knobs make contact with, functioned normally if I used a pencil to depress them.My suggestion to check your membranes for wear.
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#8
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Hallo und habt ein schönes Wochenende allerseits.
eider musste ich alle meine Modifikationen auf Tag 1 zurückbauen, um alle Lecks zu beseitigen ;-((( Heute konnte ich endlich eine Probefahrt machen. Sobald ich die Zündung einschaltete, wusste ich, dass diesmal alles in Ordnung war ;-)
Der Leerlauf regelt perfekt und der Motor läuft einwandfrei ohne zu ruckeln. Die Probefahrt war auch super. Das Drehmoment ist enorm und nachdem alles abgedichtet ist, hat sich der Geräuschpegel sicherlich halbiert. Aber es ist immer noch (angenehm) laut.
Da ich die Aufnahmefunktion des IDS mit dem VCM nicht verstanden habe, musste ich mit einem OBDlink messen, was gut funktionierte. STFT Bank 1 und 2 haben nur geringe Abweichungen voneinander, aber im Schubbetrieb gehen sie bis zu +25%.
Mit einer Beschleunigung um +3 - +12%
LTFT Bank 1 und 2 haben ebenfalls fast keine Abweichungen voneinander und liegen in der Regel zwischen 0 - +5%
Die Luftmasse liegt bei ca. 5200 U/min bei ca. 380-385 g/s, dann schaltet sich der Motor plötzlich ab.
Der Unterdruck auf der V8-Abdeckung des Kompressors beträgt beim Ausrollen fast -20 psi. Ist das in Ordnung? Beim Beschleunigen mit voller Geschwindigkeit sind es knapp +19psi. Es ist relativ schwierig, beim Fahren alles im Blick zu behalten, die Straße, das Manometer und das Smartphone. Gibt es noch etwas, das ich vorher prüfen sollte, oder ist der MAF, wie mir mehrfach gesagt wurde, derzeit das schwächste Glied in der Kette?
Leute, ich bin dankbar für jeden Tipp. Leider bin ich, wie man leicht erkennen kann, kein Experte und habe in meinem Leben nichts anderes mit Autos oder Motoren zu tun. Aber heute bin ich stolz darauf, dass der Motor so läuft wie heute --- es waren viele, viele, viele Stunden Arbeit. Herzliche Grüße, Dirk
eider musste ich alle meine Modifikationen auf Tag 1 zurückbauen, um alle Lecks zu beseitigen ;-((( Heute konnte ich endlich eine Probefahrt machen. Sobald ich die Zündung einschaltete, wusste ich, dass diesmal alles in Ordnung war ;-)
Der Leerlauf regelt perfekt und der Motor läuft einwandfrei ohne zu ruckeln. Die Probefahrt war auch super. Das Drehmoment ist enorm und nachdem alles abgedichtet ist, hat sich der Geräuschpegel sicherlich halbiert. Aber es ist immer noch (angenehm) laut.
Da ich die Aufnahmefunktion des IDS mit dem VCM nicht verstanden habe, musste ich mit einem OBDlink messen, was gut funktionierte. STFT Bank 1 und 2 haben nur geringe Abweichungen voneinander, aber im Schubbetrieb gehen sie bis zu +25%.
Mit einer Beschleunigung um +3 - +12%
LTFT Bank 1 und 2 haben ebenfalls fast keine Abweichungen voneinander und liegen in der Regel zwischen 0 - +5%
Die Luftmasse liegt bei ca. 5200 U/min bei ca. 380-385 g/s, dann schaltet sich der Motor plötzlich ab.
Der Unterdruck auf der V8-Abdeckung des Kompressors beträgt beim Ausrollen fast -20 psi. Ist das in Ordnung? Beim Beschleunigen mit voller Geschwindigkeit sind es knapp +19psi. Es ist relativ schwierig, beim Fahren alles im Blick zu behalten, die Straße, das Manometer und das Smartphone. Gibt es noch etwas, das ich vorher prüfen sollte, oder ist der MAF, wie mir mehrfach gesagt wurde, derzeit das schwächste Glied in der Kette?
Leute, ich bin dankbar für jeden Tipp. Leider bin ich, wie man leicht erkennen kann, kein Experte und habe in meinem Leben nichts anderes mit Autos oder Motoren zu tun. Aber heute bin ich stolz darauf, dass der Motor so läuft wie heute --- es waren viele, viele, viele Stunden Arbeit. Herzliche Grüße, Dirk
#10
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**
"Hello and have a nice weekend everyone.
Unfortunately, I had to restore all my modifications to day 1 to eliminate all the leaks ;-((( Today I was finally able to take a test drive. As soon as I turned the ignition on, I knew everything was fine this time ;-)
The idle regulates perfectly and the engine runs perfectly without jerking. The test drive was great too. The torque is huge and after everything is sealed the noise level has certainly been halved. But it's still (pleasantly) loud.
Since I didn't understand the recording function of the IDS with the VCM, I had to measure with an OBDlink, which worked well. STFT Bank 1 and 2 have only small differences from each other, but in overrun they go up to +25%.
With an acceleration of +3 - +12%
LTFT Bank 1 and 2 also have almost no deviations from each other and are usually between 0 - +5%
The air mass is at around 5200 rpm at around 380-385 g/s, then the engine suddenly switches off.
The vacuum on the V8 supercharger cover is almost -20 psi when coasting. Is that ok? When accelerating at full speed it's just under +19psi. It is relatively difficult to keep an eye on everything while driving: the road, the pressure gauge and your smartphone. Is there anything else I should check beforehand or is the MAF, as I have been told numerous times, currently the weakest link in the chain?
Guys, I'm grateful for every tip. Unfortunately, as you can easily see, I am not an expert and have nothing else to do with cars or engines in my life. But today I'm proud that the engine runs like it does today --- it was many, many, many hours of work. Kind regards, Dirk"
**
"oh I answered in the wrong topic, sorry and best regards, Dirk"
"Hello and have a nice weekend everyone.
Unfortunately, I had to restore all my modifications to day 1 to eliminate all the leaks ;-((( Today I was finally able to take a test drive. As soon as I turned the ignition on, I knew everything was fine this time ;-)
The idle regulates perfectly and the engine runs perfectly without jerking. The test drive was great too. The torque is huge and after everything is sealed the noise level has certainly been halved. But it's still (pleasantly) loud.
Since I didn't understand the recording function of the IDS with the VCM, I had to measure with an OBDlink, which worked well. STFT Bank 1 and 2 have only small differences from each other, but in overrun they go up to +25%.
With an acceleration of +3 - +12%
LTFT Bank 1 and 2 also have almost no deviations from each other and are usually between 0 - +5%
The air mass is at around 5200 rpm at around 380-385 g/s, then the engine suddenly switches off.
The vacuum on the V8 supercharger cover is almost -20 psi when coasting. Is that ok? When accelerating at full speed it's just under +19psi. It is relatively difficult to keep an eye on everything while driving: the road, the pressure gauge and your smartphone. Is there anything else I should check beforehand or is the MAF, as I have been told numerous times, currently the weakest link in the chain?
Guys, I'm grateful for every tip. Unfortunately, as you can easily see, I am not an expert and have nothing else to do with cars or engines in my life. But today I'm proud that the engine runs like it does today --- it was many, many, many hours of work. Kind regards, Dirk"
**
"oh I answered in the wrong topic, sorry and best regards, Dirk"
#12
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