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I just got my son's 2007 XKR on a trailer from Washington. It's been sitting at his GF's house for many months. If anyone doesn't know (or care), he bought it in Utah and drove it home to WA and it got Restricted Performance three months later. The seller said "HAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!" and offered to fix it..... for $25k. He had just paid THEM $19k FOR the car. Another shop near where he lives in Seattle quoted $20k for a new engine BECAUSE THERE WAS CATALYTIC CONVERTER MEDIA inside the intake. WTF???? I seriously seriously doubt that because HOW???? I figure they just wanted the $20k at my kid's expense.
Anyway, he finally shipped it here and now I have another (ugh) project in my already busy life. Plus one window was down maybe 1/4-inch and now the interior is a bit moldy. Of course the battery is dead at 0.62 volts. I'm attempting a Reconditioning, but not much hope do I have.
The screws in the SC look a bit ratty to me, is this normal??? Either normal or not, I'd say it was easily rebuildable if not okay now.
And here it sits, for however long. I now need a 4.2 Workshop Manual to go along with my 5.0 one.
Whelp, kid took a few days to fly in for a visit with the idea to drive his car back home.......
We had to finish taking the top end off, then we again cleaned the injectors (again) and brushed up the spark plugs, tested all the coils and reinstalled everything. The only actual NOTED thing was the cylinder #5 injector connector had a broken lock tab although it seemed completely seated. On the reinstall it got zip-tied.
All things put together again for the THIRD time and............ it runs as perfectly as I could hope for a 17 year old car. There may be a bit of a coolant leak, but more likely some got spilled when we filled the system.
SO, kid is happy and he's going to fix up a couple little nitnoid things that bother him on the interior.
In summary..........
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned plugs
Ensured all connectors are tight and secured
REPLACED RIGHT SIDE CATALYTIC CONVERTER
That is all.
Now it runs again, so JOB DONE.
Quite a bit less work (and $$$$) than replacing the entire engine like the idiot "Professional Auto Repair" shop wanted to do.
Still need window trim and some caulking some edges, but I'm happy with it. No lift yet, but I blame that on too many tropical vacations so no funds available right now.
A bit older of a picture:
Cee Jay,
Good luck with your project, and if you need any parts, there are two Jaguar dismantlers here in the San Fernando Valley near where I live. So, if I can help you in any way, just PM and let me know what you need, and I can swing by and see what's available.
Those screws do not look normal. He may (I stress may) have suffered a supercharger bearing failure. Have you spun it by hand? It should turn fairly easily and with no evidence of grinding. When the bearings fail the engine will sound like a box of rocks.
Beautiful garage to tackle the challenge in! I think a fairly recent episode of Wheeler Dealers included a supercharger rotor refurb albeit in England. Check on Youtube for S-type R
I remember the search and research for your son’s car. Very disappointing but will be on the up from here on. Keep us posted on the repair progress and findings.
Those screws do not look normal. He may (I stress may) have suffered a supercharger bearing failure. Have you spun it by hand? It should turn fairly easily and with no evidence of grinding. When the bearings fail the engine will sound like a box of rocks.
It spins nicely with nary a squabble or squeak. I see no indications of an interference problem and no gouges or scrapes. Just that flaking coating appearance with a few lateral spots, but the metal seems perfectly fine. The torque isolator also seems fine, although I don't have enough finger strength to really test that.
Rotor coating wear's normal however yours looks like a combination of wear and something not normal which's rubbed on the rotors as well.
I assume you're talking about those rotational slices, for lack of a better term. I paid particular attention to those and found nothing rubbing anywhere. The way I figure, once upon the 90,000 miles since new that a few particles got inside and caused those marks. They are not into the actual metal of the rotors themselves at all, just through the black coating. I checked every area using a bright light and a magnifier. Zero metal marks anywhere.
Since you say the coating is a known, I think this one is good to go! That's at least SOMETHING positive. Speaking of, I do believe the battery is a donor. The first recondition ERRORed out but Six Volts Higher, and the second Recon is only a ways into it.
Any hints to get a light bit of mold off leather, plastic and fabric?
That's good news then! For the leather and plastic, a good ph balanced leather cleanser thoroughly on surfaces. For fabrics which aren't dirty, use peroxide to kill mildew/mold, it's neutral odor won't create unwanted strange scents. The trick's being thorough on all surfaces and keeping the car stored in a low humidity environment.
That's good news then! For the leather and plastic, a good ph balanced leather cleanser thoroughly on surfaces. For fabrics which aren't dirty, use peroxide to kill mildew/mold, it's neutral odor won't create unwanted strange scents. The trick's being thorough on all surfaces and keeping the car stored in a low humidity environment.
Inside my shop in 105f weather in the desert with 15% will do nicely, instead of Seattle with 75% daily with rain 50% of the time.
The first words I got from my son regarding this thing was directly from the repair shop he first visited... "Cat Media Inside Engine, Full Replacement Required". Well I just looked and all they did was remove the blower. The 'Cat Media' was on top of the valley below the blower. Well duh, that is NOT inside the engine. No other bolts, nuts or parts were removed or touched. The 'cat media' was bits of the valley insulation. What frikkin' idiots!!!
So evidently I reinstall everything and start the troubleshooting from the very beginning. I REALLY REALLY HATE shop incompetence. Course maybe all they did was enough to justify to my kid that they needed the $20k, then they would have just done some menial **** and charged him for a different engine anyway.
I can't really blame my kid, his mother stole him (and his brothers) from me when they were all young. Moved them out of state illegally following our divorce. Sorry, sore subject. Step father was a real POS.
ANYWAY, this may not be any sort of big job at all, but I don't have any solid info on what the real first problem was. That's why the REASSEMBLE AND BEGIN AGAIN. Sucks, but that's all there is. It also would have helped if I could have seen this engine in one piece and not half in the boot. Oh well.
The battery is on the third Recondition. It went from .6v to 6.7, then to 9.9 volts. Now I have hope that it'll be enough to at least last through the repair process to see if the car will survive.
Sorry, but what was the reason for bringing it to service in the first place?
Restricted Performance
I just got the history from my kid. Most of it sounds kinda hooey... The black gook on the blower does have a bit of sparklies in it, but after 100,000 miles, wouldn't it? I also remember that Cat Media is a matte grey color. There are ZERO metallic scrapes on the rotors and the bearings are buttery smooth.
I'm going to remove the intercooler as a first step and scope the valves and cylinders best I can. If everything looks okay, I'll replace all the injectors and coils before reassembly. THEN a compression test. I sure wish I could have done that first though. Oh well for me. Plugs if all is well, then a fuel pressure test.
Then the fixing begins...
Does anyone know a quick way to check the flow through the CATS?
07-21-2023, 11:41 PM
Kid's broke XKR, maybe I took on too much?
