Together AGAIN. Still needs coolant. AGAIN.
No, I've not tried it yet, but I DID check for leaks six times while doing the reassembly. AGAIN.

 

looking good.

 

You are soooo much faster at this than me. Must be my gnarly hands, yeah, definitely gnarly hands (cough).

 

I started this thing a couple days ago and something is still not right. It revs WAY too quickly and it also blows even more chunks of catalyst out the tail pipes. I do have a code, P0316, which could be either a vacuum leak OR EXHAUST OBSTRUCTION. Huh. I rechecked the entire intake from filters to throttle body, and all good. I'll see how to smoke test next, but not yet. Spewing chunks is the first thing, so off with the exhaust. I took off the PCV valve and sonic cleaned it. I don't know if these are supposed to rattle like in The Good Ole Days, but I really don't want to spend $90 just to see. Any hints on this? There is full flow both ways, blowing through it. That doesn't seem right to me.
Oh, before that I'll hook up SDD and check whatever it will check, that may give me a hint or three.

 

I don't recall a rattle but - from the manual, "The part load breather is connected through a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, which prevents air flow back into the engine." So per me:-) that means "which prevents air flow back into the engine" indicates that the PCV valve's primary function is to prevent the backflow or reverse flow of air from the crankcase into the engine's intake manifold.

 

Yeah, that's what I've known for years with the old small rattle-type valves. This is the first time I've messed with one newer than 1995 and I've not seen one like this, a disk-type plastic weird thing. I thought maybe there was new-fangled tech that confused me. Guess I charge the kid ANOTHER hundred bucks. His wallet, my labor. I see that as fair.

 

A boring update before a vacation...
The PCV valve operates fine after I cleaned it, now that I figured out how to test it. Made easier by the new one I bought. The test: Hold the valve horizontal above your head and suck through the bottom hole... full airflow. Then block the side tube and suck again..... NO flow when you unblock the side. That's the ONLY thing it does, is block flow when vacuum is present. I am describing this like a moron, I know. Regardless, the old valve operates identical to the new one, so I thanked Amazon for the test part and then I returned it. $50 saved!

Next step when I return in ten days will be to remove the back box and attempt to get all the gunk out of it, like more chunks of the catalyst that keep blowing out the tail end. It already has the resonator delete pipes, so that makes it easier.

Then I ran SDD on what I could, and all the modules came back as Fully Operational.


The weird thing is though, the P0316 isn't present in the ECU anymore for codes, just a bunch of LOW VOLTAGE stuff. Maybe that's due to the battery being disconnected so often.
Anyway, nothing more for over a week as I'll be in MUCH better weather. Palm trees, sun, sand and all I could possibly eat and drink.



(Resort photo, not mine)

 

You and your son must be ecstatic, perhaps you more so. You're a good dad, nothing changes that...

 

No, not taking the KID, this is for the wife and I. He can go do his own vacations. Now, if he ever gets married and has his OWN kids, I can take them to a more family-oriented place like I do with my daughter and her family.

 

I think JA is talking about fixing up the Jag.

 

😂😂😂🤦🏻‍♂️

I was talking about the car……

 

That's what I figured, but it was fun to say the other stuff.

 

LMAO. I saw what you were doing there. Thanks for the directions on the PCV test btw.

 

Back from vacation! Bah, it's cold here. Oh well. Another six weeks and wifey's birthday vacation will be nigh. More sun, sand and palm trees.

I removed the rear box off the exhaust and beat it with a rubber mallet. Some crumbs of broken cat media fell out but I didn't hear anything rattling around. I also used a shop vac on it and didn't get much. I'll use my 700 CFM leaf blower on it tomorrow with wifely assistance so I can check the airflow out each pipe, but I don't think there is much left inside.

I started it up without the box and it sounded pretty good, except for an obvious misfire. It still idled 'okay' after it exited open loop, but still that telltale POP a few times a second. I ran TORQUE on it and got a Cylinder 5 misfire and a Misfire On Startup code, and that is all.
Either I failed to connect an injector or coil properly (several locks are broken, ziptied a couple), or there's a bad coil or injector.
Originally from the incompetent initial shop there was supposedly a cylinder #5 misfire, but no way for me to verify since everything was in pieces. Maybe a bad injector and I moved it from #3 TO #5? Possible. I did ultrasonically clean them all and did check for clicks, but still maybe a bad one.

I talked to the kid and he said if I don't find a loose or broken connector somewhere to go ahead and get new coils and injectors for both 3 and 5. Local parts places have crazy prices for coils like around $65 or so, and nobody near me has injectors even to order, I can get one from Advanced on a 7-day order, but it's stupid-high at like $125.
Rock Auto has some for $25 & $50, so there's that. Probably Amazon also (who sent me that link? I can't check while typing).

SO.................. off comes the throttle body, EGR, plenum, coolant crossover, supercharger, intercoolers and ALL THAT CRAP one more time.
Gads, I'll never work on another OEM supercharged engine again in my life. They SUCK. Can't even LOOK at the coil and injector connectors because they are buried. I used to swap coils with two bolts, two connectors and three minutes.

Therefore, more to follow once I force myself to disassemble this mess again.

It's always something, ain't it?

 

Why not wait till you get the exhaust system back together. That misfire might go away.- Amazon has coils for the Jag - I got mine from there.

Does the SDD monitor for misfires - not sure if SDD can be run with the engine running - auto guy near me said I had misfires on 6 and 8 with his Snap-on tool at start up - I replaced all plugs and coils on that back. It did not affect the poor idle at cold start up. Car runs fine otherwise.

 

I ran it before I took the exhaust off, it did misfire. I figured if I found a big ole mess of cat in the pipes it may fix it. No such luck, so I tried without. Partly to hear the cool noises.

 

UPDATE!!!!
(sort of)
Yeah, I ain't done a danged thing since I drained the coolant in preparation of taking the intake off AGAIN.
Not all because of slacking though, wife had some medical stuff going on but it's about resolved now.
Sad thing is that now I have to get the heater going so I don't die in three minutes from hypothermia.
The only thing required now is new injectors and coils, mainly because I do NOT WANT TO take this stupid top end off again, EVAR!!!!!!!!!! Gadzooks, what a royal pain in my butt. What idiot put the intercooler over the top of the heads? Plus over the stupid blower?

 

@Cee Jay any updates on this? Were you ever able to get this project across the finish line?

 

It's on the tail-end of a Winter Hold. Sure, I have a heater in the shop, but it wasn't fun to grab hold of steel tools that were still at 20 degrees fahrenheit. The entire engine at 20 degrees also. Besides that, the kid has another car and no place to park this one regardless. He doesn't want it back yet, so I've not had any urgency.
By this weekend I'll probably get back at it as that kid wants to visit and help out a bit so he can learn since being raised mostly by his (ugh) mother three states away and didn't learn a danged thing.

 

I'm not exactly sure what this "winter" thing is that you're referring to, but it doesn't sound like something that I want to experience any time soon. 😎

Joking aside, appreciate the update. Keep us in the loop once you thaw out and get back to it. Cheers.