As I stated in my post #33, above, "the MUS4.3 is a newer model with more features" than the 3300. The 3300 hasn't been discontinued AFAIK, and is just one of several models from which to choose depending on your needs. Is the MUS4.3 a "move up in quality" compared to the 3300? I doubt it; just more features, but I'm not an electrical engineer.

Note that the MUS 4.3 is not sold outside of the USA - that's what MUS means -Multi U S. Similar models are sold in other markets with different names. See CTEK's website: http://www.ctek.com/

 

Bocatrip and others:

If you have/own the CTEK 3300 connected now, you can simply buy the CTEK MUS 4.3 that is mentioned in the video above (Post#35) and use it with the Comfort Extension Cord that you have. The quick connect (Comfort Extension cord) plug is interchangeable with the CTEK Brand.

You will need to remove the eyelets and the CTEK 3300 unit and simply replace the eyelet connection with the MUS 4.3. Use the same connection points.

As for new, I never stated the CTEK MUS 4.3 is a new charger. It is newer than the 3300, more advanced in technology and features, but has been on the market for a few years.

CTEK has now improved the MUS 4.3 in a newer model yet for those who also want a test device built into the smart charger.

CTEK has developed the CTEK MUS 4.3 Test and Charge were you can test the 1) battery voltage 2) The cars starter 3) and the cars alternator all built into one unit along with the 8 step charging capibility.

I have not seen any CTEK smart chargers sold in the USA with an On & Off switch. The CTEK units have a built in on & off switch were the smart charger turns it itself on and off within the unit and switches or advances from one step to another.

The CTEK MUS 4.3 Test & Charge sells for about $15.00 to $20.00 more for the added test features vs the CTEK MUS 4.3 without the test & charger



If you think the Test features would be a benefit to you, then you may want to consider this unit vs the CTEK MUS 4.3 ... 8 Step unit.

As for myself, I have a battery test load instrument, and currently use the CTEK MUS 4.3 which I feel is superior to the 3300 model due to the 8 step process vs the CTEK 3300 4 step process.

The previous CTEK 3300 models I owned were sold over on the Corvette Forum for those who wanted a smart charger. I sold them for $50.00 each plus shipping and they were bought within 1 day.

I used the proceeds to offset the cost of the CTEK MUS 4.3. So I advanced my smart chargers for less than $20.00 each to the newer 8 step process.

I could not be happier. CTEK is always advancing their respective technology. While I am inclined to buy 1 of the MUS 4.3 Test and Charge models, I don't really need it do to the other testing instruments I already own.

Hope this info helps.

 

Richzak, My existing eyelets (from the 3300) are connected to one battery terminal and a ground in the trunk. The comfort cord then goes directly to the connection at the other end of the eyelets which I then plugged into the CTEK 3300. Why is it necessary to remove the existing eyelets that came with the 3300? Are they different from the MUS 4.3? I want to do a simple plug and play by just replacing the charger itself and leaving the existing eyelet connection to my battery and comfort chord alone. Will this work? The order I have for the connection is as follows: Battery-eyelets-comfort cord-battery charger-extension to wall outlet.

 

Bocatrip:

Yes, you are OK to proceed.

I did not fully understand your hookup. Yes, just acquire the new charger and connect. Nothing else to do. I had my setup the same way, only my 2009 is a 4.2L and I do not have the battery monitor so I was able to connect directly to the 2 battery posts (Positive and Negative).

On your 2010 XK, you have correctly made the connection to the trunk ground and positive battery terminal.

Proceed.

I am sure someone will buy your CTEK 3300 here from the forum. Price it right for about $50.00 + postage and it should sell immediately.

Any other q's, just ask.

Richard in New Mexico

..

 

Not sure why no one has mentioned this but for the cleanest, most professional and easiest install, I recommend the comfort indicator.

It's a quick jack installed in the trunk area and provides a 3 level indicator light to tell you if you need to connect the car to the tender. I love it.

CTEK Comfort LED Indicators

 

That is a very nice indicator cable, personally it would be no use for my situation. I hook up every week and there has never been a time that it didn't need a charge, it doesn't matter how low it is I weekly top-off the charge to hopefully extend the battery life.


Since I have an older Schumacher maintainer that only has the clamp style connection, so I spliced in my own quick connect wires bought on Amazon:




I bought four, one each for the car, motorcycle, and jetski. The last one I permanently attached to the maintainer clips (backwards so the polarity will be correct when attaching).

 

That's what I did, I have the connector hanging out the back of the boot when plugged into the tender cord, and the tender itself in in an electrical outlet three feet behind the car. The indicators are easy to see, and disconnection is a snap. Even if I forget to disconnect it, the connector at the boot pulls apart easily and nothing is damaged. I've not actually FORGOTTEN it yet, but hey.

 

I have the in-line one with the cigarette plug adapter.

 

Is that so you can smoke outside the car?

 

Nope gave them **** up 30 years ago. The only smokin you do with the Jag is the rear tires.

 

Great accessory for the CTEK, but wire harness is quite short and I did not want to install in the trunk and have to open the trunk all the time to see the indicator nor rewire the indicator for a longer connection. In addition, this accessory would be good if you cannot see the CTEK unit itself.

Every CTEK I have has it's own LED Indicator lights on the unit. I can open the door from the house to garage and see the row of LED's on the unit. I always know what level of charging or maintaining the CTEK is in.

In the image below it is clear to see that the battery is at max level step#7. LED #8 won't light up until the car sits for 10 days. Then the CTEK goes to level/step 8 with a pulse charge to maintain the battery at top levels.

Click the image to enlarge.
..

 

Sorry to hear about your battery drainage issue. I have stated in the past that I believe that not all XK's have a battery drain issue. Some do and some don't. My 2007 xk has been running for over 100,000 miles without a battery maintainer. I have even left it in the garage for a 3 weeks and it started right up with no issues. Heck, I don't even lock the doors half the time and I still have no battery drain issue.
I do not know what is causing your issue, but for me, putting on the CTEK is not fixing the problem, it is just dealing with the problem.
Many others here will disagree with me, and insist that it is normal for modern car with all of its electronics to drain a battery in a short period of non-use and that putting a CTEK is the solution; I disagree. It is not normal as far as I am concerned and you definitely have a problem.


I am very curious as to 'what' and 'when' the drain is happening. Thinking out loud here, let's look at a few scenarios:

#1. The alternator is occasionally lazy and not doing it job right> it is not keeping the battery "properly" charged all the time. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. However, if you use the car almost everyday, you do not notice anything wrong. Basically the problem is masked with daily driving. This is a hidden problem that you won't notice until it sits idle for a couple of days and by then the battery is too dead to start the car. In this case the lazy alternator is the culprit. So then you go and put a CTEK maintainer on it, and it appears that you fixed the problem. But you really didn't. You just found a way to deal with a lazy alternator. In addition, when the technician tests the alternator, it tests just fine.

#2. The alternator is good, and its doing its job however, you have a bad lazy battery. Again, you put a CTEK on it, things look great again, but again you did not fix the problem of a bad lazy battery. Of course when you have the battery tested - it test just fine.

#3. Your alternator is good, your battery is good, but you actually have a legitimate battery drain. Maybe you can isolate it by pulling fuses one by one until you find the one that is causing the drain. Very annoying procedure to do but it might work in narrowing down the culprit.

Maybe you do need a new alternator and / or battery even though they are "testing" fine. Just because something tests good (at that moment) does not mean it is good.


At this point there are a few people here who are ready to pounce and tell me how wrong I am about not using a CTEK [even though I do not need one] and that everybody raves how great it is. I do not doubt that it does a great job to maintain a battery, my opinion is that your car has a problem and it needs to be corrected.


Flame Suit is on!

 

Its not a drain issues folks!! I know its hard to get your arms around this, but it will save you aggravation.

Its a battery charge profile issue.

Let me try to explain it another way for the tenth time. A regular car battery lasts forever regardless of how much you use it or how much you charge it.

Your Jaguar AGM battery has a life that is directly dependent on How Much you charge it.

So if you use 20% of the battery before charging, you will get 1500 cycles.
If you use 80% before charging you will get 300 cycles.

Here is what is happening. If you drive only 20 minutes- you will deplete the battery eventually down to 80% because you are not charging enough. So let me explain. If each time you drive the car yo are 5% net negative on draining the battery- after 16 times your battery will be down to 80%. Now even if you dont have a deficit every time you drive, your battery will only last 300 days.

 

OEM batteries for 4.2L X150 models are conventional, wet-cell/"flooded" type.

OEM batteries for 5.0L X150 models are AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) type.

The 4.2L/5.0L alternator charging profiles are different, but 4.2L owners have reported no problems when upgrading to AGM and using a quality battery maintainer such as a CTEK that is designed to be used for both types of batteries. The factory says to replace with the same type as OEM, apparently because of the different alternators.

Never replace an OEM AGM battery with a conventional wet-cell/flooded battery, except temporarily in an emergency.

 

My 2010 XK has a "flooded" battery, not AGM.
Replaced once by dealer, unless they put the wrong battery in the car (I purchased used, and got some of the service records).

 

Yup, wrong battery.

 

Guess I'll have to take the cover off and look again, as I haven't done that since I installed my CTEK 2 years ago. Would there be any documentation that the car is supposed to have an AGM, I don't find it in Topix?

Thanks.

 

From what I have seen/read there is a difference in the 4.2 vs the 5.0 charging systems. Unless it can be determined different from my understanding I would think there would be less issues with the 4.2 cars. For you 4.2 folks try the voltage experiment. If you have a lighter type volt meter or an OBDII Torque gauge set up check your voltage when you get into the car. Then start it and check to see what it goes to. From what I have heard it will run at a constant 14.2 volts at idle all the way up the rev range. Those that can please verify. That being the case the battery is always in a charge state. This is no different then most conventional charging systems . This is how my 2010 Lexus runs and I have had it since new and it still has the OEM flooded battery with no issues. It also has a lot of the creature features as the Jag and I have never locked it at night. I suspect the 4.2 cars will work the same way . I know my 5.0 does not act the same and based on the latest articles on the "new" charging systems there are significant differences . My net is do what works for you . Ctek or no smart charger , you need to live with the results.

 

(Deleted; duplicate post)

 

I have an AGM- no way could I use an AGM if my car was not made for it. They have different charge profiles. AGM charges different than regular SLA batteries.

Make a big fuss at the dealer- (if you know where it was) their carelessness could have caused a fire or damaged your charging system.