Latest water pump part number
#1
Latest water pump part number
Hi all, Since our water pumps have been updated so frequently it's not always easy to get the latest part number for the 2010 XK 5.0 water pump. Is it C2Z31587 or as another post has it for AJ813909? Also, what are the most common plastic parts that dealers replace in addition to the pump? Thanks everyone for your help.
#2
#3
Agreed. The latest water pump is AJ813909. Here's the history, from my thread in the XJ Forum:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-132537/page6/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-132537/page6/
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bocatrip (08-27-2018)
#4
Thanks all!
My XK is in for water pump replacement right now as well. Will keep an eye on the part number.
My dealer suggested not to swap any other parts than the water pump when I asked. Also not the front cross over pipe. Keep in mind my 2011 car has less than 10k miles on the odo.
As per my request, the coolant liquid will be entirely renewed. Serpentine belt... they didn’t mention it.
Br
ter
My XK is in for water pump replacement right now as well. Will keep an eye on the part number.
My dealer suggested not to swap any other parts than the water pump when I asked. Also not the front cross over pipe. Keep in mind my 2011 car has less than 10k miles on the odo.
As per my request, the coolant liquid will be entirely renewed. Serpentine belt... they didn’t mention it.
Br
ter
Last edited by Ter11; 08-27-2018 at 02:43 AM.
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bocatrip (08-27-2018)
#5
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Queen and Country (12-09-2018)
#6
#7
Try to see if they left any coolant on the undercover. If you are able to I would try to get a hose down the inner undercover and wash as much of any coolant overflow left there as possible. to expedite the removal of any smell caused by the excess. Good luck and let us and know how you make out.
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#8
#9
I mentioned in the other thread also.... I had a slight coolant smell for about 1 month after water pump replacement. The dealer that did the work did rinse off the parts and the underbelly but residual coolant obviously remained, probably in the nooks of the engine valley. That's ok though as the coolant level did not change once it bled (about 2 days after I had to add about 5oz).
All that said, ~6 months later, I get an occasional faint wiff after I pull in the garage and shut down the motor. I check the coolant level weekly still.
Coolant leaks and remnants of it are the devil for those of us who stress over the little things (me)
All that said, ~6 months later, I get an occasional faint wiff after I pull in the garage and shut down the motor. I check the coolant level weekly still.
Coolant leaks and remnants of it are the devil for those of us who stress over the little things (me)
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guy (02-10-2019),
Queen and Country (12-09-2018)
#10
Dropped my car off at a different Jaguar dealership after 4 years using the closest one to me. Asked for an oil change and told them about my coolant smell and having to add coolant (very small amounts of a few ounces). Called me and told me pressure test showed no leaks. Told me my brake fluid was very dirty and I need tires even though they have 7/32nds left. My brake fluid was changed 2 years ago. Dirty?? Ha ha. Need tires because they are 8 years old? Yes I know tires should be replaced after 6 years but there is no sign of dry wall cracking and always garaged. Looks like dealership wants to perform a Walletetectomy? My car now has 10,400 miles on it. I guess I'll have to live with the coolant smell and keep an eye on my level. I've exhausted my options as I've taken it to 2 Jaguar dealerships and one Indy who had also checked the weep hole and found no evidence of crusting or coolant. With the amount of driving I do...(500-700 miles per year), I'm sure I'll pick up on it if it progresses. I have 1 1/2 years left on my Easy Care extended warranty but don't think I'll be using it.
Last edited by bocatrip; 08-28-2018 at 11:48 AM.
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MarkyUK (03-25-2020)
#11
Dropped my car off at a different Jaguar dealership after 4 years using the closest one to me. Asked for an oil change and told them about my coolant smell and having to add coolant (very small amounts of a few ounces). Called me and told me pressure test showed no leaks. Told me my brake fluid was very dirty and I need tires even though they have 7/32nds left. My brake fluid was changed 2 years ago. Dirty?? Ha ha. Need tires because they are 8 years old? Yes I know tires should be replaced after 6 years but there is no sign of dry wall cracking and always garaged. Looks like dealership wants to perform a Walletetectomy? My car now has 10,400 miles on it. I guess I'll have to live with the coolant smell and keep an eye on my level. I've exhausted my options as I've taken it to 2 Jaguar dealerships and one Indy who had also checked the weep hole and found no evidence of crusting or coolant. With the amount of driving I do...(500-700 miles per year), I'm sure I'll pick up on it if it progresses. I have 1 1/2 years left on my Easy Care extended warranty but don't think I'll be using it.
Last edited by bocatrip; 08-28-2018 at 08:50 PM.
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MarkyUK (08-28-2018)
#12
Hi all
Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly.
Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm.
No need yet to add coolant.
The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this...
Br
ter
Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly.
Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm.
No need yet to add coolant.
The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this...
Br
ter
Last edited by Ter11; 12-09-2018 at 05:16 PM.
#13
Hi all
Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly.
Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm.
No need yet to add coolant.
The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this...
Br
ter
Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly.
Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm.
No need yet to add coolant.
The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this...
Br
ter
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Queen and Country (12-09-2018)
#14
Mine went in for it's first annual service with me two weeks ago.
When doing the safety checks they advised that mine is showing no signs of leakage so It would be best to leave alone
So do tell, how does a new purchaser of a vehicle with little service history (apart from the Jag stamps) tell whether their car has had a new one installed by an Indy, or even DIY, can a visual inspection identify? Ask as remember reading somewhere that the pump physically needs to be removed to check the part no...which seems a little farcical
When doing the safety checks they advised that mine is showing no signs of leakage so It would be best to leave alone
So do tell, how does a new purchaser of a vehicle with little service history (apart from the Jag stamps) tell whether their car has had a new one installed by an Indy, or even DIY, can a visual inspection identify? Ask as remember reading somewhere that the pump physically needs to be removed to check the part no...which seems a little farcical
#15
Try UV Dye
Ter,
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test.
Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking.
Good luck finding the leak.
Stuart
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test.
Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking.
Good luck finding the leak.
Stuart
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tractioninc (04-25-2019)
#16
Ter,
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test.
Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking.
Good luck finding the leak.
Stuart
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test.
Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking.
Good luck finding the leak.
Stuart
My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise.
Br
ter
Br
#17
In my case, while the actual leak could not be found so far, the coolant smell comes clearly from the front of the engine. As far as one can tell mostly from the area below where the black air intake hoses join, i.e. above the water pump.
My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise.
Br
ter
Br
#18
In my case, while the actual leak could not be found so far, the coolant smell comes clearly from the front of the engine. As far as one can tell mostly from the area below where the black air intake hoses join, i.e. above the water pump.
My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise.
Br
ter
Br
#19
Guys may I offer an alternative way to not have any coolant worries.
This is one of the cars where a leak does not matter- and we may have been brainwashed into believing it catastrophic...bear with me.
One one hand you have folks who cant find the leak despite extensive testing- on the ulcer chart I give this a 9.
Then you have guys who have preemptively replaced the water pump with the correct one, and they still smell coolant. This is a 10 on the chart.
So what we have irrefutably established is that even the attempts to cure the ulcer gives us no relief and does the opposite.
There is a way it can be managed and nothing catastrophic can happen.
Know that this engine can run a minute with no coolant and no damage. Enough time to pull over.
So it seems to me it would be easier to simply be vigilant.
Monitor the engine temp. Check the coolant level. Check the oil**
If something blows, it will do you a favor and show you exactly where the problem was.
** if you notice coolant low, once every 4months siphon out the oil and check for water, put it back in.
3 of my daily drivers loose coolant, even the ones I have changed the water pump on. Doesnt bother me. Now if I ever saw a drop on the floor, I would make sure to track down the cause and fix it, as it will kill someone's pet.
This is one of the cars where a leak does not matter- and we may have been brainwashed into believing it catastrophic...bear with me.
One one hand you have folks who cant find the leak despite extensive testing- on the ulcer chart I give this a 9.
Then you have guys who have preemptively replaced the water pump with the correct one, and they still smell coolant. This is a 10 on the chart.
So what we have irrefutably established is that even the attempts to cure the ulcer gives us no relief and does the opposite.
There is a way it can be managed and nothing catastrophic can happen.
Know that this engine can run a minute with no coolant and no damage. Enough time to pull over.
So it seems to me it would be easier to simply be vigilant.
Monitor the engine temp. Check the coolant level. Check the oil**
If something blows, it will do you a favor and show you exactly where the problem was.
** if you notice coolant low, once every 4months siphon out the oil and check for water, put it back in.
3 of my daily drivers loose coolant, even the ones I have changed the water pump on. Doesnt bother me. Now if I ever saw a drop on the floor, I would make sure to track down the cause and fix it, as it will kill someone's pet.
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#20