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Thanks for that, I will have a look and see if I can get a slightly longer festoon.
Incidentally, on my car at least the 41mm (or thereabouts) festoons were too long for the trunk lamps and lower door lamps, I found that 36mm festoons were a far better fit for mine.
Yes, I do recall running into the same problem (bulb being a little long) in the cargo area and door. But I simply bent the metal holding tabs by hand to make a good fit, there was plenty of room to make the adjustments for the longer bulbs, so I didn't have to get another size. I can't remember but my guess is that you could probably do the same for the overhead light with your shorter bulb, the metal that holds the bulbs is thin and and can be manipulated to adjust for small differences without any risk of breaking...
This is a fantastic write-up. Thank you! It will save me a ton of experimentation.
Two questions if I may:
I presume replacing these bulbs did not trigger any warnings - correct? I imagine you would have said so - but just checking.
Second, the interior bulbs come on gradually (fade-in) when turned on. How do the LED bulbs react to this fade-in? I suspect they are not dimmable, so do they just turn on, perhaps after a short delay?
This is a fantastic write-up. Thank you! It will save me a ton of experimentation.
Two questions if I may:
I presume replacing these bulbs did not trigger any warnings - correct? I imagine you would have said so - but just checking.
Second, the interior bulbs come on gradually (fade-in) when turned on. How do the LED bulbs react to this fade-in? I suspect they are not dimmable, so do they just turn on, perhaps after a short delay?
Many thanks!
- No warnings.
- As to fading in, my interior lights just come on when you open or unlock the doors remotely, but they do fade out when locking the car.
Anyone have any luck with LED bulb turn signals? I kept getting a error code even with error free bulbs
I don't know why my car is different but it seems no matter what bulbs either error free or not, I have tried in the side markers and the one that's closer to the headlight lamp, I also have LEDs in my license plate and all the smaller bulbs in the taillights are also LED. What's strange I do not get any error lights no matter what bulbs I use, but if I do a scan with the dealer diagnostic tool only then I will see the error codes for these bulbs.
I don't know why my car is different but it seems no matter what bulbs either error free or not, I have tried in the side markers and the one that's closer to the headlight lamp, I also have LEDs in my license plate and all the smaller bulbs in the taillights are also LED. What's strange I do not get any error lights no matter what bulbs I use, but if I do a scan with the dealer diagnostic tool only then I will see the error codes for these bulbs.
Alex, did you put LED in the actual turn signals or just the side markers? I was under the impression that the Turn Signals would give an error?
I never liked blinding light in the cabin, so the only replacement I did was the foot wells with red. Of course I also drive with the instruments dimmed and touch screen off.
On the XK I even dropped the overhead and replace the green LED with red to shine on the shiftier.
For the license plat light, I used LED, but the brightness was just too damn much, so I cut a blackout panel for each side which covered all but 1/4 of it. Much better having the white light, and not the street light intensity.
I never liked blinding light in the cabin, so the only replacement I did was the foot wells with red. Of course I also drive with the instruments dimmed and touch screen off.
On the XK I even dropped the overhead and replace the green LED with red to shine on the shiftier.
For the license plat light, I used LED, but the brightness was just too damn much, so I cut a blackout panel for each side which covered all but 1/4 of it. Much better having the white light, and not the street light intensity.
I've never seen a 'red light district' X150, I think it may look a little conspicuous when curb crawling??
I've never seen a 'red light district' X150, I think it may look a little conspicuous when curb crawling??
A medical reason you've gone for red?
My Audi convinced me that a blood red cluster and switch lighting was by far the most eye friendly color for night driving.
I went from the Audi to a Lexus, which had a painful bright white cluster which really sucked. Trading up to the Jags green was only a minor improvement.
Red has always been the preferred color for the human eye and improved night vision, and I was pleased at how comfortable my eyes were with red. If I could shift the whole Jag t blood red with ease, I'd do it in a heartbeat!
I have replaced all of the bulbs in my car with the exception of the front and rear turn-signal lamps, and the rear stop lamps. All lamps were replaced with LEDs, except the main headlight bulbs which were replaced with new D1S 35W Xenon lights. I benefited greatly from the advice here (thank you ALL for your wonderful information and especially TexasTraveler). I'll add my own experience here, below, in case it is also useful to others. I won't show images of the results unless asked because Texas’ images are excellent.
First - the results are exactly as I'd hoped - fantastic. Inside and out, the lights are bright, crisp and white. It took 10 years off the age of the car at night. Plus I don't have to worry about burned-out bulbs. Already two of my car-enthusiast friends immediately started planning their LED conversion on seeing the car.
Living in Canada, I bought all my bulbs on Amazon.ca - so these links may be more useful to my Canadian brethren than our US, UK, Australian and other friends abroad. Sorry about that. Love Amazon or hate it, it saved me days of driving to different stores, and a lot of money I suspect.
OK - here are the bulbs I replaced, what I replaced them with, and any notes that come to mind that might be useful to others.
Headlamp unit (see headlamp image below)
Side marker (#1 in image) W5W. I used BULB A (see bulb list at bottom of this posting). This bulb (A) was used extensively in the conversion and I am very happy with their performance and how they look. They also faded in and out nicely in the interior applications.
Turn Signal (#2 in image) - did not replace
Dip and main projector unit (#3 in image) D1S35W. I replaced these with new Xenon. I also took apart the headlamp unit to clean the projector lens and the inside of the unit. Great results. See the discussion here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ailing-224587/
Side Lamp (#4 in image) W5W. I used BULB B. As many people have noted, most LEDs, being a bit larger than originals, are hard to get in to the side-lamp location. However, I found the shape of BULB B went in easily. I like the look of BULB A better, but used B for the side lamp as it was easy to install in the tight space.
Cornering Lamp (#5 in image) H8. I used BULB C. I wish I had found the bulbs I used for the fog lights before I bought these ones. These are fine, but the light pattern is not as uniform, and these ones have a cooling fan incorporated - which may fail one day.
----------------------------- Front Fog lamp H11 55W. I used BULB D. I really like these bulbs. The illumination is uniform and there is no fan. They are also less bulky than BULB C. So as long as they don’t overheat and die, they would be my first choice.
------------------------------ Rear unit (see tail lamp image below):
Side Marker W5W. I used BULB A. Excellent results.
Direction indicator. These were not replaced as I suspect it would produce an error.
Stop and Tail P21/5. These were not replaced as I suspect it would produce an error..
Tail Lamp W5W. I used BULB A. Excellent results.
---------------------------------- Side Repeater Lamps (see image below):
I used BULB B. I found these units hard to remove without breaking them. On one side, the lens detached from the base - so I glued it back together. For reassembly, I applied a bit of silicone spray lube and it helped a bit. Note that these lights flash with the turn lights, but replacing them with LEDs did not produce any errors or fast-clicking turn signals.
Other Lights:
Rear trunk (boot) interior lights 41mm festoon. I used BULB E. These were a little too long for this (and all the Festoon bulb) applications. But they provide good light and can be installed with just a little pressure on the lamp-holder contacts. If I had to do it over, I'd try shorter festoons - maybe 39mm or even 36mm.
Vanity Visor Lights T5. I used BULB F. These are great and nice and bright. They are a little white for looking at one's face, so maybe a slightly warmer light might be better. Note that they are hard to get into their socket without shorting the contacts. I went through one fuse doing so. Also, I found that in this case and a few other cases, latex gloves were super handy to get some grip to remove the old bulbs.
Overhead console light 41mm festoon. I used BULB E. As above - a little long, but work like a charm and fade nicely.
Door puddle lights 41mm festoon. I used BULB E. As above - a little long.
Foot-well (interior) lights W5W. I used BULB A. These are nice and bright and fade in and out nicely.
Glove Box Light W5W. I used BULB A.
Overhead map lights W5W. I used BULB A - as noted, they fade in and out nicely.
License Plate Lights W5W. I used BULB A. Very nice and bright.