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I had a problem with my Mustang w/ high volume water pump sucking the lower radiator hose closed. I went to the auto parts place and perused their entire selection as this was a totally custom setup and nothing OEM would even come close (9.2 liter V8 in a Mustang II) and found several radiator hoses with large springs inside them. I bought the longest of those, took the spring out and put it in the hose I already had and trimmed it to fit. Never had a collapse occur after that.
Although I will say, that stuff that comes out is pretty thick and sludgy, not sure I would risk my automotive syringe on that - maybe a 1 time use syringe.
Makes you wonder how bad the intercoolers look inside after all that smog goes through them.
When I had my intercoolers off my 4.2 SC engine, they were essentially inoperative due to soft carbon build up. This was at around 100k miles. I would hazard a guess that
they were clogged around 50k miles.
That is why I installed a catch can. Also why I installed a meth/water system.
I am thinking about those mods to my 2013 Range Rover which is NA however I suspect the valves have carbon build up because of the DI system.
Issue is that I probably would need to clean those valves before installing anything and that could be expensive.
When I had my intercoolers off my 4.2 SC engine, they were essentially inoperative due to soft carbon build up. This was at around 100k miles. I would hazard a guess that
they were clogged around 50k miles.
That is why I installed a catch can. Also why I installed a meth/water system.
I am thinking about those mods to my 2013 Range Rover which is NA however I suspect the valves have carbon build up because of the DI system.
Issue is that I probably would need to clean those valves before installing anything and that could be expensive.
Can you post some photos of your catch can setup please.
Here's an update on mine ... a few hundred miles on the car and no significant amount oil in the can. Looks like it is doing a good job but you can tell there is still some getting through.
I'm going to add a baffle or 2 to the can and see if it can pickup some more.
That seems like a good can. Extended baffle all the way down. I may experiment with a setup like that.
According to the manual, the valve covers have built in separators in the form of a mesh, wonder what they look like.
For now I tried this ... cut up some aluminum mesh I had laying around and stuck 3 layers inside. Dipstick still fits in there with no issue. We will see how much more it picks up.
Was also able to unscrew the can without having to detach any hoses. So overall very happy with the setup.
They make non-rusting ones, even copper ones.
Ranchero is right that "mesh" above is not a mesh in the engineering world. It more like a net, it will do f-all.
Also oil prevents rust.
Reading this thread alarms me. and why we should rely on professionals.
They make non-rusting ones, even copper ones.
Ranchero is right that "mesh" above is not a mesh in the engineering world. It more like a net, it will do f-all.
Also oil prevents rust.
Reading this thread alarms me. and why we should rely on professionals.
There will be quite a bit of water vapor passing thru hence the point I made.
They make non-rusting ones, even copper ones.
Ranchero is right that "mesh" above is not a mesh in the engineering world. It more like a net, it will do f-all.
Also oil prevents rust.
Reading this thread alarms me. and why we should rely on professionals.
I consider myself a semi-pro at this point =] ... at least when it comes to MY car.
Problem with the brillo is I had to shape it so the dip stick will go down. I'm considering more of a tubed design like the one in the video, and possibly sticking some brillo in there.
Other problem with the brillo is I do not trust every one of those strands holding together. I shaped it once fairly gently and had shards coming off of it. Not something I want flying into my intake.
I consider myself a semi-pro at this point =] ... at least when it comes to MY car.
Problem with the brillo is I had to shape it so the dip stick will go down. I'm considering more of a tubed design like the one in the video, and possibly sticking some brillo in there.
Other problem with the brillo is I do not trust every one of those strands holding together. I shaped it once fairly gently and had shards coming off of it. Not something I want flying into my intake.
The actual volume of air flowing through the PVC system should be quite low. You'll only flow as air as blow by you have. An interesting tidbit from Total Seal is when you use their gap less piston ring sets is to install a bushing in the PVC hose with a 1/16" drilled hole through it because they allow so much less blow by. You get blow by around the piston rings, head gasket leakage and the valve seals.
Other problem with the brillo is I do not trust every one of those strands holding together. I shaped it once fairly gently and had shards coming off of it. Not something I want flying into my intake.
Ranchero buggered this up by using the word "brillo" and sent everyone imagining that crap that is made from compressed shards and pink soap.
We use brass / copper mesh for cleaning the tips of soldering irons- which can absolutely have no shards (whiskers).
Search for Copper mesh cloth, it can be shaped in any shape, from cylinder to a ball.
Catch cans work. And there is quite a bit of air flow and its not only due to blow by since theres an air intake on the other valve cover for fresh filtered air.
I am installing a Moroso catch can. Its has a drain on it. I will post a puc later.
Any idea where I can get adapters to use on the pcv valve outlet and the plastic tubes quick disconnect? I didnt want to cut my plastic hard line on my ‘06 STR.