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If this applies to my use of that verb (absorb) I have ask if you looked at these first photos which show a very clear difference in the amount of Autoglym on the leather surface from the time of application to the next photo 35 minutes later.
The Autoglym conditioner, according to the label, is made up of several elements (soaps, oils and proofing agents) and no mention of water (but that does not necessarily mean that there is none).
Would you say that the elements mentioned on the label would EVAPORATE in a 35 minute period in a cold garage? Does it look as though there is a solidified residue on the seat at this 35 minute point?
I am trying to get to an evidence-based (not opinion-based) observation, thus photographs taken at noted periods. The next time I will be able to take photos will be about 12 hours from now, but I will be able to state the next time period specifically.
The stitching in your pictures is white though? So you wouldn't really know if it leaves a residue on the stitching like Autoglym says it would.
So I had this exact question and called Autoglym directly last week. The woman on the phone was very helpful and we talked for about 15 minutes. She ultimately recommended using only the cleanser because the leather on the f-types are coated and the conditioner will do nothing but sit on top. She also said that it would leave a white cast on any stitching and since I have quilted seats it would be an even worse idea. Autoglym is the actual supplier for Jaguar's leather care products and I would think would know quite well...
If I understand correctly, a person at Autoglym (which makes the Leather Balm) told you that this product will not work on modern automotive leather, as in the F-Type (and therefore the colour coated leather in every modern leather-trimmed car) and that the conditioner will leave a white cast on stitching. Hmmmmm.....so they make a product (whose label clearly refers to modern leather as needing conditioners) which in ineffectual.
This is more than odd. Does that make ANY sense? If this product is not to be used on modern coated leathers, why do they make it?
Back to the photo record of the Autoglym conditioner on the F-Type leather:
The Autoglym Leather Balm applied yesterday at 3 pm at an ambient temperature of about 7 degrees C:
and 35 minutes later the second photo which shows that much or most of the product has been absorbed:
and this morning, 11:30 am, slightly more absorption, same ambient temperature; note that there is no longer any white residue:
and after about 30 seconds of light buffing with a microfibre cloth, the surface is soft and smooth with no residue:
and a close-up of the stitching : do you see any white residue? If so, your eyes are far better than mine. There is no residue. The leather is soft (this is the premium Windsor leather):
My comments reflect a 30-year experience with Jaguar leathers which has shown me the benefit of regular use of non-silicone conditioners. More visual evidence:
This photo below is of the seat in a 1992 V12 Vanden Plas on which a conditioner was regularly used (in this case Leatherique). The photo was taken in 2012 so the leather was at this point 20 years old. As you can see the leather is as new - note that there is no shrinkage of the leather. It is soft and smooth (this is Connolly Autolux leather). The piping is perfectly straight:
Now, in contrast, the seats in another V12 Vanden Plas, not treated with conditioner. The leather has dried and shrunk, pulling the piping into a distorted form. The passenger seat is even worse than the driver seat. The leather has not been conditioned (ever) and shows the effect of sun and heat. This damage cannot be repaired.
If I understand correctly, a person at Autoglym (which makes the Leather Balm) told you that this product will not work on modern automotive leather, as in the F-Type (and therefore the colour coated leather in every modern leather-trimmed car) and that the conditioner will leave a white cast on stitching. Hmmmmm.....so they make a product (whose label clearly refers to modern leather as needing conditioners) which in ineffectual.
This is more than odd. Does that make ANY sense? If this product is not to be used on modern coated leathers, why do they make it?
Back to the photo record of the Autoglym conditioner on the F-Type leather:
The Autoglym Leather Balm applied yesterday at 3 pm at an ambient temperature of about 7 degrees C:
and 35 minutes later the second photo which shows that much or most of the product has been absorbed:
and this morning, 11:30 am, slightly more absorption, same ambient temperature; note that there is no longer any white residue:
and after about 30 seconds of light buffing with a microfibre cloth, the surface is soft and smooth with no residue:
and a close-up of the stitching : do you see any white residue? If so, your eyes are far better than mine. There is no residue. The leather is soft (this is the premium Windsor leather):
My comments reflect a 30-year experience with Jaguar leathers which has shown me the benefit of regular use of non-silicone conditioners. More visual evidence:
This photo below is of the seat in a 1992 V12 Vanden Plas on which a conditioner was regularly used (in this case Leatherique). The photo was taken in 2012 so the leather was at this point 20 years old. As you can see the leather is as new - note that there is no shrinkage of the leather. It is soft and smooth (this is Connolly Autolux leather). The piping is perfectly straight:
Now, in contrast, the seats in another V12 Vanden Plas, not treated with conditioner. The leather has dried and shrunk, pulling the piping into a distorted form. The passenger seat is even worse than the driver seat. The leather has not been conditioned (ever) and shows the effect of sun and heat. This damage cannot be repaired.
I rest my case.
At first I thought you were just a quirky dude that loves his soft leathers but it's getting a bit weird man. They told me I could apply the conditioner but to avoid the stitching if I could. When I told them I had quilted leather they said then it would be best to just use their cleaner because the black stitching would show a residue. In your example you very possibly can't see any white residue because your stitching is...white. All your other vehicles look older and so would probably benefit from conditioner more than modern leathers.
At first I thought you were just a quirky dude that loves his soft leathers but it's getting a bit weird man. They told me I could apply the conditioner but to avoid the stitching if I could. When I told them I had quilted leather they said then it would be best to just use their cleaner because the black stitching would show a residue. In your example you very possibly can't see any white residue because your stitching is...white. All your other vehicles look older and so would probably benefit from conditioner more than modern leathers.
Ready to give up here, but Ill try once more. Why should you trust what I say?
Well, any comments I make come from my experience. I have owned and restored Jaguars ranging from the mid 50s to the current models, more than 40 of them (yes, but my wife is an enabler and considers owning 4 or 5 at the same time as normal). 21 of these (yes, 21) were Series III XJ models from 1982 to 1992, a 1965 S-Type, my 1966 Mk2, an XJ40, an X300, two X350 models, 3 X-Types, an XJS convertible, an X308 (XJR), an X150 (XK), an F-Type and a modern S-Type and I have probably forgotten a few. Every one of these has been brought to concours winning condition because I am obsessive, many of them being North American JCNA Champions. I am also a JCNA Concours judge. I know what the Jaguar leather should look like and I am familiar with the various types of leather Jaguar used over the years), how to recondition and recolour it and how to preserve it. I also know when it is beyond saving. I have used everything from Hide Food to Leatherique so I have a pretty fair idea of how to use conditioners and which work and which do not.
And I can tell the difference between white stitching and white stitching with residue. Really, I dont know what else to tell you. And I probably am quirky
Aight - applied Glymp at 10:24 - took first pic, let stand till 10:40, took pic, let stand till 10:55 took third pic - 23 C in room:
Thank you, sir. This was about what I expected, and about what the picture of the seat looks like although you used much more goo on the glass than is on the seats.
My position remains unchanged.
But hey, if anyone likes using this and has results he's happy with, I'd never say "Don't Do That".
Carry on.
Thank you, sir. This was about what I expected, and about what the picture of the seat looks like although you used much more goo on the glass than is on the seats.
My position remains unchanged.
But hey, if anyone likes using this and has results he's happy with, I'd never say "Don't Do That".
Carry on.
In the first pic you can see that there are thin smears of Glym. By around 11:15 it was all about gone so the stuff has volatiles that evaporate
Here are my seats - not cleaned for a while (and only using a damp cloth for 8 years of ownership) and I maybe used the AutoGlymp once - tried it on the dash (really not impressed). I'll probably do two more shots tonight to see if I can reduce the shine/glare. You can see (in the red boxes) scratches that have taken off the leather clear coat.
03-22-2024, 09:42 AM
