For various reasons my XK was driven less than 400 miles (mostly highway) since the last oil change 1 year ago. As expected, the “service required” warning now presents on startup indicating time for an oil change. With this exceptionally low mileage interval should I change the oil anyway since this is apparently based on “time” alone and not on oil integrity?

 

Internal combustion engines produce carbon monoxide and water vapor, among other things in the exhaust. When the engine is shut off and cools down, any residual water vapor remaining in the cylinder heads will condense into liquid and drain down past the piston rings and into the crankcase. Water causes rust that can damage an engine.

An oil change is cheaper than an engine repair.

https://www.sae.org/publications/tec...ontent/250030/

 

Stuart, I see the engine uses a dipstick. Does the XK also use an oil condition sensor? (new here, learning the XK) Thanks!

 

Oil Changes are once per year by default because of what Stuart said. Well, one year after the Service Reset is performed.
Your 2007 has a dipstick, the 5.0 models have an Oil Level Indicator on the dash.
Nothing checks any oil condition, I've never heard of that.

 

Thanks, CJ. BMW went to them with the N52, around 2005 or so. Analyzed the oil wear condition through a capacitative sensor, as well as the actual oil level in the sump. Posted the variable remaining useful oil life on the dash. Pissed a lot of people off when they eliminated the dipstick around the same time. I missed the dipstick, but the Condition sensor did an OK job.

What are the XK's oil mileage recommendation in addition to the year? Thanks!

 

The manual states that the mileage recommendation changes based on use and environment.
10,000 miles IIRC is for "ideal" conditions.

I would say that # of cold starts is likely more relevant than miles.

 

Absolutely agree on cold starts. We also used to note something we called "short trip" syndrome -- where a car had many trips to the store instead of onto the highway with 4-6K engine speeds. Normal performance began to decline over time, engine idle smoothness began to degrade, oil wore out much faster, the sump sensor got flaky due to water condensation etc. Somewhere in the Bimmer ECU was a data field that measured the number of starts and hours driven. I wonder if I'll find that in the XK?

 

Do you have an Owner's Handbook? The oil specs are in there. If you don't have one, buy one on Ebay. Also, the "stickies" at the top of this X150 Forum include links to download the 4.2L and 5.0L service manuals.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...guides-215509/

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I have the same problem:

Oil changed, and complete service, and even requested additional things ( spark plugs and battery changed and all hoses thoroughly checked ). Transmission and differential oil also flushed and changed, but at another service station. Transmission oil filter, too.

Now I´ve driven 3.000 - 3.500 kms ... the oil on the dipper stick looks totally transparent and clear!

I have read, that annual oil change preserves the engine ... but my mechanic told me, at THAT low mileage, he would recommend factory recommended oil, but at 2 years intervals. Yes, some short trips, too, but motor is driven always until warm.

What shall I do?

Thanks in advance, Hermann

 

Hermann,

Your car, your money, your choice.

Don't let your car sit for months without starting the engine. Be sure to start it every month and let it run until it reaches operating temperature, and then let it run for another 5 minutes. That'll keep the engine lubricated and help dry out any residual water.

You have a 4.2L and the engine oil is available from many brands and is inexpensive. Here's the 4.2L oil spec from the Owner's Handbook:



Stuart

 

Your car though the "service" message most likely because of suggested time interval, not oil condition. Ersae the message and you're good.

 

I appreciate the advice from all forum members. Jaguars manual on the 2011 XK does not specify maximum mileage for an oil change, though there are other references available that indicate that oil should be changed once per year or every 15K miles. I've read that most enthusiasts would change the oil at much lower annual accumulated mileage. As you know there is no dip stick--only an electronic minder ticking away time from the last service reset. I now understand that condensed water vapor in the oil from frequent short run times becomes the major offender on low mileage cars between oil changes. It is not the deterioration of the oil due to combustion products and breakdown of the actual oil product and detergent additives. I'm happy to get it changed as the expense is relatively minor even though the process becomes more complicated by the pandemic. Though I still wonder (as suggested by one member) if the regular running of the car to operating temperature plus more time will accomplish the necessary "burn off" of the water-product-of-combustion contamination thus preserving the overall oil protective character and inhibiting the subsequent corrosion caused by the water when it comes in contact with bared engine internals in the event the oil itself runs off the metal surfaces in storage. At this point, I'll just get the oil changed so in the end the point becomes moot. And I'll change the filter too, it's a minimal expense--but technically does the filter really need to be changed? It seems that particularly is completely unneeded given the circumstances.
Thanks to all.

 

Dear Sir!

Thanks!

Now, I´ve heard several arguments about letting the engine run.

MY 2 cts: an engine should at least be running every 6 weeks.

So twice during the winter break it has been and will be. ( 2 starts over winter: 3 x 6 weeks = 18 weeks )

I´ll try the engine turning without starting this time for some seconds first ( pedal to the metal and starting ), then running engine for at least 5 - 7 mins - waiting for the fan to blow warm air.

Metal should not be without lubrication, so re lubrication is needed occasionally. Engaging the transmission and moving the car forward and back for one meter several times is good for the tires, and will lubricate transmission and differential, too. As the garage is of course opened during this, I look for a not so cold winter day.

Warm engine is not only necessary for the oil to get to "normal" status, but also for the exhaust system, so I was told. To get condensation water out of there, too.

I have the car for not so long, but it has low mileage ( bought it with 42.000 km ), and my mechanic said, it has not seen salt yet ( checked it inside and out ).

I want that car to last.

Have fun, stay safe, Hermann

 

Engine wil not be thoroughly warm 5-7 minutes.
You add water(condensation) to engine and exhaust with engine only running in 5-7 min.

Never ever had a problem by letting my cars or motorbikes sit for 5-6 month wintertime and then starting it up.

 

I also recommend against periodic start ups, if you start the car you want it to reach fully operational temperature in all of its components. This is hard to do with just idle. Otherwise you are just increasing amount of condensation inside your engine.

Instead, I focus on minimizing downsides of winter storage. Where I live, winter results in storage for 5-6 months. I do following: a) fill with no-ethanol gasoline and put in fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel degradation b) change engine oil prior to storage (doesn't have to be exactly right before) c) pressurize tires to +5 PSI to avoid flat spots c) disconnect car battery (and taking care not to lock myself out) d) store it inside under breathable car cover.

If I store car for 3+ years, then I also do following: 1) drain gas tank and fuel lines 2) completely remove the battery, as it can leak even when disconnected 3) fog the engine (on a modern DI car running it is not advisable due to potential damage to 2-stage fuel pump running dry if you do it after draining all fuel, on a classic car with carburetor is rather easy - just running while spraying car cleaner and fogging agent) 3) spray oil-based rustproofing on exposed metal parts (e.g. exhaust headers, exhaust, driveshaft - it will smoke a lot when you start it) 4) put dryer sheets inside and mothballs outside to reduce critter risks 5) stuff rag into intake to fully block it (also don't forget to write yourself a note or you might forget!) 6) lubricate ignition, door locks, and driver's door hinge prior to storage 7) put the car on stands to unload tires.

 

So I have been told elsewhere, too.

But we ALL do short trips with our beloved ones!

So, during Winter, that´s just TWO more "short trips".

IMO the car has "to live" with that amount of water / condensation.

I DO NOT KNOW, but I BELIEVE, that non lubricatng the engine might be worse. I do not know, how much turning the engine w / o starting lubricates.

Just my 2 cts.

I do it this way, I take my chances

I use stabilizer in tank, fill up, drive some kms.

I DO use CTEK. A small one - the 5.8. It´s just for sustaining.

I DO push the tires to 3.5 bar.

I DO use a cover and car is clean underneath.

Garage is dry, and, until now, animal free ( except the Jaguar )

Have fun and thanks to all, Hermann

P.S.: who said, only idling? ;-)

 

As far as oil changes go here is a little story:
Years ago my local bike shop were servicing a little 400cc Honda - the bike had 150,000 miles on the clock. For a 70s small motorbike that is like death x 4.
The shop told me never needed anything bar some new clutch plates. However the owner insisted on one thing, change the oil every 2000 miles regardless.

Since then I have changed every 2000 miles or 12 months - I have learned that time takes its toll too, various issues.
Every single engine on all my cars and bikes look like new, nothing has ever broken in any engine I've ever had, or worn for that matter (I never thrash them cold). For the low cost of it I wouldn't even consider anything less.

As for start up over winter - my head says do it to get oil around the bearings etc. Apparently the biggest cause of motorbike wheel bearing failures comes from being stood and a little rust forming on the dry spot etc. With my older Japanese motorbikes you get away with not running simply by turning the engine over with the choke off for 30 - 40 seconds, all the oil gets pumped around the engine at a low speed. However the Jag will fire up in a couple of seconds with its auto choke etc, and what worries me is the speed the engine is turning before the oil has had a chance to get around all those moving parts - cams, bearings, bores etc.
I have a private road going to my house as we live in a modern development, so it doesn't get salted. I drive the car up and down it every couple of months, car plugged into CTEK when its in the garage

 

I´ve made up my mind: I will change the oil yearly.

BUT I will let it be done in the SPRING.

Because now, after only 3.000 km and a half year, I have a not new, but relatively good oil. For a little lubrication and rust protection this should do.

Then oil change, and when I speed up in spring I have fresh oil, and if I do more kms next year: no problem.

Thanks to all, Hermann

 

Hermann, just as you have decided, I will change the oil on my XK with very low mileage since the last service. When I called and asked the question to Jaguar they responded with the company line to change the oil at one year--no matter the limited mileage. If possible, I think it would be best to do it before the storage for the winter. Fresh oil with as little as possible accumulated contaminates of any kind sitting in the engine undisturbed for several months sounds to me like a better strategy, IMHO. The oil is still fresh in the Spring and you have the added benefit of having the car "ready to cruise" when the weather is nice again.

 

I have too many cars to really change oil due to mileage any more. But I *do* perform annual oil changes regardless. It's a relatively cheap insurance against all sorts of issues.