Lowering Springs Comparison
#61
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Albert, have you posted pics of your car with the spacers installed and I just missed it? I've been thinking about this as well... if I do replace the wheels at some point, I thought maybe I'd get something with a slightly different offset to push the wheels out just a hair. It does seem like there is room for them to go outward under the fenders. Glad to hear the spacers worked out!
Albert
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TheMCP (05-25-2012)
#62
#63
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Albert
#64
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Albert, I love the look of the Mina exhaust. That's the first thing I'm doing the minute my car is delivered.
I'm trying to imagine what 20" wheels would look like with the spacers. It seems to me that the rears might stick out just a hair too much.
I also have to say that the pre-2010 front end matches the simple, smooth, graceful, and flowing lines of the rest of the car much better than the 2010-2011 front end, and especially better than the 2012-2013 front end. I really like the fact that you have the chrome only on the upper grille. That makes the lower grille disappear and puts all the focus on the upper. Very nice!
I'm trying to imagine what 20" wheels would look like with the spacers. It seems to me that the rears might stick out just a hair too much.
I also have to say that the pre-2010 front end matches the simple, smooth, graceful, and flowing lines of the rest of the car much better than the 2010-2011 front end, and especially better than the 2012-2013 front end. I really like the fact that you have the chrome only on the upper grille. That makes the lower grille disappear and puts all the focus on the upper. Very nice!
Last edited by aahmichael; 05-25-2012 at 03:02 PM.
#65
#66
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For the front tires the wheel/tire is 12 mm inboard. For the rears they are 8mm inboard.
You should be able to do the same on your car and simply add 20 mm to the sidewalls or wheel rims to picture where they would be with the spacers.
Albert
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aahmichael (05-25-2012)
#67
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Ha...ha...ha... that's a good guess... but, no need to do that. My house is in the Sierra Nevada foothills, about 20 minutes uphill from Sacramento. Views as far as the eye can see on a clear day and no signs of neighbors or any man-made structures. Always wanted to live in a wilderness settings (that is still close to shopping and amenities). This is it.
An other plus; plenty of winding roads for fun driving with minimal traffic. You see more deer out here than people or cars. Also, right on the South Fork American river where I can practice my whitewater kayaking hobby nearly every day. Life is good....
Albert
#69
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That would be a good compromise but, do check your own car just to make sure. Use the same method as I described in the post above to know for sure where your tire/wheel will end up in reference to the fender lips.
Pacio had some kind of plastic cover over the fender lips. I do not and my inside fender lips are sharp plastic and sheet metal. I would not want any contact with the tires as it could cut the sidewalls.
Figure that in most spring and damper applications you will need about 1.0 - 1.5" wheel travel for all around driving. So, you should be able to push the wheel up that much without touching the fenders. That should be your ultimate goal. My NOT lowered car has now 2.5" before touching the fender lips.
Albert
Pacio had some kind of plastic cover over the fender lips. I do not and my inside fender lips are sharp plastic and sheet metal. I would not want any contact with the tires as it could cut the sidewalls.
Figure that in most spring and damper applications you will need about 1.0 - 1.5" wheel travel for all around driving. So, you should be able to push the wheel up that much without touching the fenders. That should be your ultimate goal. My NOT lowered car has now 2.5" before touching the fender lips.
Albert
Last edited by axr6; 05-25-2012 at 03:41 PM.
#70
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Did you investigate using the shorter springs from the 2011 XKR175 or XKR-S which are factory lowered? Sorry if I missed it somewhere. Have you installed the Mina gear yet?
#72
#73
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I will chime in on this thread.
I have a 2010 XKR Convertible. I replaced the stock springs with XKR-S/175 springs. These are supposed to be 28/32% stiffer.
Drop - None on the rear, about 1/4" on the front. Virtually invisible change. Preserves clearance over parking stops, etc.
Ride: Noticeiably firmer, but nowhere near abusive. This car is my daily driver and it is still comfortable enough to be a daily driver.
Handling:
WOW! There is virtually no body roll now. For the first time I feel I can predict how the car will respond when thrown hard into turns or 270 degree highway ramps or quick transitions. I love it!
Be forewarned if you ask your dealer for XKR-S springs they require the VIN from an XKR-S. However I assume these springs are the same as are being sold on new XKRs as part of the Dynamic Pack, so you could probably ask for those springs.
I have a 2010 XKR Convertible. I replaced the stock springs with XKR-S/175 springs. These are supposed to be 28/32% stiffer.
Drop - None on the rear, about 1/4" on the front. Virtually invisible change. Preserves clearance over parking stops, etc.
Ride: Noticeiably firmer, but nowhere near abusive. This car is my daily driver and it is still comfortable enough to be a daily driver.
Handling:
![Icon Mrgreen](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Be forewarned if you ask your dealer for XKR-S springs they require the VIN from an XKR-S. However I assume these springs are the same as are being sold on new XKRs as part of the Dynamic Pack, so you could probably ask for those springs.
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Panthro (03-28-2016)
#74
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I just took my XKR in to the dealership due to "Cruise Control NOT Available" alert. I was told that the technician could not obtain a diagnostic reading from my car. After further research and talking to Jaguar tech support in Mahwah, NJ, they think the problem was generated by lowering my car by 1.3". Apparently, there is a radar unit inside the front bumper that needs to be re-calibrated because of lowering the car.
Has anyone else had this problem after lowering the car? The dealer says this is not covered under warranty because I lowered the car and it will cost $400 or 3 hours of time to remove the bumper and recalibrate the radar.
Thanks for any input.
Has anyone else had this problem after lowering the car? The dealer says this is not covered under warranty because I lowered the car and it will cost $400 or 3 hours of time to remove the bumper and recalibrate the radar.
Thanks for any input.
#75
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will chime in on this thread.
I have a 2010 XKR Convertible. I replaced the stock springs with XKR-S/175 springs. These are supposed to be 28/32% stiffer.
Drop - None on the rear, about 1/4" on the front. Virtually invisible change. Preserves clearance over parking stops, etc.
Ride: Noticeiably firmer, but nowhere near abusive. This car is my daily driver and it is still comfortable enough to be a daily driver.
Handling:
WOW! There is virtually no body roll now. For the first time I feel I can predict how the car will respond when thrown hard into turns or 270 degree highway ramps or quick transitions. I love it!
Be forewarned if you ask your dealer for XKR-S springs they require the VIN from an XKR-S. However I assume these springs are the same as are being sold on new XKRs as part of the Dynamic Pack, so you could probably ask for those springs.
I have a 2010 XKR Convertible. I replaced the stock springs with XKR-S/175 springs. These are supposed to be 28/32% stiffer.
Drop - None on the rear, about 1/4" on the front. Virtually invisible change. Preserves clearance over parking stops, etc.
Ride: Noticeiably firmer, but nowhere near abusive. This car is my daily driver and it is still comfortable enough to be a daily driver.
Handling:
![Icon Mrgreen](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Be forewarned if you ask your dealer for XKR-S springs they require the VIN from an XKR-S. However I assume these springs are the same as are being sold on new XKRs as part of the Dynamic Pack, so you could probably ask for those springs.
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