I've been "mulling" over doing a full transmission flush - the price for the Zf life Guard is around $88 CAD a litre - I can get the stuff shipped from the states for $31 CAD per litre plus shipping.

After digging around the net I came across a forum post stating that the Lincoln Navigator with the 6 speed ZF 6hp26 uses Ford Mercon SP:

CHEAP TRANNY FLUID ZF LIFEGUARD 6 and Metal Transmission Sump Pan - Page 2

Apparently the SP has been replaced with the Mercon LV - but there is some debate about mixing the 2 on forums.

Mercon SP is available on Amazon.ca for $11.08 CAD for a quart.

 

The theory as I understand it is that the TCU is programmed to the specs of the fluid. Variations will impact performance. This makes sense and chemically, Mercon is supposed to be the same as ZF (argumentative to many but there have now been too many real world experiences in the X350 forum to continue to debate this imo). The users have made the switch without having to reflash the transmission.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-160391/page2/

Do a full flush if you're going to migrate to Mercon. This isn't your grandfathers TH350. Transmissions are very dependent on the TCU software, so use the Mercon but don't mix it.

Also, don't know if these guys ship to Canada, but if you go with ZF, the change doesn't require a full flush.
http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-jaguar-102.html

I also spotted several listings of ZF lifeguard 6 on eBay for about $29.40 per liter CAD.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/7-Liters-Auto...FVwvpG&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the link to the other thread - interesting read...

I have looked at that kit from thectsc and have been thinking about buying it and an extra 6 litres of ZF fluid and doing the job myself swapping the fluid twice.

Still thinking about the Mercon Sp though..

Does anybody know why they include that sleeve in the kit and why it has to be replaced - As far as I can tell from the service manwell it carries the electrical connections so why change it out??




11 - Electrical connector – guide sleeve

 

The mechatronic sleeve develop leaks over time. When the pins get wet your TCU will act up. Even if yours is dry now, it's worth swapping out with the new one over the OEM. The O-rings are improved on the newer ones.

So even if you move to Mercon, swap the sleeve. I think they run about $20 U.S. on their own so it's a cheap part. Some vehicles start leaking @ 50k miles, others 110k miles....

 

The sleeve is a fairly common source of leaks, it can't be changed without dropping the pan so it makes sense to replace it when the pan is off.

 

Good to know about the leaks - thanks. I'll get "her" done..

 

Interesting link here:


ZF 6HP26, 6HP28 Transmission Fluid Service Procedure

 

This is interesting from Patrick the Cat's () excel spread sheet:






So if there is not that much difference between the specs on the Mercon SP vs ZF it makes me wonder how an aging and used ZF oil in the transmission would be at still at those original ZF specs?


Just thinkin'

 

Hey McJag222, the link above doesn't address the blending of fluids or is his refill assuming he's doing a filter change with the system already flushed and replaced with Mercon as a starting point? We can't know.

At any rate, I don't advocate blending the oils. If you go with Mercon, take it to a shop and have them do a full flush, or DIY. With Mercon it won't be expensive.

Here's the specific procedure from ZF. Note that it's similar to your attached. As it doesn't drain the entire system, you leave about 4 liters of oil in the system, but that's their procedure.

I did mine using the CTSC process and the procedure attached. This was on my SV8. I plan to do my XK shortly but we've been blessed with an extended driving season this year so it's still in use.
Note, regardless of what you use related to fluid, when you follow these instructions, Do the first action in Step 2 first. Loosen the fill plug. It's a B*&#@tch to get loose and if you can't break it loose, then for god sake, don't drain the fluid because there's no way to fill it.

 

Sean - I don't know if the guy is mixing the old ZF with the Mercon - I'm guessing he is because he's only talking about draining the fluid and adding through the side of the transmission - but really he isn't that specific. I was more interested in the "Shifting Adaptations" he described.

I'm either going to use the kit with the ZF or get my local shop to do a complete flush with the Mercon SP after replacing filter etc.

They said if I wanted to do the flush with my own sourced (from the US) ZF fluid it would not be a problem - most shops seem to shy away from customer sourced products.

Thanks for the ZF pdf.

Mac.

Edit:

Note, regardless of what you use related to fluid, when you follow these instructions, Do the first action in Step 2 first. Loosen the fill plug. It's a B*&#@tch to get loose and if you can't break it loose, then for god sake, don't drain the fluid because there's no way to fill it

Right.....


Shop changing fluid on an S type - looks very similar to the process for the XKR



And it only takes under 6 mins......

 

Shell produces Mercon SP for Ford Motorcraft at the Houston refinery. The actual spec from Jaguar in their documentation is Shell ATF M-1375.4, and not ZF's LifeGuard 6 specifically, however, ZF states use their fluid. This is because ZF used to hold the rights to the additive pack, but no longer. Originally, Shell's Spirax MSP was the same color as LG6, however, the current production is colored red. You can buy cases of Motorcraft Mercon SP from Ryder Fleet a little under $6 a quart. Do not use Mercon LV. Do not use in 8 speeds calling for LG8

https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.ne...en-CA)_TDS.pdf

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/mo...p-p-w83-xt6qsp

 

Another easy method of getting the fill plug out is to grind some of the end off an 8mm allen wrench. Give it a wrap with a deadblow hammer, or use a small cheater if too tight to get it loose by hand. Easy peasy.

 

Thanks David. This is the additional documentation I mentioned above that I was looking for and it was from you so I appreciate you weighing in.

Confirmed within the document "Suitable for use in applications calling for Shell ATF M-1375.4."

 

Too funny. The benefits of editing. I documented my experience (timings) for others on the X350 forum.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-done-153701/

The Torx bolts were a bugger and I stripped out quite a few, also busted a couple of torx heads, even though I saturated the top and bottom of the screw holes with PB Blaster. I think next time I will pour coca cola along the top side, then PB blaster the next day. Regular Coke is a terrific rust buster.

The nice this about the CTSC kits it that you get larger bolt heads so the next go around is less time consuming.

 

You can visit your local Mopar dealer and pick up a can of Chrysler Accessories 4318039AC Rust Penetrant. It is leaps and bounds better than PB Blaster. Just sayin'

 

Thanks for the info Sean and Box - I just emailed CTSC for shipping rates to Canada.

I was planning on zip cutting down an 8 mm hex wrench.

I was watching another vid last night - the guy sheared off two of his pan bolts - he did claim using a impact with the torx helped - but not on the last two.

I'm a bit concerned about having the same issues..and I'll be jacking up the car and working on my back..

 

Yes, it is, if left on long enough. That's because the Coca-Cola concentrate, which is used to manufacture the fountain syrup, is packaged in a plastic gallon jug that is labelled "CORROSIVE". No kidding.

Don't worry about Coca-Cola causing immediate damage to your intestinal tract. Because the concentrate is so diluted, you'll drown before you can drink enough for the syrup to cut holes in your intestinal tract and kill you. The sugar in the syrup is more likely to eventually cause health problems.

 

One thing I learned 50 + years ago was never drain anything without removing the fill plug first. Just sayin

 

Well I have the advantage of a lift but order the extra tor screws from CTSC. I think they send you some but just order all.

The screws go though the pan and transmission. While lying on your back, you'll be able to feel the end of the screw when you reach up.

So if the screw starts to strip, I just took a needle nose vice grip and started breaking away the pan around it. It relieves enough pressure on the screw head and gives you enough room to grip the torx screw head with the vice grip, and using both torx bit and vice grip, they'll break free.
Feel free to mangle the plastic plan as you've already committed at tis point but be careful not to dig in too deep and chew into the transmission.

The plastic breaks fairly easily, remove the ones that come easy first and then you'll only be left with 5 or 6 buggers.

I think I broke a screw head on one but once the pan drops I could unscrew the remaining with my fingers. It's important to let the de-rusting work and since you're just going to let the transmission drain overnight, apply it a few times.

 

Yep, it seems obvious to many, but others are inclined to follow instructions to the letter and in the order written, especially if they've never tackled a job. Removing the fill plug is a step out of order imo.

I hope I'm not insulting anyone's intelligence. Not my intention.