Misfiring on 4 cylinders and white smoke from exhaust
#1
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So I was driving my 2011 XKR 70k miles on the highway the other day and got restricted performance mesage and blinking check engine light . Took a exit and stopped on traffic light, then I tried to accelerate and huge white smoke came out from exhaust and rpm were not stable. So I parked the car on a sidewalk, run diagnostics and this came out. that it was misfiring on cylinder 2,4,6,8, Also there was strong gasoline smell, I checked coolant and it was at min level but still there and smelled like burned fluid but it was clear. I tried to start the engine but it was making few knocking noises and wouldn’t start. towed the car to my home garage. Also, when i removed oil cap the oil smelled like gasoline. I'm not sure what to do now… any ideas ? Too add I had water pump replaced 2 months ago. The pulley was lose and making noise but coolant was not leaking at all. is there a easy way to determine if thats blown headgasket, or bad injectors? Thank yoU!
#2
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Stuck Injector! It's fairly common for some reason.
The 'white' smoke has me confused though, as white smoke means water. If excess gasoline was the culprit, the smoke should have been blackish or dark gray.
I'd suggest Don't Drive It! Dumping raw fuel into one cylinder constantly wipes oil off the friction surfaces. The excess fuel can also foul the catalytic converter on that side.
It cost me right around $2000 to get four of my injectors replaces, I did the whole bank. Looking back, I probably should have done the other four for another $1200 since they were there, but too late now. I'll probably do it myself when I swap the valley coolant pipes hopefully this winter.
The 'white' smoke has me confused though, as white smoke means water. If excess gasoline was the culprit, the smoke should have been blackish or dark gray.
I'd suggest Don't Drive It! Dumping raw fuel into one cylinder constantly wipes oil off the friction surfaces. The excess fuel can also foul the catalytic converter on that side.
It cost me right around $2000 to get four of my injectors replaces, I did the whole bank. Looking back, I probably should have done the other four for another $1200 since they were there, but too late now. I'll probably do it myself when I swap the valley coolant pipes hopefully this winter.
Last edited by Cee Jay; 10-27-2021 at 12:48 PM.
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tmich (10-27-2021)
#4
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tmich (10-27-2021)
#5
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I think it was white smoke, it could be bluish white, but it was a lot when i looked back in the mirror when i started to accelerate from that stop light, as soon i noticed it i drove the car for about 300ft and parked it. I tried to start the engine when the tow car came in to put the car in neutral, but it would not start. ... not sure if that is a good or bad sign.....
#6
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Compression test will tell you a lot, but the only real way is to have the heads removed. But I would say you have a blown head gasket or the hardened seal came loose on a valve (my guess from what you wrote), check your oil level if above the fill line, would be a good indication of gasket issue. Also, if you get white smoke, shut the engine down ASAP, as you can cause a bunch more problems by keeping the engine running, like hydro locking and turning a crankshaft.
#7
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It's the fuel smell in the oil that would dictate a stuck injector. The blown head gasket would account for white smoke, but are you SURE it was white, or a thin wispy gray or black...? That's what I don't get.
Search this forum for Stuck Injector, and also search for Head Gasket. Or, use Google for both, but it'll probably reference back to this forum, but with better results.
My bet is still injector, since it's a known issue.
Search this forum for Stuck Injector, and also search for Head Gasket. Or, use Google for both, but it'll probably reference back to this forum, but with better results.
My bet is still injector, since it's a known issue.
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#8
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It's the fuel smell in the oil that would dictate a stuck injector. The blown head gasket would account for white smoke, but are you SURE it was white, or a thin wispy gray or black...? That's what I don't get.
Search this forum for Stuck Injector, and also search for Head Gasket. Or, use Google for both, but it'll probably reference back to this forum, but with better results.
My bet is still injector, since it's a known issue.
Search this forum for Stuck Injector, and also search for Head Gasket. Or, use Google for both, but it'll probably reference back to this forum, but with better results.
My bet is still injector, since it's a known issue.
the smoke was light color, it could be white or grey, it was very sunny day, but im sure it wasn't black, i smelled the exhaust and it smelled like exhaust fumes with nothing funky about it. I wonder why the car would not start after that..
#9
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Cee Jay is right. It's a stuck injector. It has happened to my 2019 5.0L XKR twice. Each time there was an overwhelming smell of raw fuel accompanied by misfiring and a ton of WHITE smoke. Replacement of the injectors on the misfiring bank put everything back in order immediately. Smoke was gone, no misfires, everything back to normal.
#10
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Cee Jay is right. It's a stuck injector. It has happened to my 2019 5.0L XKR twice. Each time there was an overwhelming smell of raw fuel accompanied by misfiring and a ton of WHITE smoke. Replacement of the injectors on the misfiring bank put everything back in order immediately. Smoke was gone, no misfires, everything back to normal.
#11
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I don't actually remember if I restarted or not. I believe the first time it happened that I did restart it hoping it was an electronic glitch but it misfired so badly and had so much smoke coming out, that I shut it down immediately and had it picked up by the towing service. As to the cost, I also don't remember, however, my mechanic who services all of my and my family's cars was very reasonable and quick.
#14
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winter is coming and I don’t need the car for next 6 months but would love to know what the hell happened to it.
will keep you all posted
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#15
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Peter, just went through this on my 2011 XK. See thread here :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-open-251300/
Rock auto had the injectors cheap ($77 or so), so you might want to consider changing them all while things are apart. Plugs should be changed while they are in there, and oil changed to get out any gas that may have contaminated it.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-open-251300/
Rock auto had the injectors cheap ($77 or so), so you might want to consider changing them all while things are apart. Plugs should be changed while they are in there, and oil changed to get out any gas that may have contaminated it.
#16
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Well Thanks for this post I have a Jaguar 2007 XKR that sat in a garage for 10 months and after that the VVT solenoids stuck, spark plugs fouled from the left over fuel and I suspect after reading this that the 2,4,6,8 injectors on this jag need to be replaced from the sounds of it.
As a side note - your issues are similar to another car I had a Cadillac CTS-v - blew the right side head gasket ALL the symptoms you noted here. and yes was fine one day and the next pow. the reason car won't start is one of 2 reasons - Cylinder full of fuel or water - if water in engine and you let sit for a few days by by engine look for a new long block plus top end rebuild and gaskets.
The stuck injector can mimic a thrown rod as the cylinder fills with fluid its becomes a solid and will bloe the head gasket - so the injector fails fills synlinder with extra fluid exceeds the compression pressure of the cylinder something has to go bam there goes head gasket now you have Water and fuel going through exhaust - gas smell and white smoke - if your lucky its just a blown gasket and not a cracked piston - how I know - Jet Skis - what happens on a jet ski when the water is connected first then its started - 1 tables spoon of water in a cylinder and crack a piston and bend the valves. fuel is different is just does not burn and is squirted past the rings makes il smell gassy and the vales into exhaust and burns in the exhaust makes pops and small booms. The fuel in this case filled up so much it caused the piston to lock up for a moment then pop the gasket letting water in - I also had a LS 5.3 with stuck injector I thought engine seized but no puled plug and fuel shot out. bottom line pull plugs and verify and put something in to prevent water from pitting cylinders.
I may recommend you pull the spark plugs at least and put a small amount like 2 tablespoons of transmission ATF III/Iv fluid, Stbil - fuel stanilizer (drying agent) or marvel mystery oil in each cylinder to prevent further damage if you let it sit a long period of time might save the bottom end.
As a side note - your issues are similar to another car I had a Cadillac CTS-v - blew the right side head gasket ALL the symptoms you noted here. and yes was fine one day and the next pow. the reason car won't start is one of 2 reasons - Cylinder full of fuel or water - if water in engine and you let sit for a few days by by engine look for a new long block plus top end rebuild and gaskets.
The stuck injector can mimic a thrown rod as the cylinder fills with fluid its becomes a solid and will bloe the head gasket - so the injector fails fills synlinder with extra fluid exceeds the compression pressure of the cylinder something has to go bam there goes head gasket now you have Water and fuel going through exhaust - gas smell and white smoke - if your lucky its just a blown gasket and not a cracked piston - how I know - Jet Skis - what happens on a jet ski when the water is connected first then its started - 1 tables spoon of water in a cylinder and crack a piston and bend the valves. fuel is different is just does not burn and is squirted past the rings makes il smell gassy and the vales into exhaust and burns in the exhaust makes pops and small booms. The fuel in this case filled up so much it caused the piston to lock up for a moment then pop the gasket letting water in - I also had a LS 5.3 with stuck injector I thought engine seized but no puled plug and fuel shot out. bottom line pull plugs and verify and put something in to prevent water from pitting cylinders.
I may recommend you pull the spark plugs at least and put a small amount like 2 tablespoons of transmission ATF III/Iv fluid, Stbil - fuel stanilizer (drying agent) or marvel mystery oil in each cylinder to prevent further damage if you let it sit a long period of time might save the bottom end.
Last edited by Zippymac; 11-18-2021 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Adding a clarifying note
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Barry Leftwich (12-29-2021)
#17
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Quick Update:
I'm pretty sure my issue is with failing injectors, so yesterday I attempted to get to injectors, it is major PITA to remove all electric connectors to move the wires that are on top of fuel rail.... so my plan is :
Pump out all oil as it is contaminated with fuel and it does smell like gas ... and replace oil filter,
Remove and replace all 4 injectors on drivers sides ( my OBD scanner showed missifre on cylinders 2-4-6-8) I checked an this is driver's side of the engine.
Do I need to replace injectors on passenger side of the engine? I'm not sure if I'm gonna keep that car as it gave me lots of issues already.
Do I need to replace spark plugs? can i replace only 4 or i need to replace all 8th? from the looks of it there is not much space to get to spark plugs and I would like to avoid any extra work that is not necessary.
once I get to remove fuel rail I will order parts and tools to continue that adventure!
I'm pretty sure my issue is with failing injectors, so yesterday I attempted to get to injectors, it is major PITA to remove all electric connectors to move the wires that are on top of fuel rail.... so my plan is :
Pump out all oil as it is contaminated with fuel and it does smell like gas ... and replace oil filter,
Remove and replace all 4 injectors on drivers sides ( my OBD scanner showed missifre on cylinders 2-4-6-8) I checked an this is driver's side of the engine.
Do I need to replace injectors on passenger side of the engine? I'm not sure if I'm gonna keep that car as it gave me lots of issues already.
Do I need to replace spark plugs? can i replace only 4 or i need to replace all 8th? from the looks of it there is not much space to get to spark plugs and I would like to avoid any extra work that is not necessary.
once I get to remove fuel rail I will order parts and tools to continue that adventure!
#18
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You can replace the injectors of Bank 2 without the need to remove anything on Bank 1. Since you must first remove the coil units to access the bolts holding the injector rail, replace the spark plugs as well on Bank 2. The spark plugs use a 14mm spark plug socket.
Be careful when removing the cooling hoses to the supercharger as they can break, or become distorted. Push them in whilst squeezing the tabs with your fingers, then pull directly back. Do not use pliers.
If the injectors have never been removed from the engine before, use a penetrating solution around their bores and allow them to soak for several hours. Make sure the special slide hammer is correctly positioned on each injector and locked in place so the injector is not damaged. It's not uncommon for some injectors to require fifty or more strokes with the slide hammer to remove them. Be patient.
Clean the injector bores thoroughly using brass brushes to remove any carbon deposits around the injector tips. Be sure to remove any dirt in the injector bores before attempting to install the new injectors.
Use the special tool (9899) to correctly size the Teflon seals on the tips of the new injectors prior to installation. DO NOT lubricate the Teflon tip seals. Use a small amount of clean engine oil to make the o-ring seals easier to fit into the fuel rail.
The remainder of the job is the reverse of removal.
Be careful when removing the cooling hoses to the supercharger as they can break, or become distorted. Push them in whilst squeezing the tabs with your fingers, then pull directly back. Do not use pliers.
If the injectors have never been removed from the engine before, use a penetrating solution around their bores and allow them to soak for several hours. Make sure the special slide hammer is correctly positioned on each injector and locked in place so the injector is not damaged. It's not uncommon for some injectors to require fifty or more strokes with the slide hammer to remove them. Be patient.
Clean the injector bores thoroughly using brass brushes to remove any carbon deposits around the injector tips. Be sure to remove any dirt in the injector bores before attempting to install the new injectors.
Use the special tool (9899) to correctly size the Teflon seals on the tips of the new injectors prior to installation. DO NOT lubricate the Teflon tip seals. Use a small amount of clean engine oil to make the o-ring seals easier to fit into the fuel rail.
The remainder of the job is the reverse of removal.
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#19
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Thank you This is very helpful,
I'm using this guide I know this is for f-type but it should be similar.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...p-step-220006/
does new injectors come with orings and teflon seals? or I need to purchase them separately for each injector?
what is the special tool you mentioned? and were i can get it?
I'm using this guide I know this is for f-type but it should be similar.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...p-step-220006/
does new injectors come with orings and teflon seals? or I need to purchase them separately for each injector?
what is the special tool you mentioned? and were i can get it?
#20
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The new fuel injectors come fitted with the Teflon seals and fuel rail o-rings.
Here is a link to a listing for the slide hammer:
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...20Rover,Jaguar
Here is a link to a listing for the fuel injector sizing tool:
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...20Rover,Jaguar
Here is a link to a listing for the slide hammer:
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...20Rover,Jaguar
Here is a link to a listing for the fuel injector sizing tool:
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...20Rover,Jaguar