So, time to change the motor mounts. One of mine was completely separated. A couple of tips and tricks.

1. You can't reach these from the top, so they have to be on a lift. Can't see someone trying to do these on ramps or jackstands.

2. Prep is simple:
a. the wheels don't have to come off, unlike the Maintenance manual (MM).
b. I removed the V-brace on the bottom, 6 13mm bolts, easy. Need to do it to drop the steering rack.
c. As in the MM, the steering rack has to be dropped to get the driver's side mount. Three large bolts drops it a few inches. Be very careful of the connector wires on the steering rack.
d. The steering shaft bolt needs to be removed. This is a major safety issue, per below. Suggest a quick spray of penetrating oil, since on mine there was no grease on the shaft bolt assembly. Use a bungee cord wrapped over the steering wheel, hooked on the base of the driver seat, to hold the wheel on center. Remove the steering shaft bolt at the steering rack and it'll drop down, directed slightly to the right so it drops off the steering connection. Also worthwhile to clean out the gunk/rust on the connection with a brass brush.
e. I used a screwjack to support at the front of the tranny. Raising the screwjack lifted the engine enough to pull the mounts out of their lower fixture. I don't recommend trying to directly support the engine assembly. It was not necessary to support the engine with the usual engine brace. Raising the screwjack gave me plenty of room. Unbolt the bottoms of the mounts first -- they're easy to reach.

3. On the left hand steering version (USA et al), the right motor mount plus engine mounting is easy to unbolt. 4 bolts, 13MM. Lift out the mount assembly, replace the old with the new. 45 Nm torque. Key point: On the four bolts, on left side or right, put all four in about 1-2 cm, with your fingers only. These are very easy to crossthread if you tighten a bolt too soon. Take your time for the first cm or two, and the rest of the bolting is easy.

4. Insert the motor mount into the engine mount and torque the top nut to 63Nm.

5. When the mounts are in their assemblies, the assemblies can be easily rotated so that the bottom shaft drops into it's mount.

6. The driver side is a PITA because of the rack. Even with the steering rack hanging, the two frontmost bolts are hard to reach because of piping. It's critical to leave all four bolts loose enough to get all four bolts in a cm or two. Easy to crossthread (ask me how I know...glad I had a tap/die set to clean one up and do it right on the second try). The engine block is a much softer metal than you think. Insert the top rear, then the front two, then the bottom rear. This give you some slack to push things around to insert bolts properly. Tighten all eight bolts to 45Nm.

7. The steering shaft connector has a bevel on it. The rack mounting has a corresponding bevel. If you cleaned off both surfaces, a bit of oil helps push the rack back onto the shaft connector. It only goes on one way. The three large rack bolts are 100Nm (use the wrench -- it's more than you think it is). The screw on the steering connector is 35Nm.

8. The bottom motor mount bolts are 63 Nm. The manual suggest new nuts on the top/bottom of the motor mount, and a new 10mm bolt on the shaft coupler.

9. Warning: this is your steering system. Failure of the small steering 10mm coupler bolt will kill you if the connector pops off the rack. I used blue threadlock on every bolt I inserted as well as torquing everything I could reach with the torque wrench.

Unlike my BMW's, this was a harder job than it needs to be. Make sure you have a good set of wrenches, with ujoints and wobblies. I also used a flexi-extension on the driver's side front bolts.

Result was very pleasing -- the car quieted down, since I was getting the rumbling of a failed motor mount.

Also, I said eff it to $550 of stupidly priced Jag branded mounts. Used a well regarded Chinese product (by a mechanic I know), identical to ones used on other 4.2 equipped Jag models. Fit perfectly, for $160 the pair.

Good luck. If I missed anything, let me know.

Panthera.

 

Good write up and I've done both on lift and on driveway, released subframe and had resting on small jack whilst engine braced , and all 4.2, 5.0 , 3.0 ftype mounts (providing its rwd) are interchangeable . I'll go one up if your going to do mounts do both at the same time and I'd also be changing out the sway bushes whilst access is available

 

@panthera999 how many miles on your car?

 

87K mi Note that it spent it's life in Florida and New Mexico.

But I bought the car @ 77Kmi, and it's very possible the mount was broken when I bought it.

 

Coincidentally, I had the mounts changed on my '10 XKR last week after my mechanic told me that one was failing. I was a bit shocked at the price of new ones so took a punt on these and they seem to be fine:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005604924423.html

The vendor sells a few bit and pieces for JLR but I don't know if they are OEM or copies.

Unfortunately while it was on the ramp he noticed that one of the front tyres had the liner showing on one inside edge so I have just treated the car to 4 new tyres as well as the rears were close to needing replacing

 

Looks identical. We should get used to finding parts as alternatives to Jag. But then, its a real simple device -- the only difficulty is the hydrobearing center. Probably costs a few $$ each to make.

 

The one review on that site says that it is cast rubber, without a hydraulic filler.