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It may end up being too tight but maybe try putting some shrink tubing over the loose fitting bits.
Unfortunately, it would be too tight - the rear pins only need a very small increase in diameter to make them tighter. If you could wrap them in one layer of cling film, that would be about right - but you'd never get it to stay on the pin when you insert it.
Unfortunately, it would be too tight - the rear pins only need a very small increase in diameter to make them tighter. If you could wrap them in one layer of cling film, that would be about right - but you'd never get it to stay on the pin when you insert it.
How about liquid electrical tape. Brush it on in light coats. It dries into a flexible rubber. It may not stick to the rubber piece though but it should stick to the plastic bit. Then again, it might get scraped off when inserted into the boot lid.
How about liquid electrical tape. Brush it on in light coats. It dries into a flexible rubber. It may not stick to the rubber piece though but it should stick to the plastic bit. Then again, it might get scraped off when inserted into the boot lid.
Hey, can't fault a guy for making suggestions!!
Always worth getting a different perspective. I think the barb cuts are the best option, since they are 'self adjusting' - if you push the barb out a bit more than is necessary, the act of inserting the pin pushes it back again.
You can see that the latch pulls the hexagonal pin towards it, which compresses the rubber and makes the pin fatter, so it stays in the hole. If the latch doesn't squash the rubber enough, the pin will not be fat enough and it will slide out. You can adjust the position of the latch on the pin, and therefore the amount of compression, by screwing the latch up or down the threaded bottom end of the pin when it is open:
In this pic, the latch is open and the rubber is loose. If you hold the hexagonal head of the pin and rotate the latch clockwise, it will increase the pressure when it is closed. Because of the space available for the latch when it is closed, you can only have it pointing towards the back or the front of the car, not sideways - that means your adjustment can only be in half turns of the latch.
To get it right, start with the latch open and the pin not in the hole. Hold the pin and spin the latch around one turn clockwise, then push the pin into the hole & try to close the latch, i.e. push it flat against the cover. If it closes easily, the pin is probably too loose, so open the latch again, pull the pin out and give the latch another turn clockwise. Keep doing that until you find you can't close the latch flat (because the rubber is being compressed too much). Release the latch again, pull the pin out, and spin the latch half a turn ANTI-clockwise. Put the pin back in & try again - keep doing that until the latch will close flat but takes a hard push to get it closed. Now you are at maximum compression and the pin should not fall out.
The rear pins have zero adjustment - they're just plastic pins that fit in the holes by friction. To make them fit better, you need more friction. I made some small cuts at a 45-degree angle with a sharp knife to create little barbs on the pins - only a couple, just enough to give some extra friction:
I hope I've managed to describe what I did to fix the problem in a way that makes sense - please ask questions if something isn't clear.
Thank you very much for the great explanation with those superb pics. I could not fix it anyway, so I thought how could I compress a bit more the rubber. I have added 3 washers and it seems it’s working (look how fat the rubber belly is). Afterwards you don’t see the washers so it’s a clean solution. I post the pics in case it may be of help for anyone:
07-10-2019 | 10:06 AM
