New E-Differential - and Best. Warranty. Ever.
#21
In terms of my comments, I'm suggesting that if you feel the shudder currently, it's like a cavity in a tooth - not going to get better or go away on its own. But if you DON'T feel it now, especially given that the car has some miles on it, probably your diff is fine and I wouldn't give it a second thought. Like I said, I felt it subtly for a whle. In comparison, I don't feel it at all now with the replacement diff.
Also: the warning light came on, intermittently, during a long trip. I'd say I put about 1,000 mostly-highway miles on the car AFTER I first saw it. I never noticed any difference in the way the car drove. As I wrote, one tech pointed out that probably most of the fancy things about the e-diff had been disabled (couldn't put it into Dynamic Mode), and at that point I was simply driving a car with an old-school differential. Had to get it fixed at some point, but wasn't in any peril. Never thought there was any danger of anything worse happening.
I did talk to an experienced indie shop who urged me to go to a dealer. He was the first person who clued me in to the fact that for Jaguar it's an all-or-nothing thing with these diffs. They don't replace internal parts piecemeal. My hunch is that Jaguar knows of this issue this and just swaps them out when certain codes show up.
2010 was the first year of the e-differential. I think it got worked out after that, and like I said my hunch is that the diffs on most cars, even 2010's, are fine.
Hope that helps, and didn't add to any confusion!
Also: the warning light came on, intermittently, during a long trip. I'd say I put about 1,000 mostly-highway miles on the car AFTER I first saw it. I never noticed any difference in the way the car drove. As I wrote, one tech pointed out that probably most of the fancy things about the e-diff had been disabled (couldn't put it into Dynamic Mode), and at that point I was simply driving a car with an old-school differential. Had to get it fixed at some point, but wasn't in any peril. Never thought there was any danger of anything worse happening.
I did talk to an experienced indie shop who urged me to go to a dealer. He was the first person who clued me in to the fact that for Jaguar it's an all-or-nothing thing with these diffs. They don't replace internal parts piecemeal. My hunch is that Jaguar knows of this issue this and just swaps them out when certain codes show up.
2010 was the first year of the e-differential. I think it got worked out after that, and like I said my hunch is that the diffs on most cars, even 2010's, are fine.
Hope that helps, and didn't add to any confusion!
Last edited by pk4144; 07-07-2017 at 12:20 PM.
#22
THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO.
Here's something back at you and you can make $3000
IMPORTANT: Get your original back from the dealer- many would give their right arm to have one. (yes its repairable- by experts) [I had the same problem with GM Suv, which ironically I bought new in LA- went through 2 new entire rearends under30k miles. Then I took it to a pro who actually fixed it]
If you need help with the transportation and storage, I can easily have the guys at my factory take care of it all. There will be a crate right there- its simply needs a calltag and we have tons of space.
Here's something back at you and you can make $3000
IMPORTANT: Get your original back from the dealer- many would give their right arm to have one. (yes its repairable- by experts) [I had the same problem with GM Suv, which ironically I bought new in LA- went through 2 new entire rearends under30k miles. Then I took it to a pro who actually fixed it]
If you need help with the transportation and storage, I can easily have the guys at my factory take care of it all. There will be a crate right there- its simply needs a calltag and we have tons of space.
I'm doubtful - wouldn't a differential be like a battery or a water pump or the like? There's a "core charge" if you don't bring back (or have them keep) the original? (I'm having flashbacks of my long-ago mechanic days, standing in line with that beat-up cardboard box with a nasty old heater core or something, waiting to get my core charge back...)
#23
Just messaged you about this-- long story short, the original is long gone. Didn't really get into whether they'd have given it to me if I'd asked at the time.
I'm doubtful - wouldn't a differential be like a battery or a water pump or the like? There's a "core charge" if you don't bring back (or have them keep) the original? (I'm having flashbacks of my long-ago mechanic days, standing in line with that beat-up cardboard box with a nasty old heater core or something, waiting to get my core charge back...)
I'm doubtful - wouldn't a differential be like a battery or a water pump or the like? There's a "core charge" if you don't bring back (or have them keep) the original? (I'm having flashbacks of my long-ago mechanic days, standing in line with that beat-up cardboard box with a nasty old heater core or something, waiting to get my core charge back...)
Again, in my State, I would pay additional $ if I don't want to return the core. I still have the right to inspect the part before it's returned though.
I imagine this law plays out differently from State to State.
#24
#25
Just messaged you about this-- long story short, the original is long gone. Didn't really get into whether they'd have given it to me if I'd asked at the time.
I'm doubtful - wouldn't a differential be like a battery or a water pump or the like? There's a "core charge" if you don't bring back (or have them keep) the original? (I'm having flashbacks of my long-ago mechanic days, standing in line with that beat-up cardboard box with a nasty old heater core or something, waiting to get my core charge back...)
I'm doubtful - wouldn't a differential be like a battery or a water pump or the like? There's a "core charge" if you don't bring back (or have them keep) the original? (I'm having flashbacks of my long-ago mechanic days, standing in line with that beat-up cardboard box with a nasty old heater core or something, waiting to get my core charge back...)
If there ever was a chance, it was here with you paying full price and NY folks are cool and have no space. It was worth a shot.
p.s the reason they replaced instead of repair is that its really skilled specialized work, on any car, not something an average wrench can do.
#27
If you scroll up, the FIDELITY phone # is on the dealer's repair invoice that I copied in my original post.
If you don't see it, let me know.
The following users liked this post:
ralphwg (07-11-2017)
#28
The following 2 users liked this post by carzaddict:
pk4144 (07-07-2017),
Queen and Country (07-07-2017)
#29
Did you have to add in limited slip supplement?
I have had amazing performance from Amsoil and Lubegard in other cars.
#30
Did you use a specific brand? Or went OEM?
#31
"35188 rear differential metal filings."
I read that and thought "what the HELL??" I actually wondered if someone forgot to add the fluid originally, or if it had all leaked out, or if it was somehow defective.
And if it's mostly on "R" cars... do we have a different setup back there? (And why?) Or is it an issue of increased torque/stress?
Last edited by pk4144; 07-07-2017 at 12:16 PM.
#32
#33
Its normal to see filings in differential fluid- thats why typically they have a magnet in there to catch it. If there was abnormal wear, you would hear it long before any light or code was thrown. Its almost unbearable sound, particularly on the highway.
The following users liked this post:
pk4144 (07-07-2017)
#34
As I understand it the E-diff. or electronic diff. is activated electrically when slippage is detected on the wheels. A normal positraction works mechanically with clutches in the diff. This is done with an actuator in these cars.
#35
In order to understand if this is a common problem we would have to know how many units failed and how many were built. My dealer has not heard of this issue and has no factory data that supports it.
#37
#38
to be honest im not too sure of the details. I gave it to the garage and they told me they'd contact jaguar for the details. whether they used OEM brand or just a similar fluid weight.
right, but at the same time there's SOOO much jaguar wont admint to...but if you search the forums, you'll see a lot reports for the same
#39
Remember, the "left-across-traffic-from-a-stop" is itself a pretty quick maneuver, so you're out of it pretty quick. (I never felt the shudder/vibration in straight-line driving.) It's simple: find some quiet stop-sign intersection. Come to a stop. Make a left a little aggressively, and quickly (no need to go crazy here). If you have the issue, you'll feel it in the seat of your pants, and it will definitely feel like it's coming from behind you and not in front of you. It's not a "steering wheel shudder from the front end" feeling at all. And I don't think it ever began while moving, I think it was always from a stop. And it slowly became more noticeable and in the end was happening on right turns as well. I live in a part of LA where I'm making a fair number of those left turns from a stop.
Hope that helps.
#40
right, but at the same time there's SOOO much jaguar wont admint to...but if you search the forums, you'll see a lot reports for the same[/QUOTE]
Yeah I think so too, simply because I got no grief/follow-up/haggling from the warranty company. My hunch is the codes read a certain way and it was like "oh yeah, that" because it's not that rare in these cars. Just a hunch.
Yeah I think so too, simply because I got no grief/follow-up/haggling from the warranty company. My hunch is the codes read a certain way and it was like "oh yeah, that" because it's not that rare in these cars. Just a hunch.