There are four sayings that immediately spring to mind.

1) User error
2) RTFM
3) A poor workman always blames his tools
4) It's the operator not the puter

But seriously, am.glad it worked out for you...in the end :D

I would not give up on this. I thought I may have a defective circuit board and would need to take it apart and start soldering a new board in place. Going out for an ADU test drive soon. Thanks Bob for the clever device and walking me through this!

Glad it worked out, but the reason remains unknown (although there was a hint).
solution probably: use Microsoft software, avoid Microsoft hardware.

More feedback:

The device is a perfect fit and looks OEM. Kudos to Bob. The OBD2 dongle, v-gate, lost connection a few times while I was out for a drive. The led display IMO should be a bit brighter--I had to look hard to see it at night. The placement is excellent making the ashtray useful; however, my right arm is always in the way of glancing at it. As a result, I always need to reposition my arm to check on a reading. This is so much better than using the torque app on my phone.

Is the dongle securely fitted into the OBD II socket in the car? If the fit is 'loose' a couple of turns of electrical tape should hold it tighter maybe?

I haven't noticed this and find the brightness of the display to be 'just right' for me. But I do prefer panel illumination etc to be dimmer rather than brighter anyway.

Interesting. I haven't found this, but of course my car has the steering wheel on the right side (literally as well as metaphorically :)) so maybe that accounts for it :)

It sure is. On my long road trips through Europe, I have been using Torque Pro on a second phone (my primary phone is displaying Waze). Mrs Barnsie insists on having her own phone charging and sitting on a magnetic mount shoved into the air vent on her side of the car, so this means I am driving with three phones hanging off my dash! Not an ideal look. Bob's ADU solves one of those problems. And even better, it is permanently there, unlike my Torque Pro app which I only used for long, fast drives. The ADU really does give me peace of mind about my coolant temperature. I will never know why Jaguar denied us this information in the first place - if there was no room for physical gauges, they had plenty of room in the in-dash display for an additional screen showing temperature, volts etc. Most serious car enthusiasts want to know these things IMO!

The lost connection is probably a 5.0 thing. MarkyUK had the same initially, solved by a less frequent data request of the ELM327.
The dim light at night is personal, I personally have it set a bit brighter also. (you'll have to code this yourself without the EZ-update).
and I'm lucky that I'm left-handed I guess.

I have a general question here. I still LOVE the display, no issues, lost connection once, it restored 20 seconds later. No issues

The oil level though........ How reliable/accurate do we think that is? it is saying I have 1.32 Gallons of oil. I just did an oil change the other day (like 3 days ago), and I put in 7L (1.85 Gallons). There is no oil slick beneath my car, the Electronic dipstick seems to be happy, and the car hasn't blown up. and I have only driven <200 miles, I can't imagine I lost .5Gallons in 3 days. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Oil level: The OBD2 in the car reports it in liters,
I convert this to gallons by multiplying it by 0.264172.
As for the connection lost, this seems to be a 5.0 model thing. In a next update I'll add 50 milliseconds delay to the data request frequency.

Shipments to USA and Canada:
PostNL made a delay statement on 22 September.
probably also applicable for Canada

Bob - did you remember that US gallons are different to Imperial gallons? IDK if Marc is using Imperial or US. The multiplier for Imperial is 0.219969 as you know.

EDIT: From Marc's calculation of 1.85 gallons = 7L, he is using US gallons, so your conversion is, of course, correct.

This is the only forum I use where members can't delete their own posts, which I would have done with this one if it was possible. So an edit will have to suffice.

I can imagine that, when the engine is running, it pumps the oil around, leaving less oil in the pan.
What you could do is leave the car off for a couple of hours,
get in the car and press the start button without touching the brake pedal.
on the device browse to the oil level screen and have a look at the readings.

I've already done this--it is the same.

The ADU just reads the information that the engine is sending it. I am so glad I have a proper manual dipstick - I have never liked those electronic 'dipsticks'. Only takes some sort of electrical malfunction and who knows what the engine oil level really is? I'd be happy to have both - a proper dipstick *and* the electrical readout on the dash, but not just the latter. I guess I am a bit old-school, but I know when I see an oily mark on a piece of steel that that is actually the oil level.

I'm not tall--only 5'8" on a good day. I keep my seat lowered and back so my view of the display is more horizonal than someone tall. I noticed as I got up the display appeared much brighter without changing anything. Consequently, the display appears dimmer from a lower, more horizontal, point of view. I'm getting use to driving now more with my left arm so my right arm is not in the way. My right arm blocking a direct view probably has something to do with seat position and my height also. Love the ADU and the quality of workmanship.

The new C8 corvettes have a problem with the brake-by-wire electronic braking system. Electronics do fail--a physical dipstick is very robust and direct. Although, I do prefer progress and electronic innovation as long is the electronic systems are idiot proof and have a backup system for critical components.

I checked the oil after sitting over night, 1.85 gallons. So it moving around the engine is the cause of the weird number. Thanks all!

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6c9ec915f1.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7473c1687d.jpg

I have only 4.45 oil inch. But everything else is perfect. I love this device!!

I changed my oil last week. Removed 7.5 liters and put back 7.5 liters. I also did a lube guard cleaning. I will change the oil again next week to get any left over contaminants out. When I do the change again I will note readings after putting 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7 and 7.5 liters back in, waiting 1 hour between adding oil. I will then check the reading every few days before starting the engine to ensure I have a save amount of oil.

Don't rely on the numbers showing on the ADU (or Torque)
When you've put in 7.5 liters, there is 7.5 liters inside.
(unless have a leak or you've driven around thousands of miles and consumed some)

Even the inventor, Bob, calls it, ADU. We have a name for it. Once I get the readings for 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, and 7.5 liters I'll equate the readings to the actual volume of oil put in. This should be a reliable and accurate indicator of the actual oil volume.

My pal, who is a petrolhead of course, got into my car last week. He immediately spotted Bob's device.

"What's that?" said my buddy.
"That is my new ADU," I said.
"ADU?" he replied.
"Auxiliary Display Unit," I said.
I cycled through the different screens, showing off. Just because I could.
"Very nice," he said. "Expensive?"
I just smiled.

Got the unit updated to 2.1.0.5 for the 5.0 engine. Updating was easy, and everything went plug n play!

I gotta say, your level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is stunning Bob! This is a beautiful piece of work.

I do suspect a conversion error for the blower pressure. And also suggest that we may want to truncate the decimals from the F temp as it’s scrolling off screen.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cff64750c.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...06ca9fb28.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0783b8317.jpeg

Did an oil change today and recorded the readings from the ADU:

5 liters = 4.02 in, 1.32 gal
6 liters = 4.45 in, 1.59 gal
7 liters = 4.84 in, 1.85 gal
7.5 liters = 5.16 in, 1.85 gal

All readings taken on a level hoist. This should give me a good estimate of oil volume in the engine at a stop engine state. Interesting that at 7 and 7.5 liters the gallons gauge shows the same reading. Could this be because the electronic oil check in the car uses it and a reading below 1.85 will indicate to add oil or show oil down .5 liters?

Just joined yesterday and found this thread! If this is indicative of the forum then WOW. Amazing to see the detail and sharing

Thanks

The boost is reported by the OBD2 in millibar (*10),
the device converts this to Bar by dividing it by 100,
then multiplied by 14.5038 to get PSI with 2 decimals.

Concerning coolant temperature, this ought to show no decimals.

If anyone else can confirm this with a 5.0 engine and firmware 2.1.0.5?

Torque custom PID printscreen:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ed54076b77.jpg

p.s. anyone want / need a 2nd try with the differential temperature? (5.0 engine only).

Only saw that post just now.

Yes I'm proud of the ashtray 3D design,
no, I'm not proud of my spray painting skills :icon_gunhead: ,
and yes I'm proud of the PCB electronics design since it is the first time I did that :cool: .
The Arduino code .... someone who's a pro at that probably will say "what a mess".

I can try some code for the differential Bob.

Yes. e-diff temp would be a nice to have.

Ok here is the 5.0 beta firmware:
EZ_5_0_ESP32_OBD2_2_7_0_beta.zip

changes:
- added differential temperature (2nd last screen)
- beefed up the lowest backlight brightness a little. (increase visibility during night time)
- added code to suppress device startup errors
- increased the data request frequency with 50 milliseconds.
- deliberately set the coolant temperature error indicator to 75°C (167F) so you can see it "in action".

4.2 engines can install this one also for test purposes, just don't scroll past the "distance since codes cleared" screen, or you will get the error.
I'm also wondering what the "boost" screen will show on 5.0 NA engines. Should show an error, or a value close to atmospheric.

changes:
- added differential temperature (2nd last screen)
This is not working. Device goes into error mode, loses connection and shows strange number. Unable to switch to another screen without turning device off.

- beefed up the lowest backlight brightness a little. (increase visibility during night time)
This could be brighter all the time. I put my finger over the photocell sensor with no change. Did get change before--maybe I just didn't wait long enough.

- added code to suppress device startup errors
No startup errors

- increased the data request frequency with 50 milliseconds.
Connection seemed good. No loss of connection until I reached e-diff screen.

- deliberately set the coolant temperature error indicator to 75°C (167F) so you can see it "in action".
This is working as designed and is a very useful indicator.

Flashed back to prior version pending update.

Another suggestion to adjust brightness:

When on the brightness screen long press will put the user in a menu to select brightness by increasing brightness with each successive press until another long press is read.

Ah, there's the problem. There are 1000 millibars in a Bar, and you want to multiply, not divide if you use the way you were thinking.

Net/Net, what I think what you want to do is multiply the millibar reading by 0.0145038. And then the reading I got off of mine would be about 6 lbs of boost at just off idle, which is likely what it should be.

When you look at the print screen, there is an equation to get to millibar, which A*10 (hence the mentioning of (*10))
so getting to BAR is A*10/1000, which is the same as A/100.

I'm now doubting this equation, on this page the same PID 22033e comes up with a totally different equation : ((256*A)+B)/128*.145-14.7 (PSI)
However, this table (csv) shows that PID 22033e comes up with values in kPa. (which is A/100 to get to BAR)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ed54076b77.jpg

That's... super confusing. I mean. the .014 is millibar to psi. I dunno what that correction factor is.

So, after 2 weeks of using Bobs ADU I would like to give an update.
I have updated the ADU to include the coolant alarm which is great but a shame the startup screens were lost/changed.

The peace of mind the unit gives is impossible to quantify, I now drive without worry of whether my car is overheating and about to implode.
The car rarely goes above 93 degrees C even when driven hard which I feel I can do more now I can watch the temperature :D

I have had very positive comments from friends about the ADU and they cannot believe it is not a genuine Jaguar option but a forum member that has designed and built it from scratch.
I thank Bob from the bottom of my heart for all his work and generosity in building this for a few forum members for such a small outlay. :icon_beerchug:

If Bob was to offer a second batch of these at double the price I would not hesitate in buying one as a spare.

Many thanks Bob

I've not updated mine for the simple reason of the start up screen, just to see (male) passengers faces light up makes me feel like it's Xmas...females are like 'meh!' :D

And since the coolant is on the first screen and knowing that over 100 is approaching DWR* zone I can manage that...never managed to get it over 91 and have hard accelerated to 100 to try it out :)

If ever I sell the car I will replace the ashtray...unless of course the new owner wants to buy it off me for £400...lol

* = Danger Will Robinson!

Thanks CabrioBob!
I received my kit today. Well packed and well received....

So my review after a week or whatever

Freaking love it. I did the upgrade, start up screen is great (I don't care what it looks like. It works and is awesome). Coolant has been steady at 192-195F (The proper unit of measure :-)) Oil is great and it is amazing. Bob, if no one has bought you a beer yet, come on over to the US, I will take you for a drive and a pint Mate. Amazing

Bonus review: The lights on the OBDII module make my footwell look like a disco while driving late at night (As I just did). Gotta love a good party!

I'm working on a new update:
- E-diff temperature will now permanently discarded (5.0 engine, 2* proven not to function)
- Coolant temperature will show no decimals (only Rahtok reported the issue wit decimals shown)
- 5.0 engine boost strange values, can't solve this yet (only Rahtok reported this issue)
- coolant high temperature indicator will be also shown on the coolant screen (flashing yellow dot)

Manually set the low brightness setting will not (yet) be implemented, but you can always code this yourself.
Unfortunately, the "old" startup screens can't be brought back in combination with coolant high temperature reporting.
The screen brightness sensor only works past the startup screen.

The "raw arduino code" will be combined for the 5.0 , 4.2 and 3.5 engines.
The "EZ-update" files will stay as is.
The engine type will be Auto-detected.

EDIT: See post #413.

Shipping:
According to my information, only 1 unit has not yet been delivered (wymjym - I saw it arrived in Austin Tx)