Agreed, but I'm still trying to figure out getting 'service mode' to work....but then I've been quite thick lately as well.

 

Hmmm. Interesting but I'm with @plc.

Its always fun to open up the tech course materials, manuals and guides. And the references I see for capacities are attached. These values are consistent across all my sources.
About the comment concerning 'more is better': I always thought: more is not better than the actual preferred specified capacity.

This is a fun deviation from the work I'm supposed to be doing. Thanks!

 

I take it all back! Just re-read the workshop manual! Full fill is 8.90 l. But an oil change w/ filter is 7.25 l.

My APOLOGIES!

 

I'm having so much fun and don't want to chill ;-)
Please Do note that the system does not measure actual volume of oil! There is no “number of liters” measured or defined. At least at the time of this printing.

 

Reading the description in the previous excerpt from the workshop manual. It says the sender is mounted with a gasket, so it must bolt through the sump, which makes sense as it has wires attached. Therefore Reverend Sam, you don’t need to drop the sump pan, it must be accessible & able to be replaced. Or have I read that wrong?

 

Thanks Q&C!

Now the question I have is 1. Extract the old oil?
or 2. Drain the old oil?
Is this a question for the modern man? Are we avoiding getting dirty under a car now? Because I for one would want all of the guck drained as opposed to extracting and leaving residue behind.

By the location of the extraction tube I am assuming the 7.25 l fill is approriate. By draining (after all, there is a drain plug) the 8.9 l fill is accurate.

Incidentally for those not reading the signature block, none of this actually matters to me as I don't have a 5.0 l... yet.

 

... Clearly I'd rather be playing at this rather than doing what I'm supposed to be doing...

You'll have to ask a Tech for the code of a failed sensor. I can't seem to locate that...

 

Sam dropping or replacing the sensor is getting way ahead of yourself. I strongly urge you to set up the torque pro app to include oil level. First confirm you have a problem. The assumptions made in this thread are many and folks can't agree on what the proper amount of oil is (I'd rely on the manual myself). They also can't agree whether to wait ten minutes for the oil to settle beck to the pan (I would if it were me.)

I have read many of MoscowLeapers threads through the years and have nothing but respect for the information he provides, but you're not red lining you ride and your mission is far simpler. Set up the PID on you torque pro app first and at least confirm the readings are the same between your car and the app.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...p-more-213503/

 

Even at a time of printing:
-oil level sensors measures a oil level, in mm, reports it to PCM
-PCM converts the level to volume, i included a screenshot of that table in one of the previous posts
-IPC displays the e-dipstick, accrodting to "eDipstick" routine in PCM, which defined in liters, not in mm.

 

Thanks, I stand corrected. But as the engineer that I am, I can’t seem to locate an actual technical reference in my library for this information.

Thanks again!

 

Well, there's no such a data in tech library, JLR won't ever publish full information.
I, myself, spent a whole lot of time disassembling a software in various modules (including PCM) and i can clearly see the strategies these are using to work.

 

LOL, the very reason I look at software applications through a debugger. Kool, thanks @MoscowLeaper !

 

Yeah, but it' a pain to work with automotive firmware with a debugger, lol) The PCM may use MPC, SuperSH, Tricore CPUs, there's even more fun stuff with IPC CPUs and so on. And, for sure, every CPU uses diffrent assembler, init routines, interrupt vectors, registers and it's pretty time consuming to get through this (not to mention that you should keep a lot of data in your heard, while trying to avoid it exploding ). But somehow it brings a lot of fun

 

No Guy. There are many places 1.5 liters (or 20%) of oil will never drain from, such as the chain tensioner or VVT. Regardless of method.
In fact, this is Jaguar's Patent- a unique mechanism for retaining oil after engine shutdown.
For those interested in getting 95% of the old oil out, to preventing premature oxidation of new oil- they need to do a double change- run 5 liters of cheap oil for 5 minutes after oil change.

 

Very, very interesting! Thanks Q&C!

ok, didn’t know that. I am inspired about the 5l now.

Do I recall correctly; 2013 + are the improved versions?

 

The AJ133SC was improved some time between 2012 and 2014, and rumour has it again sometime in 2017 or 2018 although I have never been able to find precise details of what and when.
Apparently the first improvement was to the timing chains, guides and tensioners.
The chains were beefed up from 6.3 mm wide to 8 mm wide, the tensioner design was improved, and most important of all the problematic "tensioner impact points" on the guides were beefed up with hardened steel inserts. The main problem was the tensioners bashing against the guides and "digging a hole" in the soft metal impact point so that eventually the tensioner ran out of adjustment, the timing chain(s) slackened off, and the chain(s) then skipped one or more camshaft sprocket teeth. The warning sign was excessively rattly timing chain(s).
The first redesign pretty much fixed this problem then apparently there was another minor change in 2017 or 2018.
There are also some suggestions that when these changes were made the oil spec was changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20, and one of the reasons given for the spec change was that on start up of a cold engine in very cold ambient temp conditions (below freezing) the thinner / lower viscosity oil would reach the timing chains and tensioners a bit quicker than the previous thicker oil. The chains and tensioners are lubed by oil "squirters", fairly thin tubes that squirt/spray oil, and the lower viscosity oil gets to and through these tubes a bit quicker and easier.
My copy of the 2010-2011 XFR Workshop Manual says:
"Engine Oil - Vehicles built up to March 2014 SAE 5W20 WSS-M2C925-A
Engine Oil - Vehicles built from March 2014 SAE 0W20 STJLR.51.5122"
So maybe there was a change to the chains, tensioners and guides in March 2014?
And my copy of the 2015 F-Type V6S Workshop Manual (exact same lubrication system, chains, tensioners and guides as the AJ133SC) says the change in oil spec was "up to 2015" and "post 2015" (can't tell if that is calendar year or model year!).
With a 2013 XJ V8SC you could be right on the cusp of the first improvement and the only way to tell would be to measure the width of the timing chains - 6.3 mm wide = pre-change, 8.0 mm wide = post change.
You can see the top few links of one chain through the oil filler opening but they are a little too far down to measure easily, but with a bit of ingenuity you should be able to figure out a reasonably safe and accurate way to measure.

 

The guides were changed on the XF from VIN U04718. The 2015 MY on the XF started at U09026 so March 2014 sounds about right.

 

My understanding from talking to the shops and TSBs, it was for VVT rattle. And then recent discovery that DI soot was loading oil making it thicker.
Jaguar indirectly had tremendous failure with their oil-actuated VVT...- Ford used the same technology (I believe they licensed JLR design) regardless they were made by the same company.
This new technology added with the DI new technology= totally uncharted territory. When VVTs started failing, infrequent oil change was cited as most likely culprit, and as a precaution against neglect a lower viscosity was chosen.
This explains the role oil/vvt/timing chain relationship, especially in our cam actuators. https://www.cloyes.com/conducting-a-...3v-v8-engines/

 

Q&C, way back on March 6th you said to add a bottle of Techron to the oil and drive 100 miles. I'm tempted to try that, because I trust your opinion. BUT... I want to be absolutely certain you really, seriously meant to add Techron. Everything I read about it says it is strictly a gasoline additive. Are you 100% certain it's safe to add to the oil and drive for 100 miles?

 

100% safe as long as you dont overfill. What you put in the gas tank ends up in the crankcase anyway. That's why techron works it does not burn in the combustion cycle.
And it wont take big chucks off and block the pickup screen.
Are you trying to clean deposits you suspect in the crankcase? or is this for the oil sensor problem you were having? I might be able to recommend something more effective.