Ownership Difficulty - Finding the Right Person to Care for the Cat
#1
09-14-2020, 06:50 AM
Ownership Difficulty - Finding the Right Person to Care for the Cat
Hi All,
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
#3
09-14-2020, 09:33 AM
We also benefit from Fixed Price Servicing at Jaguar Dealers. Front discs and pads are 455 UKP / 804 AUD (supplied and fitted). You certainly pay a heavy premium to buy and run a Jaguar in Australia. Even worse if the work then isn't done correctly.
Graham
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jon-izumi (11-16-2020)
#5
09-14-2020, 10:03 AM
Veteran Member
Hi All,
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
2. I'm 100% DIY, but these cars are surprisingly not hard to work on.
3. I'm not up to date on what stuff costs even in America, so I'm not much help on Australia!
I do know the pollen filter is legit a 2 minute job. You don't even lift the car or contort yourself. You put the small plastic fascia around the washer bottle filler cap by removing the little plastic fasteners. Then right underneath is the pollen filter housing, which literally has little tabs and its a flip top. You flip it open and remove old filter, put new filter in, snap housing closed and put plastic fascia cover back on.
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mosesbotbol (09-14-2020)
#6
09-14-2020, 04:45 PM
Veteran Member
Pity you wernt more handy to do likes of servicing yourself its so easy , pollen filter from indy or dealer that will be $65 bucks please , by DIY only costs
Better to DIY things if you can , oil and filter change is easy , Dealer or indy $250 bucks DIY $80 . pollen /cabin filter . indy /dealer $65bucks . DIY $15 its a no briner and you know its done . more importantly
Better to DIY things if you can , oil and filter change is easy , Dealer or indy $250 bucks DIY $80 . pollen /cabin filter . indy /dealer $65bucks . DIY $15 its a no briner and you know its done . more importantly
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jon-izumi (09-15-2020)
#8
09-14-2020, 08:45 PM
Senior Member
That oil spec is for the 4.2 engine, not the 5.0. If the service place put in the wrong oil you should DEMAND they drain and change it.
If extra grease on the back of your brake pads doesn't make the noise go away, then your calipers may need to get rebuilt, or at least cleaned and lubed.
As for the rear noise, there are 2 sound clips in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-233405/
You can compare the noise to yours and see if its the same. I also thought it was the shock mount, but realized it was a sway bar link and lower arm bushing. If you can get under the car, take a look at the bushings - if the rubber boots are shot then chances are the joints are too. I finally found the source by having someone push down on the car as I sprayed each bushing with WD-40 to pinpoint it to a single bushing.
If extra grease on the back of your brake pads doesn't make the noise go away, then your calipers may need to get rebuilt, or at least cleaned and lubed.
As for the rear noise, there are 2 sound clips in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-233405/
You can compare the noise to yours and see if its the same. I also thought it was the shock mount, but realized it was a sway bar link and lower arm bushing. If you can get under the car, take a look at the bushings - if the rubber boots are shot then chances are the joints are too. I finally found the source by having someone push down on the car as I sprayed each bushing with WD-40 to pinpoint it to a single bushing.
#9
09-15-2020, 01:57 AM
Veteran Member
OP, am genuinely sorry to hear if your experiences.
I don't think you mentioned your mileage...if you did apologies.
To my (albeit limited) knowledge the SC belt doesnt have a change requirement. My car is at 55k miles and hasn't been done, but it is booked in to have that, the nose coupler and the SC oil changed at it's next service in November. Fortunately my Indy does subscribe to Topix and my service record remains intact and accessible to any new owner (if ever I decide to sell). You can see the part number on the attached parts sheet, it was cheaper for me to get the stuff from my main dealer as I get 15% off...even if yours is off for the change rhen you'll need all if the ancillary gasket items
As to the wrong oil used I agree to demanding a change, it's been the revised spec (IIRC) for over 2yrs and well documented by Jaguar in a TSB.
I don't think you mentioned your mileage...if you did apologies.
To my (albeit limited) knowledge the SC belt doesnt have a change requirement. My car is at 55k miles and hasn't been done, but it is booked in to have that, the nose coupler and the SC oil changed at it's next service in November. Fortunately my Indy does subscribe to Topix and my service record remains intact and accessible to any new owner (if ever I decide to sell). You can see the part number on the attached parts sheet, it was cheaper for me to get the stuff from my main dealer as I get 15% off...even if yours is off for the change rhen you'll need all if the ancillary gasket items
As to the wrong oil used I agree to demanding a change, it's been the revised spec (IIRC) for over 2yrs and well documented by Jaguar in a TSB.
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jon-izumi (11-20-2020)
#10
09-15-2020, 03:19 AM
Thanks everyone for the replies, it is nice that you echo my opinions (including @JagRag 
)
I think I will take your advice and have the 'robust conversation' if required regarding incorrect oil. My inclination to date has been to just replace it myself now and potentially the supercharger belt too and request that JLR record the service into Topix based on the Indy receipt I have. That way the work is done right and the documentation is right. Will report back.
@gkubrak thanks so much for the link to the suspension diagnosis - I'll show that and your videos to the Indy as well
)I think I will take your advice and have the 'robust conversation' if required regarding incorrect oil. My inclination to date has been to just replace it myself now and potentially the supercharger belt too and request that JLR record the service into Topix based on the Indy receipt I have. That way the work is done right and the documentation is right. Will report back.
@gkubrak thanks so much for the link to the suspension diagnosis - I'll show that and your videos to the Indy as well
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George05 (09-15-2020)
#11
09-18-2020, 03:19 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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I'm quite happy with my dealer... and they are not expensive. In my neighbourhood, the so called 'specialists' (= Indi's) don't have SDD, use second rate parts, and leave the kind of mess you've just experienced.
My dealer is happy to play and customize too... surely there's one in Brisbane.
My dealer is happy to play and customize too... surely there's one in Brisbane.
#12
09-19-2020, 06:37 AM
The problem with Jaguar
Hi All,
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
I apologise if this strays into bits of rant here and there, will try and keep it light (and it is factual!)
So I have owned a 2013 MY14 XKR since January, shortly after purchase the front brakes started squealing horribly even under light braking and the rear shocks are creaking at times, which I believe is the spring seats (based on my information as a two wheel mechanic and inspections by Jag independents where I am located down under).
I hate noises in my cars, so attempted to have both issues resolved immediately and did some research as to the best independent Jag specialists, taking my car to one relatively local. They were reluctant to take on either job and in their defense the logic was also to save me money by combining the addressing of these issues with the next service (queried in January, service not due til September).
I couldn't deal with the brake squeal so arranged for them to resurface the near brand new rotors and pads at a cost of over $500, only to have the noise return in ernest 2 drives later. When I politely spoke to the owner of the workshop to resolve, intending to pay for replacement pads (and potentially rotors) they were not interested and follow up calls were not returned. I ended up sourcing new Ferodo pads from Jagdaim for $210, as JLR here wanted $1000 for a set of front pads from their parts counter. A friend who is a professional mobile mechanic then fitted the pads for a reasonable cost, but discovered one of the dust caps for the 9mm hex bolts on the caliper is now missing, presumably by the shop who didn't fix the brakes the first time.
9 months on and I have been to a second independent for the 84 month service which was due.
They have not replaced the supercharger belt, pollen filter and have filled the AJ133 5.0 supercharged engine with 5W-30 oil, it cost $650 and they cannot update my online service record so I appear to not be looking after the car if you search my VIN. They did get closer to finding the creaking from the rear shocks and addressed a loose mount but it will be probably cost the same again to drop the shocks out completely to lubricate the spring seats, which is the most likely source of the noise back there. I just don't want to have the conversation with these guys about the oil, these conversations never seem to resolve how they should.
I may not keep this car forever, but irrespective of that, I want the service and maintenance done by the book (sorry for the bad pun) and recorded in the correct place, i.e. online service record. And I've never driven the car without either brake squeal or creaking suspension - would be nice to know what that is like :-p
My questions:
1. Should I be worried about the supercharger belt not being done at the correct interval and the car being 7 years old?
2. Are other people finding it difficult to get a workshop to look after these cars how it is defined?
3. Maybe the costs aren't high in other people's opinions?
Thanks so much to my fellow enthusiasts and sorry for the long post!
I can only comment on your brake squeak issue. I was told by my Jag dealer that the pads and rotors were down to levels that required replacement, I was having no issues but I did confirm they were on the edge. The price for all 4 brakes, pads and rotors was $2700 US. I decided to do this myself, it wasn't difficult but was time consuming as it took a whole day. Jaguar was only going to fit standard OEM parts which I didn't like. They were plain rotors that rust and metal pads that caused dust. I looked around and found a California shop that makes their own rotors and nickel plates them, or you can have black painted versions, and supplies either regular pads or ceramic at the same cost. There are a couple of videos on this forum showing how to change pads and rotors and so I won't get into that. But here's the point I want to make. When I bought the rotors and pads the company sent instructions, also on their website, how to bed in the pads. If you don't follow these instruction, squeaks and other issues could result, including warping of the rotors. After installation I went through the bedding in process. You have to drive at 45 MPH and brake down to 0 MPH in a fairly quick time but do not stop, you repeat 5 times. Then you do the same thing again by driving at 60 MPH and down to 15 MPH 10 times. This is not easy to do in the day time and so I did mine at 5 am in the morning. After this process you can emergency brake to test the quality of the cars braking ability. I never see or hear of repair shops doing this bed in on pads (even if you don't replace the rotors). Maybe the problem is your dealer never did a bed in. My pads and rotors have 2000 miles on them and I have no brake noise and almost no brake dust.
The company I bought from is https://brakeperformance.com/. I now have slotted and drilled rotors that don't rust and ceramic pads with little or no dust. They were $183 US/pair. I like the fact they are made in the USA and not Chinese copies. Total cost to do this job including all the tools I bought was under $600. That included a OBD reader for Jaguar in order to release the hand brake at $120 US, Harbor Freight piston retraction tool $24, 5mm hex tool, short breaker bar, new bolts for the caliper (you need to always replace the bolts, torque wrench (two sizes) $78 US. The rest was brake cleaner, fluid, etc. 8 hours of labor.
The recommended process for bedding in is listed here. How many of you have seen a mechanic doing this bedding in process. I haven't.
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
I occasionally get a squeak out of the brakes when I first drive out the garage on very light braking, it's not my daily driver and so there might be some oxidization on the rotor. But never during driving.
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jon-izumi (09-21-2020)
#13
09-21-2020, 04:57 AM
I own an XK8 2007. One of my pet peeves with Jag is the way they treat their customers. If you challenge prices they treat you like "If you can't afford this you shouldn't be buying the car" They have done very little in supporting third party service and in my small town in NJ, I can get a Porsche serviced at three very experienced shops at prices that are much lower than the dealer, but for Jaguars I have to travel 20 miles and there's only one in the 50 mile radius. What Jaguar don't realize is that a vibrant used market, cars out of warranty, is a way to strengthen your new car sales. Used cars, if one has a good experience, leads to future sales. Having got that off my chest, BTW I did write to Jag HQ in NJ about this, I wanted to comment on your brake problem.
I can only comment on your brake squeak issue. I was told by my Jag dealer that the pads and rotors were down to levels that required replacement, I was having no issues but I did confirm they were on the edge. The price for all 4 brakes, pads and rotors was $2700 US. I decided to do this myself, it wasn't difficult but was time consuming as it took a whole day. Jaguar was only going to fit standard OEM parts which I didn't like. They were plain rotors that rust and metal pads that caused dust. I looked around and found a California shop that makes their own rotors and nickel plates them, or you can have black painted versions, and supplies either regular pads or ceramic at the same cost. There are a couple of videos on this forum showing how to change pads and rotors and so I won't get into that. But here's the point I want to make. When I bought the rotors and pads the company sent instructions, also on their website, how to bed in the pads. If you don't follow these instruction, squeaks and other issues could result, including warping of the rotors. After installation I went through the bedding in process. You have to drive at 45 MPH and brake down to 0 MPH in a fairly quick time but do not stop, you repeat 5 times. Then you do the same thing again by driving at 60 MPH and down to 15 MPH 10 times. This is not easy to do in the day time and so I did mine at 5 am in the morning. After this process you can emergency brake to test the quality of the cars braking ability. I never see or hear of repair shops doing this bed in on pads (even if you don't replace the rotors). Maybe the problem is your dealer never did a bed in. My pads and rotors have 2000 miles on them and I have no brake noise and almost no brake dust.
The company I bought from is https://brakeperformance.com/. I now have slotted and drilled rotors that don't rust and ceramic pads with little or no dust. They were $183 US/pair. I like the fact they are made in the USA and not Chinese copies. Total cost to do this job including all the tools I bought was under $600. That included a OBD reader for Jaguar in order to release the hand brake at $120 US, Harbor Freight piston retraction tool $24, 5mm hex tool, short breaker bar, new bolts for the caliper (you need to always replace the bolts, torque wrench (two sizes) $78 US. The rest was brake cleaner, fluid, etc. 8 hours of labor.
The recommended process for bedding in is listed here. How many of you have seen a mechanic doing this bedding in process. I haven't.
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
I occasionally get a squeak out of the brakes when I first drive out the garage on very light braking, it's not my daily driver and so there might be some oxidization on the rotor. But never during driving.
I can only comment on your brake squeak issue. I was told by my Jag dealer that the pads and rotors were down to levels that required replacement, I was having no issues but I did confirm they were on the edge. The price for all 4 brakes, pads and rotors was $2700 US. I decided to do this myself, it wasn't difficult but was time consuming as it took a whole day. Jaguar was only going to fit standard OEM parts which I didn't like. They were plain rotors that rust and metal pads that caused dust. I looked around and found a California shop that makes their own rotors and nickel plates them, or you can have black painted versions, and supplies either regular pads or ceramic at the same cost. There are a couple of videos on this forum showing how to change pads and rotors and so I won't get into that. But here's the point I want to make. When I bought the rotors and pads the company sent instructions, also on their website, how to bed in the pads. If you don't follow these instruction, squeaks and other issues could result, including warping of the rotors. After installation I went through the bedding in process. You have to drive at 45 MPH and brake down to 0 MPH in a fairly quick time but do not stop, you repeat 5 times. Then you do the same thing again by driving at 60 MPH and down to 15 MPH 10 times. This is not easy to do in the day time and so I did mine at 5 am in the morning. After this process you can emergency brake to test the quality of the cars braking ability. I never see or hear of repair shops doing this bed in on pads (even if you don't replace the rotors). Maybe the problem is your dealer never did a bed in. My pads and rotors have 2000 miles on them and I have no brake noise and almost no brake dust.
The company I bought from is https://brakeperformance.com/. I now have slotted and drilled rotors that don't rust and ceramic pads with little or no dust. They were $183 US/pair. I like the fact they are made in the USA and not Chinese copies. Total cost to do this job including all the tools I bought was under $600. That included a OBD reader for Jaguar in order to release the hand brake at $120 US, Harbor Freight piston retraction tool $24, 5mm hex tool, short breaker bar, new bolts for the caliper (you need to always replace the bolts, torque wrench (two sizes) $78 US. The rest was brake cleaner, fluid, etc. 8 hours of labor.
The recommended process for bedding in is listed here. How many of you have seen a mechanic doing this bedding in process. I haven't.
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
I occasionally get a squeak out of the brakes when I first drive out the garage on very light braking, it's not my daily driver and so there might be some oxidization on the rotor. But never during driving.
You echo my thoughts / opinion exactly. It seems very hit and miss from reading posts from the US how each dealer operates and their approach to customer service - one will sell our forum members pro grade oil and be really helpful, and the next more like what I have heard of and experienced here - almost cartel-like treatment of workshop and parts like you describe.
I do know that the previous owner got relatively cheap pads and rotors fitted just before I bought the car, I think the rotors are the problem as the new pads solved the noise for a long while but it has returned a little. I will definitely check out the company you linked to - thanks!
I have read about the bedding in process before, it is an interesting concept (that I've not had to do with any other car before I have to admit) - but these are big, fast cars!
Thanks for posting and understanding
#14
09-21-2020, 05:08 AM
Veteran Member
Hey @gdollar
You echo my thoughts / opinion exactly. It seems very hit and miss from reading posts from the US how each dealer operates and their approach to customer service - one will sell our forum members pro grade oil and be really helpful, and the next more like what I have heard of and experienced here - almost cartel-like treatment of workshop and parts like you describe.
I do know that the previous owner got relatively cheap pads and rotors fitted just before I bought the car, I think the rotors are the problem as the new pads solved the noise for a long while but it has returned a little. I will definitely check out the company you linked to - thanks!
I have read about the bedding in process before, it is an interesting concept (that I've not had to do with any other car before I have to admit) - but these are big, fast cars!
Thanks for posting and understanding
You echo my thoughts / opinion exactly. It seems very hit and miss from reading posts from the US how each dealer operates and their approach to customer service - one will sell our forum members pro grade oil and be really helpful, and the next more like what I have heard of and experienced here - almost cartel-like treatment of workshop and parts like you describe.
I do know that the previous owner got relatively cheap pads and rotors fitted just before I bought the car, I think the rotors are the problem as the new pads solved the noise for a long while but it has returned a little. I will definitely check out the company you linked to - thanks!
I have read about the bedding in process before, it is an interesting concept (that I've not had to do with any other car before I have to admit) - but these are big, fast cars!
Thanks for posting and understanding
Honestly the frustration makes learning SDD, wrenching on stuff, etc; WAY easier to stomach than dealing with a jerk AND what feels like unnecessarily high prices. The independent shops are better supposedly but they all have minimal experience with Jaguar; usually its German/Italian imports, but they'll give it a go on the English stuff.
#15
11-18-2020, 04:49 AM
So here is my update of where Bianca the white Jaguar is now at ...which is a good place indeed
Suspension creaking in rear resolved with upgrade to XKR-S spring/damper units on all four corners from glens automotive on ebay
Front rotors replaced from cheap no-name to original Jaguar units from Rimmer Bros and calipers rebuilt with additional copper prep on back of pads, pins lubricated etc.
New anti-rattle clips with 'R' logos from Rimmer Bros to replace 'Jaguar' ones
Jaguar silver/grey union jack wheel centre caps and matching valve caps - Rimmer Bros and aliexpress bros lol
5W-30 oil removed (purchased a 14L oil removal pump which is awesome!) and replaced with compliant Penrite 5W-20 - engine was actually idling rough with small judders with the heavier oil, which is all completely gone and smooth again now
Dollars - not sure, a lot
Peace of mind and satisfaction - very high
Suspension creaking in rear resolved with upgrade to XKR-S spring/damper units on all four corners from glens automotive on ebay
Front rotors replaced from cheap no-name to original Jaguar units from Rimmer Bros and calipers rebuilt with additional copper prep on back of pads, pins lubricated etc.
New anti-rattle clips with 'R' logos from Rimmer Bros to replace 'Jaguar' ones
Jaguar silver/grey union jack wheel centre caps and matching valve caps - Rimmer Bros and aliexpress bros lol
5W-30 oil removed (purchased a 14L oil removal pump which is awesome!) and replaced with compliant Penrite 5W-20 - engine was actually idling rough with small judders with the heavier oil, which is all completely gone and smooth again now
Dollars - not sure, a lot
Peace of mind and satisfaction - very high
Last edited by jon-izumi; 11-18-2020 at 04:50 AM. Reason: corrected work completed
#16
11-18-2020, 05:11 AM
Senior Member
I'm very mechanical but gave up on cars years ago, thinking I couldn't understand them (and a lack of interest - I just enjoy working on motorbikes). I was let down repeatedly by Arnold Clarke, a local well respected independent garage and finally a "Jaguar Specialist" - the latter simply see's Jag owners as gullible fools with too much money.
I had a car with a vibration on braking at speed, strange clunking under braking on first change of direction, aircon that didn't work.
I fixed it all myself. I was amazed at how nice and simple this car is to work on, and now I have the peace of mind that everything works properly - the more I do, the more confident I become as I get to know this car better. I was shocked to find I actually needed my special filter tool - that oil filter had not been changed by any of the above low lifes!
However own repairs is not for everyone. However...a good mechanic can work on these WITHOUT being a Jaguar specialist.
My advice - find a good mechanic. Where brakes are concerned I can't stress enough - OEM discs, OEM pads, or face a future of ground hog days.
For aircon go aftermarket.
Everything else I will try to go OEM.
A good mechanic will take his time and do things properly - as someone who is not familiar with modern cars I have had no problems - although a lot of time is spent researching / reading - if you are happy to let him know you will pay for that you will have no problems, otherwise he will fall into traps that will lead to work needing to be done twice.
I had a car with a vibration on braking at speed, strange clunking under braking on first change of direction, aircon that didn't work.
I fixed it all myself. I was amazed at how nice and simple this car is to work on, and now I have the peace of mind that everything works properly - the more I do, the more confident I become as I get to know this car better. I was shocked to find I actually needed my special filter tool - that oil filter had not been changed by any of the above low lifes!
However own repairs is not for everyone. However...a good mechanic can work on these WITHOUT being a Jaguar specialist.
My advice - find a good mechanic. Where brakes are concerned I can't stress enough - OEM discs, OEM pads, or face a future of ground hog days.
For aircon go aftermarket.
Everything else I will try to go OEM.
A good mechanic will take his time and do things properly - as someone who is not familiar with modern cars I have had no problems - although a lot of time is spent researching / reading - if you are happy to let him know you will pay for that you will have no problems, otherwise he will fall into traps that will lead to work needing to be done twice.
Last edited by wsn03; 11-18-2020 at 05:14 AM.
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