Just tried to back the car out to go for a drive and it won’t move. Apparently you be managed to engage the brake and it won’t disengage.

EDIT: just tried SDD and I was not able to get it to release the actuator, just the same continuous clicking. I have DTC C1D15 signal plausibility failure. AND the dreaded C1799 😱

EDIT: additionally the EPB module passes CAN test fine.

 

Then all I can think of it an open circuit/ short/ corrosion at a plug no?

 

I've never actually looked at the connector, looking at the workshop manual it appears to be above the differential. How difficult will it be to get to if I jack the car up?

 

My posts above show the location. Not too bad... maybe 2 plastic brackets/clips to pry off, then they can drop down. I did it on my back with the rear on rhino ramps.

Once I have some time I want to do actual pinpoint tests between the module and connectors.

 

Out the car up a couple of feet in the air and crawled underneath. Did find the connector on the left by the diff, barely any room to get to and not sure how to unplug with such little room but visual inspection indicated everything looked ok. Traced harness forward to 2 more connectors by the bottom of the left fuel tank. Again nothing visually amiss.

I just can't help consider the circumstances that lead to this fault, everything was fine until battery went flat. Once charged, the error appeared.

 

Jeremy, with the actuator sitting atop the differential, I'd be relying on a mirror for visual corrosion. I agree, it's not likely that's the issue.

I've never had luck with running it but have you tried running a network integrity test in SDD? Might help disclose a CAN bus issue.

This per the PDF link I posted may have caused the error when the battery drained on page 372 of the advanced electrical guide:

"NOTE: If the vehicle’s battery condition is poor, DTCs relating to missing CAN Data may be logged at ignition ON or during engine cranking. Environmental conditions that put extra strain on the battery (such as cold weather) may make these faults more likely to occur. Ignition ON/ cranking faults of this type occur because low voltage causes a mismatch in communication timing between control modules when powering up and putting signals on the CAN bus. Before diagnosing missing CAN data, test the vehicle battery condition and verify that it meets man- ufacturer’s specifications"

I think this is what might have happened in your case. The error was logged but didn't go away once you brought the battery back up to full charge.

Other options, would be to try and fool the system into installing (re-installing) the EPB module via SDD by following a new module install procedure but only disconnecting and reconnecting your same module. Throwing darts...

 

CAN integrity passes, already tried the instal new module routine, I didn’t see any corrosion and the car is basically rust free underneath. I have one more idea I have not tried and that is to disconnect the cables from the calipers and see what happens when I do a reset (it should error out because it won’t detect tension - this happened when I did the Alcon conversion with secondary brembo parking calipers).

 

Lifted the car, pulled the wheels, ran routine to release the cables, removed the cables, calibrated, cables retracted all the way in, fault of course, ran routine to release cables, reattached cables and calibrated.....brakes engage, brakes release, fault....

That rapid clicking noise is still there by the way.

At this point the only other thing I can think of is somehow the battery going flat killed the motor on the actuator and the torque is out of spec and thusly triggers the fault when the calibration is performed. Odd there is not a DTC triggered.

 

@jahummer , are you getting a 'Cruise not available' also? I noticed it the other day for the first time. It only shows up when I try to engage the cruise control. I'm guessing its due to the park brake fault, also.

 

Yes it comes and goes. Wasn’t certain how it could be related. Interesting. Does your actuator make the ratchety clickety noise mine does?

 

When I probed the speed control module ... I got a U0417 code - Invalid data received from parking brake control module. But I can't tell if its U0417-67 or U0417-81. Maybe you have it too? Either way, I think its a symptom and not a cause.

Yes i get the clicking but only when I reset the battery and do re-cal. It engages, the message is displayed, then I press the switch and it releases. Not able to engage after that.

 

Exact same thing here, other than I have no cruise DTCs and I’ve only had that message about 3 times and it goes away. Spoke with a main dealer for some experience based suggestions and needless to say they suggested just replacing the actuator.

 

:-( This has been going on for a while and despite all of your efforts, you're no closer. I'm starting to feel for you.
The only q I have is if the actuator works with sdd, why would replacing it ba a solution... I don't follow the logic.
Unfortunately, with everything you've done, I don't have any valuable thoughts to contribute.

 

I have rarely ever used the park brake as I have no use for it. I did operate it from time to time just to keep it exercised. If it is indeed the actuator, it is a very involved tear down that I don’t really feel like doing for something I have no use for and it would further rub sand in the wound if it turned out to not be the actuator. My preferred solution if there is not an easy one would be to eliminate it all together.

 

Over here it must work to pass inspection (MoT), as it's the emergency brake too.

They test it on a rolling road.

 

Hopefully this weekend I can do pinpoint tests and put it to bed.

Opposite for me ... I use it all the time. For the actuator to just crap out 1 day doesn't seem likely.

 

So a year later and still this fault is here. Now its at the point where the computer thinks the brake is engaged and won't release … and the instrument cluster wont stop beeping when I drive.

Took it to the dealer and they pulled up U0417-81. And no other codes. They suggest replacing the module and praying it works. No other diagnosis was done which is pretty disappointing. I have the car up this whole week for some exhaust upgrades so I guess I will confirm with some pin point tests.

Guess they want to use the 'lets start throwing $600 parts at it' approach.

Edit: sorry they did do another diagnosis... charged me $80 to reset the battery to confirm there is a fault

 

Neither do I but I'm sure it will fail the state inspection should they catch it.

 

humor us, engine not running, for the record, whats your voltage and CCA capacity?

 

Eh... if it were an intermittent problem, I could suspect battery. But since it has faulted since day one, non-stop, I have to rule the battery out. Also considering I've changed the battery once with this fault still present.

My next step is to just buy a module and have the dealer program it, per their lackluster diagnosis.