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Power steering pump fluid change, ‘09 XK...do it yourself?
I’d like to do this change myself, using either a turkey blaster, or Mightvac to extract the PS fluid. I’m a moderate shade tree mechanic, and have done minor maintenance to Maoist of my cars.
Does anyone here have experience doing this maintenance job, or have any tips or things to look out for?
There's a thread on here somewhere about this.... I did the method where I extracted the fluid from the reservoir using a large syringe and refilled with Dex/Merc. Drove for a couple days, and repeated. 3 times total I think, or until the fluid I removed looked the same as new fluid. It uses more fluid this way but it's easier and less messy (for me) than doing the flush which removes one of the lines.
There's a thread on here somewhere about this.... I did the method where I extracted the fluid from the reservoir using a large syringe and refilled with Dex/Merc. Drove for a couple days, and repeated. 3 times total I think, or until the fluid I removed looked the same as new fluid. It uses more fluid this way but it's easier and less messy (for me) than doing the flush which removes one of the lines.
This is what I do. Yearly on all my vehicles. Three times immediately on any used vehicle I end up with.
There's a thread on here somewhere about this.... I did the method where I extracted the fluid from the reservoir using a large syringe and refilled with Dex/Merc. Drove for a couple days, and repeated. 3 times total I think, or until the fluid I removed looked the same as new fluid. It uses more fluid this way but it's easier and less messy (for me) than doing the flush which removes one of the lines.
nice, think I will try this. So with the syringe, about how much were you able to extract, on each procedure?
nice, think I will try this. So with the syringe, about how much were you able to extract, on each procedure?
I don't remember how much the system holds and how much of that is in the reservoir so I can't answer that. It doesn't really matter because your gonna repeat until the extracted fluid is "clean".
Yes, just as others have said - the turkey baster “extract, refill, rinse, and repeat” method works well, albeit a bit wasteful of the ATF.
I kept a photographic record of my iterations, see pics. I extracted about 1/3 to 1/2 of a pint each time and repeated 6 times with several minutes of idling and 10 lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel between extractions / refills. I had raised and supported the front of the car on jackstands to avoid undue stress on the steering gear from the repeated lock-to-locks. All worked out fine and the fluid went from muddy red-brown to clear red.
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Yes, just as others have said - the turkey baster “extract, refill, rinse, and repeat” method works well, albeit a bit wasteful of the ATF.
I kept a photographic record of my iterations, see pics. I extracted about 1/3 to 1/2 of a pint each time and repeated 6 times with several minutes of idling and 10 lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel between extractions / refills. I had raised and supported the front of the car on jackstands to avoid undue stress on the steering gear from the repeated lock-to-locks. All worked out fine and the fluid went from muddy red-brown to clear red.
Nice. Cool that you can see the progression to clean(er) fluid. Can’t wait to give it a try. Thanks.
The maintenance manual has a much better way. It's 57.15.08, on page 604 in the 4.2 manual. The 5.0 is very similar.
You disconnect the power steering reservoir and use the PS pump to push new PS fluid through the system, into a waste container. This swaps out 100% of the old fluid in one pass. Also, after 80K miles or so, it's often a good idea to replace the reservoir, since the filter in it gradually clogs, so the turkey baster method is increasingly removing fluid that's not circulating around the system. If you don't want to pay JLR's absurd price, the same generation BMW one is identical for about $40-50, on the 4.2. Keep the cap, because the BMW cap specs a hydraulic fluid rather than Dextron 3.
I've attached a relevent page for reference, but the full method is in the manual. It's one of a 4 page process. I've used it. Setup takes 15 minutes, replacing the fluid takes about 3. One more note: the spec for the 4.2 and 5.0 is Dextron 3 (an ATF), somewhat hard to find. I found some and used it, but if you can't, look for a compatible fluid.
One suggestion that is different than the manual. I dropped a feed hose into a clean container with 3L of Dex3. Then I connected the other end to the intake hose of the PS system with a hose clamp, rather than a funnel. Worked great and none of the leak problems of the funnel method. Also, suck out as much fluid fro the reservoir as you can, and place a wad of paper towels under the reservoir as you disconnect it to catch the remainder. Good luck.
Last edited by panthera999; 08-20-2023 at 06:46 PM.
I’m beyond getting dirty in these days. Besides, others need the job.
Turkey baster is clean and simple. While at it use greenturtle’s?? method of cleaning the filter at the bottom of the reservoir.
Cheers
The reason is that the fluid I pushed out of the steering rack was dirty, not the pretty red color in the reservoir, after 14 years and 80K miles, and considerably dirtier than the bottles above. Fluids wear out in normal use. I used the turkey baster method for years. Once seeing the condition of the rack fluid, I'm glad I did the swap. You only have to do a complete swap once in the life of your car. But, as always, your car, your call. Best, Panthera
Very interesting thread.
Now that I've seen how dark was my "for life"supercharger oil,i want to change that oil too.
Does the car has to be lifted or can it be done on the ground?(for when turning the steering wheel to empty the pump)
Very interesting thread.
Now that I've seen how dark was my "for life"supercharger oil,i want to change that oil too.
Does the car has to be lifted or can it be done on the ground?(for when turning the steering wheel to empty the pump)
No lift needed -- you're working entirely from the Reservoir area. The pump runs all the time (on the serpentine belt). So once the two containers are hooked up to in intake and outflow where the reservoir connects, you just crank it for a few seconds. I pumped 2L of Dex3 through, because why not (it's cheap) and it came out red after a L or so passed through. Make sure the container hoses are clamped onto the feed hoses or you'll have an ATF shower. I don't know if this method clears any lines to the PS fluid cooler, if present, but I assume it does.
Then hook up the new reservoir, in the right direction, clamp it, and refill it with the 3rd L. When you start the car the level will likely drop, so top up the PS reservoir to the fill mark.
Yes, just as others have said - the turkey baster “extract, refill, rinse, and repeat” method works well, albeit a bit wasteful of the ATF.
I kept a photographic record of my iterations, see pics. I extracted about 1/3 to 1/2 of a pint each time and repeated 6 times with several minutes of idling and 10 lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel between extractions / refills. I had raised and supported the front of the car on jackstands to avoid undue stress on the steering gear from the repeated lock-to-locks. All worked out fine and the fluid went from muddy red-brown to clear red.
If you decide to do a full flush as described below, please show the fluid output from the rack -- would be helpful. Thanks.
I've started a 'turkey baster' cycle just to freshen up my power steering fluid a bit. Being OCD, and just for fun, I thought I'd use a spreadsheet to calculate what's happening...
Second and subsequent 'bastings' remove some of the new fluid added in previous goes, so (based on 4 litres capacity and 300ml changed at each basting for spreadsheet purposes):
after 10 bastings there'd be 46% old fluid in the system
after 30 bastings there'd be 10% old fluid in the system
after 60 bastings there'd be 1% old fluid in the system
and in case anyone cares, to get under 0.1% old fluid would take 119 bastings, use 35.7 litres of new fluid, and take far longer than almost any other method!
I've started a 'turkey baster' cycle just to freshen up my power steering fluid a bit. Being OCD, and just for fun, I thought I'd use a spreadsheet to calculate what's happening...
Second and subsequent 'bastings' remove some of the new fluid added in previous goes, so (based on 4 litres capacity and 300ml changed at each basting for spreadsheet purposes):
after 10 bastings there'd be 46% old fluid in the system
after 30 bastings there'd be 10% old fluid in the system
after 60 bastings there'd be 1% old fluid in the system
and in case anyone cares, to get under 0.1% old fluid would take 119 bastings, use 35.7 litres of new fluid, and take far longer than almost any other method!
I took the number from the flush instructions in the service manual which refers to running 4 litres through the system:
Notwithstanding what the document you've linked to says, there's at least 300ml in the reservoir. Then there's the fluid in the pump, the fluid in the fluid cooler, and the fluid in all the hoses never mind what's in the rack itself. Total system capacity has to be more than 1 litre...
Last edited by justinhill; 09-24-2023 at 08:27 AM.