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This is from a very trustworthy company- every product they make is outstanding.
Doing it just for the 5% HP gain is worth it.
They show proof @7:00 min mark
I saw Scotty Kilmer video where he used it by finding a vacuum line and spraying it it there. He didn't show the before or after results but I'm guessing one could spray it in a vacuum line and not have to worry about the MAF sensor. I dunno.
I saw Scotty Kilmer video where he used it by finding a vacuum line and spraying it it there. He didn't show the before or after results but I'm guessing one could spray it in a vacuum line and not have to worry about the MAF sensor. I dunno.
CRC label specifically warns not to spray the MF sensor.
I have some and intend to use it on my 2013 Rover.
The MAF sensors are located at the exit of the air cleaner boxes, which are not easily accessible. See the diagram below for the 4.2L SC engine. I suspect that the 5.0L is similar. My question is: what would you disassemble in order to spray the CRC Cleaner into the intake system? What's easiest?
I don't like how the 'proof' is piecemeal from various vehicles. Why not show ALL those parts from all the test subjects?
Anyway, this is how I'd do it:
I don't like how the 'proof' is piecemeal from various vehicles. Why not show ALL those parts from all the test subjects?
Anyway, this is how I'd do it:
I think you could just loosen a clamp past the MAF sensor enough to slide the CRC tube in and you'd be fine without having to tap a line. And yes there a several videos out there with demos or CRC vs. water vs. Seafoam. Some are a bit "Appalachian" and rather entertaining, albeit useless. One just does a compare leaving the piston head soak, though he acknowledges he's not following the directions. This one is my favorite:
When I used Seafoam I loosened up the intake resonator to the T-pipe. Then stuck the nozzle spray tip in a small gap between the T-pipe and resonator. This was a crappy method because you can't see where it's actually spraying. It ended up shooting over the throttle body and across to the resonator on the other side lol. Soaked my air filter and didn't even realize it.
If you can rig an adapter to fully seal the spray tip inside the vacuum hose, I would spray it through the brake booster vacuum hose - before the check valve.
Next time I will run it through a service port I have in my catch can (AKA the dip stick hole).
I think you could just loosen a clamp past the MAF sensor enough to slide the CRC tube in and you'd be fine without having to tap a line. And yes there a several videos out there with demos or CRC vs. water vs. Seafoam. Some are a bit "Appalachian" and rather entertaining, albeit useless. One just does a compare leaving the piston head soak, though he acknowledges he's not following the directions. This one is my favorite:
My inlet pipes are very rigid. I doubt that I could just loosen a clamp and slide the CRC tube in. I was thinking about taking one of the two MAF(got the spelling correct this time) sensors out and masking the hole then poking thru the masking. Not so worried about the engine running rough for a while but I do not want a code thrown that
is difficult to get rid of.
If you want to keep your injectors clean you need to use a injector cleaner run through your gas tank.
Agreed. I think the purpose of Q&C's post was primarily to focus on the carbon build up on the injectors for the 5.0 engines as they are direct inject.
My inlet pipes are very rigid. I doubt that I could just loosen a clamp and slide the CRC tube in. I was thinking about taking one of the two MAF(got the spelling correct this time) sensors out and masking the hole then poking thru the masking. Not so worried about the engine running rough for a while but I do not want a code thrown that
is difficult to get rid of.
You might end up having the same issue as i did - soaking the resonator and air filter. Since there won't be much vacuum or 'suction' @ 2000-3000 RPM to pull the liquid into the intake. It will just drip down to the air filter.
You might end up having the same issue as i did - soaking the resonator and air filter. Since there won't be much vacuum or 'suction' @ 2000-3000 RPM to pull the liquid into the intake. It will just drip down to the air filter.
The injector cleaner you run through the tank and this is the exact same thing. The spray is more concentrated.
In fact the injector cleaner I run through my tank is made by CRC. https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05815.html
But If this does valves, piston heads, and injectors.....well the injectors are a bonus.
The thing to keep in mind in a DI engine its not the fuel path that's causing the injectors to get clogged up, no way even running the lowest quality gas would an injector clog under 75k miles, as its doing on our 5.0 engines.
Clearly its crud from outside the fuel system, so it makes sense that an external cleaner is having effect without even trying.
For the conspiracy theorist ding-dongs among us, I have some relief, if this company sells separate fuel injector cleaner, why would they mention it as a free bonus to one of their other products, if not for honesty. Seriously- BK44 makes you do both, run the stuff through the tank and intake, at 5x the price.
If it is GDI then tank cleaner will do little good for dirty valves. For GDI you have to use the cleaner directly through the throttle body.
From CRC:
If you have a GDI engine, this is a necessary process to keep your engine healthy. In-tank fuel additives have zero effect on GDI intake valves as they never see fuel washing over them. In-tank cleaners are great for “wet” valves, but not so much for “dry” valves.
If it is GDI then tank cleaner will do little good for dirty valves. For GDI you have to use the cleaner directly through the throttle body.
From CRC:
If you have a GDI engine, this is a necessary process to keep your engine healthy. In-tank fuel additives have zero effect on GDI intake valves as they never see fuel washing over them. In-tank cleaners are great for “wet” valves, but not so much for “dry” valves.