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I have figured out and DIYed plenty of challenges on cars, boats, cameras etc in my time.
Everything in my signature I have done myself.
This forum is for sharing ideas, lessons learned, as well as constructive advice.
Precisely why we expect you to lead the charge on this.
Drill a hole if you have to, just tap it and put a nice screw there.
One thing is for certain, since so many manufacturers all recommend this method, it has to be a good way.
Alternatively one could write to CRC and get list on local mechanics who use this, bear in mind, this video was made for those mechanics.
I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ here but I don't understand what the issue is. The video is pretty clear. You spray this stuff into the intake, downstream of the MAF sensor, ideally as close to the throttle body as possible, or into a vacuum tube on the intake. I realize removing the intake tube at the throttle body is tight but you only have to squeeze a small tube in there. If not, drill a hole.
I'm going to try it on my son's 2012 Sonata. I've read they get pretty gunky.
Just for the record ... I am completely against drilling a hole into a perfectly good intake pipe when all you have to do is disconnect the brake booster vacuum line. Just make sure the spray tip is tight in there.
Just for the record ... I am completely against drilling a hole into a perfectly good intake pipe when all you have to do is disconnect the brake booster vacuum line. Just make sure the spray tip is tight in there.
I'm not a mechanic, but it seems that what you're saying makes sense. Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's no chance of that CRC GDI spray getting into the brake booster because the engine vacuum is sucking air away from the booster and making the air in the intake flow towards the cylinders. Inserting that CRC GDI cleaner product into that airflow is how it gets to the intake valve stems to clean them.
If I'm right, then that's the best and easiest way to do it.
Just one other question: how do you vary the engine speed while spraying the CRC GDI cleaner into the engine? Do you need a helper in the car, or is there some mechanical linkage (like Old School carburetors)? I thought that fly-by-wire didn't have any mechanical linkage and just used electrical resistance.
If you have a denso ecu with the vacuum controlled supercharger actuator then you can disconnect the rubber hose from the actuator and squirt the cleaner in at that point.
I did something similar to my SV8 Stuart. I don't recall what I was spraying into the throttle body back then (hell it could have been the CRC). I used a piece of wood on the gas pedal and pressed against the front of the seat, then used the power seat function to get to the right RPM.
I could have had my wife help by why ruin a perfectly good afternoon?
I'm not a mechanic, but it seems that what you're saying makes sense. Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's no chance of that CRC GDI spray getting into the brake booster because the engine vacuum is sucking air away from the booster and making the air in the intake flow towards the cylinders. Inserting that CRC GDI cleaner product into that airflow is how it gets to the intake valve stems to clean them.
If I'm right, then that's the best and easiest way to do it.
Just one other question: how do you vary the engine speed while spraying the CRC GDI cleaner into the engine? Do you need a helper in the car, or is there some mechanical linkage (like Old School carburetors)? I thought that fly-by-wire didn't have any mechanical linkage and just used electrical resistance.
I borrowed a helper for a few minutes to rev the engine while i sprayed.
If you disconnect the vacuum line from the booster, then there's no way it can get into the booster. At least on the 4.2 XKR, the booster hose is actually made up of 2 lines: 1 short line that contains the check valve and plugs into the booster itself, and the longer line that goes to the throttle body elbow. They are both connected with 1 of those quick-connect couplings. If you disconnect them at that point where they meet, then you have nothing to worry about. Disconnecting the 2 lines from each other, or unplugging the check valve: either one works. Just gotta figure out which one fits better to the can's sprayer.
If you have a denso ecu with the vacuum controlled supercharger actuator then you can disconnect the rubber hose from the actuator and squirt the cleaner in at that point.
You would have to plug the end on the actuator, no? That would create a vacuum leak. I remember when I had mine off, that flap never actually fully closes, kinda like the throttle body flap. Plus i don't see how you can get to it without removing the intake resonator and maybe some other stuff.
If you have a denso ecu with the vacuum controlled supercharger actuator then you can disconnect the rubber hose from the actuator and squirt the cleaner in at that point.
Is this what you are referring to because the rubber hose that is going directly into the TB seems like the perfect spot to put a barbed tee just for this application...
Is this what you are referring to because the rubber hose that is going directly into the TB seems like the perfect spot to put a barbed tee just for this application...
That's the puppy. The actuator is spring loaded so if you disconnect from the actuator side it should be quite easy to insert the tube from the can of cleaner into the free end of the hose and use some tape to make a good seal. Or you can disconnect where the tube goes in to the supercharger. I don't think there is an air path between the two sides of the actuator so I wouldn't bother trying on the other side of the actuator (the one that goes to the plastic air intake stub). I haven't ever done this so it's just an assumption on my part but easily checked to see where there is a vacuum with the engine running.
I am thinking of drilling a very small hole in the lip of the TB for CRC injection purposes that can be covered up easily by the robber join sleeve.
I would slip the sleeve to the front of the car, but still attached, to expose the hole. Afterwards I would simply push the sleeve back on fully.
However I am going to wait until I change the spark plugs. At that point in time I will use an endoscope in a few spark plug holes to try and look at the valves.
If the inlet valves look good I will not bother. The car has done 85,000 miles. If the valves do not look good then I will use CRC and afterwards will use the endoscope again.