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However I am going to wait until I change the spark plugs. At that point in time I will use an endoscope in a few spark plug holes to try and look at the valves.
You will only be able to see the condition of the top of the piston and the bottom of the valves then. The carbon buildup on GDI engines occurs mostly on the intake side of the valves.
You will only be able to see the condition of the top of the piston and the bottom of the valves then. The carbon buildup on GDI engines occurs mostly on the intake side of the valves.
I understand that. The endoscope has a mirror allowing a sideways look. So if the valve is in the fully open position I would think that I could see the back of the valve?
I understand that. The endoscope has a mirror allowing a sideways look. So if the valve is in the fully open position I would think that I could see the back of the valve?
Am thinking of doing this on my XJR non DI engine just to check and see if my meth system works the way I want it to.
Yep, if you find the cylinder with the intake valve open. But yes, it's better than not looking at all, and you'll have all the plugs out anyways so why not!
Just make damn sure that mirror attachment is on nice and tight!
Yep, if you find the cylinder with the intake valve open. But yes, it's better than not looking at all, and you'll have all the plugs out anyways so why not!
Just make damn sure that mirror attachment is on nice and tight!
One cannot see the intake side of the valves through plug holes. Down the intake ports is the only way. Having a supercharger there would make that..... problematic.
John why do all that.
You know as sure as the sun will rise you have carbon, you have carbon on the injectors.
I can tell by your signature you are into the last ounce of performance and perfection.
So you are going to most likely be cleaning often, not just what you have now under the rug.
The hole is the best idea because it will make all subsequent applications easier without the risk of breaking connectors.
Shame you have a tune because there was an easier way of knowing if you have power robbing carbon- just dyno the thing.
One cannot see the intake side of the valves through plug holes. Down the intake ports is the only way. Having a supercharger there would make that..... problematic.
John why do all that.
You know as sure as the sun will rise you have carbon, you have carbon on the injectors.
I can tell by your signature you are into the last ounce of performance and perfection.
So you are going to most likely be cleaning often, not just what you have now under the rug.
The hole is the best idea because it will make all subsequent applications easier without the risk of breaking connectors.
Shame you have a tune because there was an easier way of knowing if you have power robbing carbon- just dyno the thing.
I use injector cleaner in the petrol often so hope they are good.
You are correct about the carbon build up for sure I think. However I have nothing to lose with using the endoscope and I will have before and after pictures to see whether
the CRC actually works.
I undid the VAP tune when I had suspension problems thinking incorrectly it affected my suspension. I have 2 different VAP tunes btw. Mice were the problem and they have been dealt with along with the air pressure tube they gnawed thru.
Should be able to see both intake and exhaust valve with endoscope thru plug hole.
POSSIBLY see the valve FACES, and that's if you curl the 'scope 180 degrees inside the cylinder. Why look at the valve face? That's not where the carbon builds up. The GDI problem is inside the intake runner, not inside the combustion chamber.
Seeing the condition of a valve face is worthless.
One of our vehicles is a 2015 Discovery 4 with the SC V6. For sometime it has had an issue with consistently running rough when the AC is turned on or when turning the steering wheel or running the suspension compressor. Dealer had suggested possibly needing a new AC compressor and suspension compressor as they supposedly performed a high priced intake/induction service with no success.
So today I picked up a can of this CRC GDI intake cleaner and decided to give it a shot. I used the breather on the top of the throttle body and followed all of the steps.
Well I’m stunned. This stuff completely cleared up the problem. Motor runs smooth and quiet like it did when it was new. For 20 times less than the cost of the dealer intake service and no parts to replace it’s like a new truck.
Thanks for sharing this product with us. Now to do the 5.0 liter SC Range Rover, which does not have any running issues but I’m sure will benefit from this.
Just for the record ... I am completely against drilling a hole into a perfectly good intake pipe when all you have to do is disconnect the brake booster vacuum line. Just make sure the spray tip is tight in there.
Yep, I just checked the brake booster vacuum line on my V6 F-Type and there is a real easy to access join in the line that can be disconnected, so that is where I will try.
Per this pic, see the yellow mark smack in the middle of the pic where I have disconnected the line, the line then snakes around the side of the SC then the back of the SC and plugs into a nipple low down on the LHS of the SC:
Yep, I just checked the brake booster vacuum line on my V6 F-Type and there is a real easy to access join in the line that can be disconnected, so that is where I will try.
Per this pic, see the yellow mark smack in the middle of the pic where I have disconnected the line, the line then snakes around the side of the SC then the back of the SC and plugs into a nipple low down on the LHS of the SC:
Just finished treating the car with a can of the CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner, all on my lonesome.
I used the brake booster vacuum line connection shown above and it all went without a hitch.
I also used two of the clear plastic tubes that came with my oil extraction pump joined together, that way I could spray the contents of the can into the brake booster vacuum line while sitting in the driver's seat operating the throttle. I can't find who it was that suggested this method (they bought six or nine feet of 9 mm clear plastic tubing) but thanks for the tip! The thick end of the pump tube fitted perfectly over (not inside) the brake booster vacuum line tube with a nice tight fit, and the spray tip of the can of CRC fitted down the other end of the thinner tube just nice.
Took seven or eight minutes of regular on/off spraying to empty the can of CRC and about six minutes in the check engine light flashed up for about three seconds then went away. And during the one minute of idling afterwards the top of the engine sounded very rattly and a different rattle to what I have ever heard before (and mine has always been a very rattly engine).
I was worried that the CRC treatment may have done some damage to the SC, and when I took the car for the recommended 10 minute highway run (after shutting it down and letting it heat soak for an hour) it hiccuped very briefly the first two times I gave it WOT. But then it came good, no more hiccups, plenty of power and no CEL. Maybe it was just coughing up some dissolved carbon build up?
Too early yet to tell if the CRC treatment has made any discernible difference but it feels at least as strong as it did before.
I would do a minimum of 2 rounds. I have seen great results on the other cars I have used on, not for valve cleaning but other deposit based problems similar to jahummer.
I would do a minimum of 2 rounds. I have seen great results on the other cars I have used on, not for valve cleaning but other deposit based problems similar to jahummer.
Yep, I bought two cans, tossing up whether to use the second can straight away or follow the CRC recommendation and use it around 1,000 miles down the track.
I really doubt the CEL could have been due to the disconnected brake booster vacuum, it came on only once for about three seconds while the brake booster vacuum hose was disconnected the whole time.
I assumed that one if the advantages of GDI would be clean intake valves as there'd be no evaporated fuel deposits on them, so can anyone explain why clean, filtered air passing over the valves leads to carbon build up like this?
I assumed that one if the advantages of GDI would be clean intake valves as there'd be no evaporated fuel deposits on them, so can anyone explain why clean, filtered air passing over the valves leads to carbon build up like this?
Just watch the vid linked in the first post of this thread and all will be revealed!
11-07-2019, 04:51 PM
