Promising Valve cleaner and injector cleaner
#61
01-23-2020, 06:26 AM
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peppersam740 (01-23-2020)
#62
01-23-2020, 07:26 AM
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There are some forum threads that discuss catch can mods. Unfortunately, space in the XK engine bay is at a premium and I've yet to identify a location that would work to my satisfaction. My understanding is that the container works best positioned lower than intake level but needs easy access in order to drain the collected oil.
I'm sure adding a catch can would not eliminate carbon buildup but should reduce it to some degree.
As part of the PCV system the 5.0L has an air/oil stripper but, as indicated in the catch can threads, a significant amount of oil gets past it and back into the intake stream.
I'm sure adding a catch can would not eliminate carbon buildup but should reduce it to some degree.
As part of the PCV system the 5.0L has an air/oil stripper but, as indicated in the catch can threads, a significant amount of oil gets past it and back into the intake stream.
#63
01-23-2020, 07:38 AM
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#64
01-23-2020, 11:23 AM
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Keeping it serious, I still believe induction cleaning with DI engines is a "must". Just funny that they screwed up the images.
#65
01-24-2020, 07:46 PM
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Just finished treating the car with a can of the CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner, all on my lonesome.
I used the brake booster vacuum line connection shown above and it all went without a hitch.
I also used two of the clear plastic tubes that came with my oil extraction pump joined together, that way I could spray the contents of the can into the brake booster vacuum line while sitting in the driver's seat operating the throttle. I can't find who it was that suggested this method (they bought six or nine feet of 9 mm clear plastic tubing) but thanks for the tip! The thick end of the pump tube fitted perfectly over (not inside) the brake booster vacuum line tube with a nice tight fit, and the spray tip of the can of CRC fitted down the other end of the thinner tube just nice.
Took seven or eight minutes of regular on/off spraying to empty the can of CRC and about six minutes in the check engine light flashed up for about three seconds then went away. And during the one minute of idling afterwards the top of the engine sounded very rattly and a different rattle to what I have ever heard before (and mine has always been a very rattly engine).
I was worried that the CRC treatment may have done some damage to the SC, and when I took the car for the recommended 10 minute highway run (after shutting it down and letting it heat soak for an hour) it hiccuped very briefly the first two times I gave it WOT. But then it came good, no more hiccups, plenty of power and no CEL. Maybe it was just coughing up some dissolved carbon build up?
Too early yet to tell if the CRC treatment has made any discernible difference but it feels at least as strong as it did before.
I used the brake booster vacuum line connection shown above and it all went without a hitch.
I also used two of the clear plastic tubes that came with my oil extraction pump joined together, that way I could spray the contents of the can into the brake booster vacuum line while sitting in the driver's seat operating the throttle. I can't find who it was that suggested this method (they bought six or nine feet of 9 mm clear plastic tubing) but thanks for the tip! The thick end of the pump tube fitted perfectly over (not inside) the brake booster vacuum line tube with a nice tight fit, and the spray tip of the can of CRC fitted down the other end of the thinner tube just nice.
Took seven or eight minutes of regular on/off spraying to empty the can of CRC and about six minutes in the check engine light flashed up for about three seconds then went away. And during the one minute of idling afterwards the top of the engine sounded very rattly and a different rattle to what I have ever heard before (and mine has always been a very rattly engine).
I was worried that the CRC treatment may have done some damage to the SC, and when I took the car for the recommended 10 minute highway run (after shutting it down and letting it heat soak for an hour) it hiccuped very briefly the first two times I gave it WOT. But then it came good, no more hiccups, plenty of power and no CEL. Maybe it was just coughing up some dissolved carbon build up?
Too early yet to tell if the CRC treatment has made any discernible difference but it feels at least as strong as it did before.
Yesterday (one day after running the CRC treatment) I hooked up my iCarsoft LR V2.0 code reader and it showed some interesting new error codes - from memory "misfire cylinder 3", "misfire cylinder 5" and "catalytic converter fail". Not entirely sure these are the actual codes that were shown as I immediately cleared them, but close.
Anyway, went for a run this morning, car ran great, no CEL, got back and checked for codes again and all good, zero codes.
The codes were obviously triggered by the CRC treatment and again I suspect the car coughed up some carbon build up which triggered the codes.
So a heads up for those thinking of using this CRC valve cleaner, you may get some error codes!
#66
01-24-2020, 09:37 PM
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#67
01-28-2020, 03:29 PM
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All,
this is a very interesting thread. Thanks for starting Q&C.
I have been thinking about this catch can business. Also for the LR.
we just changed all the coils and spark plugs in the xkr and replaced the pvc valve: the originals were in good shape. They were last changed 50000 kms ago.
So I’m on the fence post on the catch can advantage. Perhaps I will just using a regularly scheduled valve and injector cleaner approach. Every year??
this is a very interesting thread. Thanks for starting Q&C.
I have been thinking about this catch can business. Also for the LR.
we just changed all the coils and spark plugs in the xkr and replaced the pvc valve: the originals were in good shape. They were last changed 50000 kms ago.
So I’m on the fence post on the catch can advantage. Perhaps I will just using a regularly scheduled valve and injector cleaner approach. Every year??
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George05 (01-28-2020)
#68
01-28-2020, 03:39 PM
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#69
01-28-2020, 03:55 PM
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Interesting. Those with a catch can, do you notice if you are consuming more oil between oil changes? Perhaps just feeding the catch can?
I think I will use the method of valve and injector cleaning by drilling a hole very close to the throttle body. I really dislike the amount of effort it takes to remove the entire air induction system every time I decide to clean it. Thus not using k&n filters any longer... to much oily residue in the system.
I have never had the need to add oil between oil changes. I do an oil change every 5 -10 000 kim’s.
(surprises me really at 150000 km)
I think I will use the method of valve and injector cleaning by drilling a hole very close to the throttle body. I really dislike the amount of effort it takes to remove the entire air induction system every time I decide to clean it. Thus not using k&n filters any longer... to much oily residue in the system.
I have never had the need to add oil between oil changes. I do an oil change every 5 -10 000 kim’s.
(surprises me really at 150000 km)
#70
01-28-2020, 04:15 PM
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With the 4.2 SC engine that "contaminated" mixture passes thru the cooling matrix in the charge coolers and will gradually block off the matrix probably severely restricting the effectiveness after maybe 60k miles?
So an oil catch can will prevent a good deal of it however that does not mean you use more oil with a catch can.
Last edited by jackra_1; 01-28-2020 at 04:19 PM.
#71
01-28-2020, 04:26 PM
I rarely use emojis. That was a good one.On this engine I have seen plenty go 200,000miles and never show any signs of needing a catch can.
When a excellent tech named Brutal was still here and being charitable, he told us he had never seen an intake valve that did not have concerning carbon.
Ok I have some questions too. I had asked this but no one replied. In choosing a hole in the rubber collar just in front of the throttle body there is nothing to lose. That rubber collar is a common wear part. But you clean the throttle plate and body in process.
If you use the vacuum line right behind the TB which is very easy to disconnect, I am guessing that no cleaner gets to clean the throttle body??
#72
01-28-2020, 04:30 PM
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I rarely use emojis. That was a good one.On this engine I have seen plenty go 200,000miles and never show any signs of needing a catch can.
When a excellent tech named Brutal was still here and being charitable, he told us he had never seen an intake valve that did not have concerning carbon.
Ok I have some questions too. I had asked this but no one replied. In choosing a hole in the rubber collar just in front of the throttle body there is nothing to lose. That rubber collar is a common wear part. But you clean the throttle plate and body in process.
If you use the vacuum line right behind the TB which is very easy to disconnect, I am guessing that no cleaner gets to clean the throttle body??
My choice on my 5.0 NA engine will be to drill a hole when I ever get around to it.
I know the 5.0 engine has better oil control than the 4.2 however I would love to hear from someone that has looked at the charge coolers on a 5.0 SC engine after 50-70k miles.
#73
01-28-2020, 05:20 PM
Really wanted to do a Y connector at the vacuum line but could get any info if the cleaner would still remain atomized.
I understand the benefits as it can be done by one person, in my case having a hand is not an issue.
I will use a drill bit the size of the straw and use blunt side to burn a hole. Plug it with a screw.
#74
01-28-2020, 05:32 PM
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#75
01-28-2020, 06:07 PM
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Thank you.
Really wanted to do a Y connector at the vacuum line but could get any info if the cleaner would still remain atomized.
I understand the benefits as it can be done by one person, in my case having a hand is not an issue.
I will use a drill bit the size of the straw and use blunt side to burn a hole. Plug it with a screw.
Really wanted to do a Y connector at the vacuum line but could get any info if the cleaner would still remain atomized.
I understand the benefits as it can be done by one person, in my case having a hand is not an issue.
I will use a drill bit the size of the straw and use blunt side to burn a hole. Plug it with a screw.
#76
01-28-2020, 06:26 PM
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guy (01-31-2020)
#78
01-30-2020, 12:57 PM
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I speculate that a good catch can coupled with an EGR blanking system would tremendously reduce carbon build up inside your intake.
Interesting. Those with a catch can, do you notice if you are consuming more oil between oil changes? Perhaps just feeding the catch can?
I think I will use the method of valve and injector cleaning by drilling a hole very close to the throttle body. I really dislike the amount of effort it takes to remove the entire air induction system every time I decide to clean it. Thus not using k&n filters any longer... to much oily residue in the system.
I have never had the need to add oil between oil changes. I do an oil change every 5 -10 000 kim’s.
(surprises me really at 150000 km)
I think I will use the method of valve and injector cleaning by drilling a hole very close to the throttle body. I really dislike the amount of effort it takes to remove the entire air induction system every time I decide to clean it. Thus not using k&n filters any longer... to much oily residue in the system.
I have never had the need to add oil between oil changes. I do an oil change every 5 -10 000 kim’s.
(surprises me really at 150000 km)
See post #66 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-207259/page4/
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guy (01-31-2020)
#79
01-30-2020, 01:04 PM
Senior Member
Ok I have some questions too. I had asked this but no one replied. In choosing a hole in the rubber collar just in front of the throttle body there is nothing to lose. That rubber collar is a common wear part. But you clean the throttle plate and body in process.
If you use the vacuum line right behind the TB which is very easy to disconnect, I am guessing that no cleaner gets to clean the throttle body??
Unlike me where I didn't know that and sprayed the stuff directly on the throttle body plate a year ago. Ooops!
But yeah logically if you spray cleaner downstream of the TB, the vacuum and flow won't allow any of the cleaner to get the TB.
#80
01-30-2020, 02:32 PM
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I remember reading somewhere on here that the throttle body plate has a special coating, so you're probably better off not spraying cleaner on it.
Unlike me where I didn't know that and sprayed the stuff directly on the throttle body plate a year ago. Ooops!
But yeah logically if you spray cleaner downstream of the TB, the vacuum and flow won't allow any of the cleaner to get the TB.
Unlike me where I didn't know that and sprayed the stuff directly on the throttle body plate a year ago. Ooops!
But yeah logically if you spray cleaner downstream of the TB, the vacuum and flow won't allow any of the cleaner to get the TB.
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Queen and Country (01-30-2020)