Quaife LSD and output shaft bearings
#21
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Im hoping someone can help me out and since ive been scouring the internet and of course my favorite forum for information this thread seemed the best place to ask. Heres my issue. My 2004 XJR X350 is sitting on a lift with the rear end completely off the car as I expected the Timken bearings I purchased for replacement would fit only to find out they don't. The tech has the differential completely apart and ordered bearings he thought would be correct...only to find they don't fit. From what I understand he is saying the pinion bearings race is taller and thicker than what was pulled from the car and wont fit correctly. I do not or have not seen anywhere this complaint and he is now recommending that I purchase a used unit which I do not want to do. The question would be is the kit that's listed here on this feed the same as what I should be looking to buy or is there someone here who could advise or guide me in the right direction. Im in a bad place and this car has been in the shop long enough...anyone?
Oh and all im doing is replacing bearings on the diff not doing the LSD.
Oh and all im doing is replacing bearings on the diff not doing the LSD.
Last edited by motofreak72; 12-13-2014 at 03:44 PM.
#22
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OK I guess it's worth putting all the info in one place now.
What you need to install a Quaife QDF3W into your 4.2L X150, X202 or X350
>>>>>>snip<<<<<
So what you need....
1x Quaife QDF3W LSD center
2x Axle Bearings, Timken p/n LM603049 (race) & LM603011 (cup) also sold as "SET37"
2x Axle Seals, Timken p/n 714569, Ford p/n 2R8Z-4B416-AA, Jag p/n XR821244
1x Pinion Nut, Dorman p/n 81053, this is a "universal nut" same as Ford 8", 8.8", 9"
1x Collapsable Washer / Crush Sleeve, Ford p/n B7A4662A, Dorman p/n 81056
1x Pinion Seal, Timken p/n 3604, Jag p/n C2S1490 rep. C2S52518
If you need to change the pinion bearings, these are Timken p/n NP945727 and M88048 (race) + M88101 (cup)
I since discovered that there are a couple of suppliers offering complete kits for the Ford 8" as used on our cars;
Timken p/n DRK311, DRK311B, DRK 311BMK
"Timken Light Duty Differential Rebuilt kits include bearings, seals, crush sleeves, shims, pinion nuts, gear marking compound and sealants that are required to service the vehicle’s unit"
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xk-xkr-x150-33/85687-quaife-lsd-output-shaft-bearings-51b7%252bfo-1ll.jpg?dateline=1401168257)
Hope this helps someone out.
What you need to install a Quaife QDF3W into your 4.2L X150, X202 or X350
>>>>>>snip<<<<<
So what you need....
1x Quaife QDF3W LSD center
2x Axle Bearings, Timken p/n LM603049 (race) & LM603011 (cup) also sold as "SET37"
2x Axle Seals, Timken p/n 714569, Ford p/n 2R8Z-4B416-AA, Jag p/n XR821244
1x Pinion Nut, Dorman p/n 81053, this is a "universal nut" same as Ford 8", 8.8", 9"
1x Collapsable Washer / Crush Sleeve, Ford p/n B7A4662A, Dorman p/n 81056
1x Pinion Seal, Timken p/n 3604, Jag p/n C2S1490 rep. C2S52518
If you need to change the pinion bearings, these are Timken p/n NP945727 and M88048 (race) + M88101 (cup)
I since discovered that there are a couple of suppliers offering complete kits for the Ford 8" as used on our cars;
Timken p/n DRK311, DRK311B, DRK 311BMK
"Timken Light Duty Differential Rebuilt kits include bearings, seals, crush sleeves, shims, pinion nuts, gear marking compound and sealants that are required to service the vehicle’s unit"
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xk-xkr-x150-33/85687-quaife-lsd-output-shaft-bearings-51b7%252bfo-1ll.jpg?dateline=1401168257)
Hope this helps someone out.
Question: DRK 311 is for 8.5" and 8.8" ring gears while DRK311BMK is for 8" according to Rockauto 2007 Lincoln LS. Are these sets really interchangeable for our purposes?
Also, it seems the output shaft seals are not listed as part opf the kits, are they in fact included?
(Thanks a lot for all the info you have made available, nobody in my part of the world who has it.)
Last edited by Per; 08-14-2017 at 01:52 PM.
#23
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#24
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It appears those 8" 3.07 ratio pinion/ring gear sets are Jaguar only. Anybody know of a dealer having a set languishing on their shelf? (Seems Jag are out of them.)
Alternatively I will have to use a 3.0 ratio set which is only 2% out. Presumably all 8" sets have the same ring gear bolt pattern and bearing sizes?
EDIT!
8.8 has a 3.08 set readily available. But will it fit inside the casing, and will it fit the Quaife unit? (In other words is it only the outer dia of the 8.8 that is the difference between 8 and 8.8?)
Alternatively I will have to use a 3.0 ratio set which is only 2% out. Presumably all 8" sets have the same ring gear bolt pattern and bearing sizes?
EDIT!
8.8 has a 3.08 set readily available. But will it fit inside the casing, and will it fit the Quaife unit? (In other words is it only the outer dia of the 8.8 that is the difference between 8 and 8.8?)
Last edited by Per; 08-15-2017 at 01:28 PM.
#25
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My diff has a bit of movement in the ring gear as in giving a clunking noise when changing direction turning it slightly by hand. I believe the crush sleeve should give a pre-load to avoid that?
The teeth on the ring gear are free of pitting and shown nice and even polish across the teeth and top to (nearly) bottom. That applies for both sides of the teeth. To me that sounds like good news?
The teeth on the ring gear are free of pitting and shown nice and even polish across the teeth and top to (nearly) bottom. That applies for both sides of the teeth. To me that sounds like good news?
#27
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Digging up an old thread....
I have been thread searching to see what will be required for fitment of the Quaife QDF3W into my 2008 XF 4.2 SV8. I have sourced a diff centre, have been quoted somewhat more than expected for the bearing and seal kit. Is there any reason why it would be necessary to interfere with the pinion bearings to do this installation? If I can leave the pinion alone I would prefer to do so. Unless there is reason why I should remove the pinion, am I correct in understanding that I need just the axle bearings and seals? Timken LM603049 & LM603011 bearings & 714569 seals appear to be the correct ones for this vehicle? There appear to be numerous options to get these locally for around $70 AUD rather than the whole set for 300 pounds sterling plus import duty.
I have been thread searching to see what will be required for fitment of the Quaife QDF3W into my 2008 XF 4.2 SV8. I have sourced a diff centre, have been quoted somewhat more than expected for the bearing and seal kit. Is there any reason why it would be necessary to interfere with the pinion bearings to do this installation? If I can leave the pinion alone I would prefer to do so. Unless there is reason why I should remove the pinion, am I correct in understanding that I need just the axle bearings and seals? Timken LM603049 & LM603011 bearings & 714569 seals appear to be the correct ones for this vehicle? There appear to be numerous options to get these locally for around $70 AUD rather than the whole set for 300 pounds sterling plus import duty.
#29
#30
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I've got this Quaife diff sitting on a bench in my shed waiting for me to get the time to install it. Before I make a start on it, can I confirm that the crown-wheel bolts can be re-used, or are they torque-yield and need to be installed new?
Also is anyone able to tell me the torque setting for the crownwheel bolts, or point me to a source of the torque specifications? The workshop manual for the XF does not go deeper into the diff than removing and reinstalling it.
Also is anyone able to tell me the torque setting for the crownwheel bolts, or point me to a source of the torque specifications? The workshop manual for the XF does not go deeper into the diff than removing and reinstalling it.
Last edited by POD XF; 12-13-2022 at 01:11 AM.
#31
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Yes, thats true for all the manuals. Don’t know about the XF, but in the same years, the differentials in the xk and xj were ford 8”.
There’s plenty of resources on that. I was at my preferred ford dealership (that works on track preparing for mustangs and GTs) and the Diff guy said he would never reuse the crown-wheel bolts.
Hoping a pro weighs in…
FWIW.
Cheers.
There’s plenty of resources on that. I was at my preferred ford dealership (that works on track preparing for mustangs and GTs) and the Diff guy said he would never reuse the crown-wheel bolts.
Hoping a pro weighs in…
FWIW.
Cheers.
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POD XF (12-14-2022)
#32
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Thanks for that Guy, I did manage to find some info with torque specs etc having read that this is apparently an 8" Lincoln diff (no such thing as a Lincoln here in Aus) so I hope that is correct.
I was in the motor trade many decades ago and would never have had any qualms about re-using bolts generally but with the advent of torque-yield bolts in more recent years I am a bit wary and wanted to make sure that was not the case here before I dismantle things. I hate having a vehicle out of action waiting on parts.
That being said, back when I was in the trade I was never involved in putting 415hp through a diff (or anything else for that matter) so perhaps I should take a cue from your expert. Now to find where to source the correct bolts...
I was in the motor trade many decades ago and would never have had any qualms about re-using bolts generally but with the advent of torque-yield bolts in more recent years I am a bit wary and wanted to make sure that was not the case here before I dismantle things. I hate having a vehicle out of action waiting on parts.
That being said, back when I was in the trade I was never involved in putting 415hp through a diff (or anything else for that matter) so perhaps I should take a cue from your expert. Now to find where to source the correct bolts...
#34
#35
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The XF and so as I understand it the Lincoln carrier is a butchered Ford 8.8 with Ford 8.0 internals. Not shared by any others in that combo that I know about.
#36
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I installed the Quaife differential last week. A few things worth noting;
I contacted Tom Lenthall Jaguar regarding the crownwheel bolts; they assured me they have always re-used the bolts without drama. Makes sense to me as they are not torque-yield bolts so not single use.
I purchased Timken bearings 'set 37'. These are not the correct bearing; the cone (inner) is the same as what is required here but the cup / race (outer) of set 37 is narrower and incorrect; the correct part is 603012 (presumably as mentioned above and elsewhere 603011 works also; 603012 was what was in mine). I found that in order to disassemble the diff, I had to butcher the bearing on the circlip side by breaking the cage and removing the rollers, in order to wiggle the carrier out of the housing. This meant that, having instaklled the new- correct- bearing cones with the wrong cup, I had to likewise destroy one of the new bearings to remove the carrier again to change the cups. I have not seen this mentioned anywhere, but with the circlip removed I could not see any way of woithdrawing the bearing cup obnce it was in place. With the carrier removed, the cup can be knocked through from the outside.
I have to complement Quaife on the machining of the diff; backlash ended up identical before & after the swap (at a tight-ish .004") so apparently the diff matches the original by very fine tolerances. I did not disturb the pinion so was not able to measure preload, just e-used shim and circlip.
I contacted Tom Lenthall Jaguar regarding the crownwheel bolts; they assured me they have always re-used the bolts without drama. Makes sense to me as they are not torque-yield bolts so not single use.
I purchased Timken bearings 'set 37'. These are not the correct bearing; the cone (inner) is the same as what is required here but the cup / race (outer) of set 37 is narrower and incorrect; the correct part is 603012 (presumably as mentioned above and elsewhere 603011 works also; 603012 was what was in mine). I found that in order to disassemble the diff, I had to butcher the bearing on the circlip side by breaking the cage and removing the rollers, in order to wiggle the carrier out of the housing. This meant that, having instaklled the new- correct- bearing cones with the wrong cup, I had to likewise destroy one of the new bearings to remove the carrier again to change the cups. I have not seen this mentioned anywhere, but with the circlip removed I could not see any way of woithdrawing the bearing cup obnce it was in place. With the carrier removed, the cup can be knocked through from the outside.
I have to complement Quaife on the machining of the diff; backlash ended up identical before & after the swap (at a tight-ish .004") so apparently the diff matches the original by very fine tolerances. I did not disturb the pinion so was not able to measure preload, just e-used shim and circlip.
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