For Centric, here's what I get on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...r+xkr&_sacat=0

 

Hi all, not sure about the later cars but with the XJ40 there is only 1mm wear allowance before the rotors are out of there. Not sure that you would be getting the rotors from Ford, yes maybe for the X and later S (Mondeo and Lincoln) generally if you can see a definite lip they will be getting close.
Nothing special about replacing brakes if you remember to open the bleed screw before you push the piston back into the caliper to evacuate the old fluid.

 

I get stuff from Rock Auto
When you go there you will see a little heart symbol next to the rotor you need. Denoting its a customer favorite.
Amazon prime has it too- can you believe how tech is evolving.
I am going to deffer to David on this one, he has a good grip on it.

 

Quite a range in price on ebay - from $55 to $255. The more expensive ones are slotted. For normal driving those should add about 1 1/2 inches to your manliness, if that matters.

Pick your favorite retailer - ebay, Amazon, Rock Auto, etc. A Centric P/N 121.20030 will be the same part from anyone.

You still need to figure out why one side is wearing more than the other. Crud on the guide pins is a common problem that cleaning and lubrication will cure.

I'd measure the thickness to see if they really need replacement. Here are the specs:

 

Esplain that slowly to me Lucy.

 

Drilled and slotted gives you 2"

 

I can tell those that have rain from those that have rain by their comments on the worthlessness of slotted rotors.

I have internally vented solid on one of my older cars, and internally vented not solid on the other. When the monsoon hits there is enough spray that when I get on the brake pedal in the solid rotor car, the rotor is water logged and nothing happens. The one without the solid rotors has no noticeable delay in these conditions.

For those running a daily driver rain/shine I would go with slotted rotors, cross drilled, or both. I notice a big difference when things are seriously wet, same model of car vs same model of car.

Cross drilled may inhibit rotor life, I am not sure about slotted.

 

Very true. As you say, those of us that drive in rain certainly understand their benefits. The difference is night and day when it comes to stopping during a downpour!

There is no loss in longevity of a slotted rotor* unless you buy a very cheaply made one. An example is there was a company that advertised slotted rotors with the slots cut to a sharp "V" shape. This type cut creates points of failure, as the tip of the V becomes a focal point for stress (Metallurgy 101). Almost all slotted rotors are cut with a "U" shaped channel to avoid this.
Cross drilled will show stress cracks after the very first year, even with chamfered holes, as they cannot chamfer inside the internal air channel, again leaving sharp edges and a heightened stress point for cracks to start.

If cross drilled 'look' is more preferable, I'd look into slotted and dimpled first.

V

*Increased pad wear is to be expected....

 

The two price points for the centric rotors seem to relate to whether or not they're high carbon, and I know Q&C had stated a preference for high carbon rotors.

FYI, got a price on front pads and rotors at my local Jag dealer: $1,070.

 

I live in Tucson. Believe it or not, I do know what rain is. We are in the middle of OUR monsoon season now. I don't drive my convertibles in the rain though.

 

Pk4144,
The Centric part# that David provided is high carbon. These are to the specs of Jaguar.

I have redesigned the brakes on several of my cars because they were inadequate- changing everything in the chain. Even have Kevlar shoes made by a friend who ran Raybestos.

I find our Jaguar's stopping power even more extraordinary than its acceleration. So why question perfection. They have taken a holistic approach where overall this is the best combination. Its as if the one compromise they were willing to settle for was heavy brake-dust. Not an issue for me, I have ceramic coated my wheels, they rinse right off.

The price at local jag is not too bad, they are making $500, so would you with that overhead. Correction: just noticed its for fronts only. Its steep.

 

David whats this about changing the size.
I honestly dont understand.
I am interested in bringing the tire out- was going to consider spacer or larger wheel.

 

One more question.
So I went ahead and got the front pads replaced. Went to a well-regarded local shop who told me I was at close to the limit for the rotors, but that the Jag spec for the rotors is tight, so they should be good for one more set of pads.
They seem to stop fine, smooth, no squeaks, but... there's what can best be described as a slight creaking, shudder-groan sound (and very slight) vibration right before I come to a complete stop. This is literally in the last two feet of motion between like 1mph and full stop. And if I take my foot off the brake verrrry slowly I can create the creaky/shuddery sound for a few seconds-- again, at very slow speeds, like 2mph.
It wouldn't normally bother me but I was stop-n-go, between stopped and 10 mph, on the freeway for about and hour and even though it only lasts for a second or two, this slight creaky/groan sound every time I came to a complete stop was driving be INSANE. I feel like I've been in cars that did this, but never had it happen to a car of mine.
It was suggested I didn't break in, or "bed," the pads properly. It was also suggested this will go away?
Any thoughts? I've got less than 100 miles on the pads. I just don't want to have this drive me nuts for the next 20,000 miles or so, and we do a lot of stop-and-go here in LA.
Is there a solution here?

 

Before I would do anything on my own I would go back to the guy who installed them and tell him what your problem is and have him look at the brakes . Did he turn the rotors or just do a pad slap. Also what did the old pads look like. Did he give you the old parts. Did he replace any of the brake hardware like spring clips . I assume he will say there is nothing wrong but have him check anyway. As for bedding the pads it is necessary if you turned or replaced the rotors. The bedding process is done to transfer some of the pad material onto the rotors .

 

When I ran my workshop the last thing we did before signing off any brake work was to drive the car and perform a break-in regime, basically accelerate to <>50kph and fairly heavy braking repeating about 5-6 times. Prior to having a moisture detector this was also a good way of checking if the fluid needed changing, had the pedal go to the floor once
Also we always recommended having the rotors skimmed to remove the polished surface and give the new pads something to bed into, customers choice in the end but we did place a disclaimer on the invoice regarding noise and/or shudder. I have just checked the new rotors I have in the garage waiting to go on the XJR and the fronts have. 2mm wear factor and the rears have 1.5

Sticking guide pins would have an effect on braking performance but I would have thought you would have noticed the car pulling to one side?

 

Pads aren't bedded properly. You can either do the super- hard- to- duplicate- on- busy- public- roads procedure of alternating between hard braking and minutes of driving to cool them off, or you can just hit the canyons and use the brakes hard and enjoy the drive.

 

Well, if I must...

Took a drive up to Angeles Crest. Seemed to help-- to be clear, to "bed" the brakes I'm supposed to brake hard but NOT stop, and it's kind of a rinse-and-repeat thing, right? Sorrta what doing that road hard is like. Didn't cure my issue but I think it's better.

But it DID give me an excuse to do the Angeles Crest again. If you're in Southern California and you haven't hit the Angeles Crest Highway, hard, you're missing what is, for me, the best proving ground in southern California.

Especially early evenings (post-work) on weeknights, when the car-club, top-gear kids come out -- be warned, you WILL be challenged. And I don't care how sweet your ride is - if you don't know this road, you WILL get smoked. I got smoked on the way up by a blacked-out Camaro that looked like a ZL-1, but couldn't be sure. Sweet JESUS that car was fast. Coming down (I'm more confident down, don't know why) I was pushing someone in a tricked-out 370Z. He missed the line a few times so I backed off. All in all, it was awesome.

If I keep doing it, maybe the issue will disappear...

 

I am assuming they scuffed the rotors up before the new pads went on? I don't mean turning them on a lathe, but just a scuff to help the pads bed in. If they didn't do that and just threw the pads in, the creaking won't go away.

Additionally, your idea of hard braking may very well be different than mine, and every pad and application is different. When I installed the Porterfield R4S pads and Brembo rotors in my Land Cruiser, I went out to bed them the way I've done so in the past with that exact same combo in much lighter cars. Curiously, they didn't bed properly and I had to go stand the thing on its nose a few times to get them settled.

Either way, it's just an issue of the pads not bedding. Too bad you have such a horrible road to do it on. As part of my giving back to this community, I'd be happy to relieve you of this burden and bed them in for you if you fly me out there.

 

Groceries car? fashion statement?
I have drums all the way around.

 

DD in the winter, mountain assault weapon/over landing rig in the summer. They're blanks, and they're hidden behind the factory wheels, so who cares if it's a fashion statement? I've got 6500 lbs. to stop with 12" rotors and four piston calipers inside a wheel/tire combo that weighs around 115 lbs. per corner; do you think I'm going to screw around with cross drilled Chineseum rotors and $20 Autozone pads? Of course you do, otherwise you wouldn't have asked.