What color 4 piston calipers. Red I hope.
Thinking of getting 9" front and rear drums on my Land Cruiser powercoated red- doing the 'understated' thing.

 

Oh. I found a DRL solution for our cars.
Just havent found a quality bulb yet.

 

What is your point?

 

Thinking of taking the old-fashioned huge indicator bulb and making it a switchback drl/indicator

 

I'd be interested in the DRL!

WRAIR

 

I have been studying the drl situation for a while. looked at many possibilities.

Decided that the white led strip does not suit this car- at all. Its like a 45 year old at a roller staking rink and he did not take his kid there.

The tiny classy incandescent amber drls that come with the car do suit it. But they now look really old fashioned and DIM. And inadequate when everyone is used to seeing a much brighter light.

The placement of the DRL was an issue, I was initially going to simply put a t10 in place of the amber incandescent t10. And still may do this.


A new alternative kills two birds with one stone and looks stock. The big incandescent indicator bulb would loook more modern and be more effective if it was a LED. Well they make LED bulbs that work as both, a white projector DRL when indicator is off, and switch to flashing amber when the turn signal is activated.

Just havent found a reputable manufacturer for the bulb. These bulbs you can get from amazon are very unreliable- cant have that.

 

I design optics for high powered LED's.

If you keep the temps down, the "chinese junk" LED's will likely hold up. These are being put in an enclosed area without flow; your first experiment may have failed from peak temps at the LED itself getting to hot.

If you can get thermal conductivity with how you mount, the live will go up dramatically.

Maybe these aren't putting out the sort of power of the projects I do; but if you can thermally couple the board to pull heat out into a place where there is airflow, the LED's will be brighter per watt, and last a lot longer.

 

Thanks a million.
That info has helped me in many other areas.
I erroneously assumed it was cold solder.

Heat dissipation for me is easy. Now that I know what to look for.
Are they also over-driving them? are you recommending lowering the incoming voltage?

 

I've put LED on the running lights side of my 2010 (not the ambers as discussed).
It took several tries, as the fit inside the headlamp housing is tight. The first set I got was the correct mount but the soldered on LED's were 1mm larger that the opening, making it impossible to insert. The second set I bought was similar to those shown by Q&C, but again, now I had a proper diameter, only to find the bulb was so long you could not get enough room inside the housing to line it up with the mounting hole and insert them.

I haven't looked at the outside ambers to see if they pose similar problems, but the inner ones were a pain.

The mounts are also plastic/ABS so you get nothing to help wick away heat.


I also put the side markers (in front of the door) from 2007 - 2009 on my 2010, with white LEDs, as I really missed how visible they were to cars along side me when I wanted a lane change.

Vince

 

What do you think about swapping out the silly huge indicator bulb that has its own huge socket for some reason. Thats what I am proposing changing into DRL socket.

 

I'm not sure on over-driving. You could setup a test pair. First test that they are about as bright as each other. Then you take one that you run 24/7 for a few days/weeks and the other you left off. Then compare the two. If the one being run was noticeably dimmer, then it is getting too hot/over driven.

If they function just fine exposed to air flow in test A, but konk out when in head light housing, heat dissipation is the issue.

I am running 100W in an application about that size, but the technology to pull that much heat out from such a small source is $$$. You shouldn't be needing that much, but it is still an important design element no matter the wattage.

Anything you can do to measure temp at LED(in open room flow), and measure temp when in the housing will help you sort out a reliable system. If the temp at LED is peaking above optimal life will be cut dramatically.

 

Q&C - regarding the DRL story that you are working on...would you be able to start a new thread? The DRL conversation has become confused by being in the 'quick brake question (not my area of expertise...).

RE: DRL. You are proposing removing the current socket and putting in a new one. If the first filament (blinker) retains its current function, then this new socket would also require a hot when ignition is on wire to the socket? I looked at the Sirius bulbs you linked to, and their size won't fit the current socket, and in addition, there is no wiring diagram.

I've always wanted DRLs as I think there are important safety considerations for them. So I encourage you to finish your deliberations. Let me know if I can help.

Best,
Wrair

 

Will do, would love to collaborate.
Meanwhile- the bulb above was just 'working title' it will however fit and there is just one wire that has to go to a positive, like the side marker.