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I suspect that the shudder may be caused by the e-diff fluid. It's possible that, with age and mileage, it has deteriorated or become contaminated and, particularly when cold, doesn't lubricate as well as when new. Try the cheap and easy "fix" first - change the e-diff fluid. But be sure to use only the fluid specified by Jaguar for that e-diff.
I have a 2011 XFR and I feel both the rear wheel and steering wheel shuddering.
the symptoms are the same exact as the OP and the scenario of where I notice it is the same exact as the OP. I need to find time to get the diff fluid changed.
Does anyone know what the correct fluid is, and how much of it I need (so I can bring it to my mechanic). How do I know if I have the e-diff or mechanical diff?
i know some people are saying "its normal" but others are saying they are replacing their diffs.........2 completely opposite things. its hard to feel comfortable with it
This was a common issue with the 04-08 F150s. My 2010 XKR does this although it's not nearly as noticeable as it was in my 07 Lincoln Mark LT. Ford prescribed a change of clutch packs and fluid for the rear diff.
I never did it (mainly because of the 600$ + price to do it), and Ford said it wouldn't hurt anything if I never did it either. Just lived with the vibration during turns.
However, id like to know more about the XKR rear diff and the solution to this.
This problem is more prevent when the car has been sitting over night or not driven a couple hrs.
When first starting out, when I make a stop at a stop sign or intersection, when I start moving while making a left turn, I feel sort of a shudder from the rear end it seems like? Maybe even a hesitation if you may.
The car doesn't do it at all when accelerating from a stop and making a right hand turn.
my car has the same issue. i havent had an opportunity to do so, but it might be a good idea......change the diff fluid. its MUCH cheaper than changing the whole dig
my car has the same issue. i havent had an opportunity to do so, but it might be a good idea......change the diff fluid. its MUCH cheaper than changing the whole dig
Looking through this thread, I recognize the symptom, which I had on my 2010 XKR since I bought it in 2014. I had a very pronounced judder when accelerating from low speed, either right or left, especially from cold. It felt very mechanical, but didn’t seem to be getting worse, so I more or less lived with it.
Then, two weeks back, the car failed the state inspection because [don’t stop reading here, I’m not going off at a tangent!] the rear registration plate lamps wouldn’t come on. Searching for help on Jaguar Forums, I found a post where fellow member RedSky advised that the rear junction/fuse box between the rear seats controlled the lamps and suggested resetting it by disconnecting the power and shorting out the junction box for ~20 seconds. I was skeptical, but had run out of other ideas and so I tried it. And guess what? My rear plate lamps work again.
Now here comes the relevant part: ever since I reset the rear junction/fuse box, the juddering rear end phenomenon is gone! Without looking into it, I am guessing that the box also controls the active differential, and resetting it fixed the problem.
At first, I didn’t believe it, but two weeks later, paying attention to whether the problem would reappear, I haven’t seen it since! Seems like a quick, cheap fix, and I hope someone else can benefit.
Now here comes the relevant part: ever since I reset the rear junction/fuse box, the juddering rear end phenomenon is gone! Without looking into it, I am guessing that the box also controls the active differential, and resetting it fixed the problem.
At first, I didn’t believe it, but two weeks later, paying attention to whether the problem would reappear, I haven’t seen it since! Seems like a quick, cheap fix, and I hope someone else can benefit.
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Uuh..how does one "reset" the fuse box? Is this the one behind the rear 'seat'?
Yes, the box between the rear seats. Pull off the panel to access the box and fuses. There is a large power cable at the bottom right..
To reset the box, disconnect the power cable (be careful not to touch it on anything!) and then use a piece of wire to connect the power terminal on the box (where you just removed the power cable from) to ground (I used the bolts you can just see at the top of the picture). RedSky's advice was short this out for 20sec; I only did it one time and 20 sec worked for me).
Now the box is reset. Reconnect the power cable and you're good to go. Rear junction box, power cable is bottom right.
I have had the same issue with my 2013 XKR for more than the past year. Spoke with the dealer abut it when it was in for a scheduled service about six months ago. They advised that the E-diff is not "warmed up" at that point and the judder/shudder is normal. Wasn't sure about the answer and made sure that this item is mentioned on the service records just in case there is any future problem.
I have had that juddering for the five years that I've owned my 2010 XKR, but I feel it in the steering wheel, meaning coming from the front end, not the differential. Sometimes it's there, sometimes not.
I get both on my '10 XKR. The occasional steering wheel shudder while parking and shuddering from the rear on low speed turns when the car is still warming up.
I get both on my '10 XKR. The occasional steering wheel shudder while parking and shuddering from the rear on low speed turns when the car is still warming up.
My 2011 xkr does that shudder turning left across traffic when cold. It goes away after it warms up. I actually bought the oil to change it out but haven't yet. I have read many threads about this shudder but this is the first I have heard about reseting that box. Are you pulling out the large plug, bottom right, attaching a wire to it and grounding it as described to the bolts for 20 secs?
The E-diff is also mechanically different than the non-E diffs, so there could still be a physical deviation or discrepancy.
I've had fresh diff fluid still in bottles for about a year now, just haven't got access to a lift. I will also try the Short-the-Post trick also, zero dollars and even a 1% chance makes it worth a shot.
I have had the same issue with my 2013 XKR for more than the past year. Spoke with the dealer abut it when it was in for a scheduled service about six months ago. They advised that the E-diff is not "warmed up" at that point and the judder/shudder is normal. Wasn't sure about the answer and made sure that this item is mentioned on the service records just in case there is any future problem.
Exact same experience with my service tech as well. He didn't seem concerned, and since I've brought this up at each service I'm not either if it all goes to hell one day.
My 2011 xkr does that shudder turning left across traffic when cold. It goes away after it warms up. I actually bought the oil to change it out but haven't yet. I have read many threads about this shudder but this is the first I have heard about reseting that box. Are you pulling out the large plug, bottom right, attaching a wire to it and grounding it as described to the bolts for 20 secs?
Almost... disconnect the large bottom right power connector, and ground the terminal on the junction box (NOT the power cable you just disconnected from it - this will short your battery to ground and either blow a fuse or melt the wire) for 20 sec.
David, sorry for being slow. when you say not the power cable you disconnected but ground the terminal on the junction box. How am I grounding the terminal? Thanks
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