rear pad replacement
#1
rear pad replacement
OK so I know I'm being a little brain dead here but for the life of me I can't figure out how to retract the rear parking brake to change out my rear pads. This is on the standard floating single piston rear caliper on a 09 XKR. I know that I will need to rotate the piston to retract it to put on the new pads. My question is there an interim way to relieve the E-brake tension to allow the pads to clear the wear ring. Already removed the e=brake cable and that didn't do it.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by xkrmd; 06-25-2011 at 11:42 AM.
#2
OK so I know I'm being a little brain dead here but for the life of me I can't figure out how to retract the rear parking brake to change out my rear pads. This is on the standard floating single piston rear caliper on a 09 XKR. I know that I will need to rotate the piston to retract it to put on the new pads. My question is there an interim way to relieve the E-brake tension to allow the pads to clear the wear ring. Already removed the e=brake cable and that didn't do it.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
If you do in fact have the cables off, the caliper should slide off of the pads while they remain in position. Then the pads can be changed and the pistons retracted. When the new pads are in and the calipers reinstalled, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect. That puts the E-Brake in a mode to reinitialize. First start the engine and pump the brakes to extend the pistons to the new pads, then push the brake and set the E-Brake. Set and release the brake three times and you should be good to go.
Good luck!
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ejjbee (01-31-2016)
#3
#4
Thanks Steve
There was just enough slack in the cable to allow it to be disengaged from the clevis. Turns out that my brain malfunction was trying to remove the caliper as a whole as opposed to removing the guide pins and sliding the caliper off the pads.
Moe=she-sa I bought a universal kit from harbor freight yrs ago for about $25 comes in handy for all the cheap calipers in the backs of cars now a days that use the intergrated ebrake in the caliper. I always use to use the old needle nose pliers but near impailed myself in the past with a rusty/stubborn ford caliper the kit makes it much easier.
There was just enough slack in the cable to allow it to be disengaged from the clevis. Turns out that my brain malfunction was trying to remove the caliper as a whole as opposed to removing the guide pins and sliding the caliper off the pads.
Moe=she-sa I bought a universal kit from harbor freight yrs ago for about $25 comes in handy for all the cheap calipers in the backs of cars now a days that use the intergrated ebrake in the caliper. I always use to use the old needle nose pliers but near impailed myself in the past with a rusty/stubborn ford caliper the kit makes it much easier.
#5
There is a "release to service position" application in the Jaguar IDS/SDD equipment. That is the proper method to use for changing pads. An I am a little worried that you say the E-Brake cable has been disconnected. How did you accomplish that?? Without the release to service position being done, there is generally way too little slack in the cables to disengage them without damage.
If you do in fact have the cables off, the caliper should slide off of the pads while they remain in position. Then the pads can be changed and the pistons retracted. When the new pads are in and the calipers reinstalled, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect. That puts the E-Brake in a mode to reinitialize. First start the engine and pump the brakes to extend the pistons to the new pads, then push the brake and set the E-Brake. Set and release the brake three times and you should be good to go.
Good luck!
If you do in fact have the cables off, the caliper should slide off of the pads while they remain in position. Then the pads can be changed and the pistons retracted. When the new pads are in and the calipers reinstalled, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect. That puts the E-Brake in a mode to reinitialize. First start the engine and pump the brakes to extend the pistons to the new pads, then push the brake and set the E-Brake. Set and release the brake three times and you should be good to go.
Good luck!
#6
Steve, what is the difference between using the IDS "release to service position" and simply releasing the e-brake from the center console? Also, if one uses the IDS "release to service position" application, is it necessary to the disconnect the battery after pad replacement? One last question: pistons are retracted by turning clockwise or anti-clockwise? (Seen one other thread which mentioned anti-clockwise, while most threads mention clockwise). Many thanks!
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
#7
The release to service position is advantageous for two reasons.
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
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#8
The release to service position is advantageous for two reasons.
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
Thanks, Steve, that makes sense.
#9
The release to service position is advantageous for two reasons.
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
One, it negates the need to disconnect the battery, so other things are not lost. No loosing fuel trim adaptions, clock, etc.
Two, it FULLY releases the brake cables instead of just RELAXING them. That way there is full slack for disconnecting the cables if necessary, and the re-initialization is fully complete.
Just relaxing the cables and disconnecting the battery leaves the actuator mechanism somewhere in the middle. Sometimes when reconnecting the battery and resetting as the instruments say, the Park Brake sets a fault that can't be cleared until you do a code clear with a diagnostic tool. That's no fun for some people. It does that because it starts in the middle, and tightens up way sooner than the module thinks it should. It can interpret that as a fault and make the brake inoperative.
Hope that helps!
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