Metal rear heater manifold for the XK/XKR's 5.0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225950513330

Waterpump metal connection pipe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394530550857

Waterpump metal outlet pipe nipple thing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186098962714

Metal thermostat for XK/XKR
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30550733095

for the XKR crossover pipes
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234864240724

We don't have a metal crossover pipe for the NA XK yet (that I know of)

 

That is correct, the forward CW pipes are for the Supercharged R types only.

All of the above can be found by a search in Ali express, and usually cheaper. Some of your links are not working for me. Always best to check and test parts before fitting thou.
I have installed most on the XF 3.0sc and the water pump.

Hopefully the rear CW manifold and the thermostat housing arrives tomorrow. for the XKD-R.

forward CW(s) pipe XKR only.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...05005944065126

Rear CW Header.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006794094742.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTop MoreOtherSeller.9.759123d5hn2mrx&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.32727 0.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=f1e8fd8e-55d9-40c1-a435-85ceee3f08e6&_t=gps-idcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:f1e8fd8e-55d9-40c1-a435-85ceee3f08e6,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934& pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%2144.85%2144.85%21%21%21391. 02%21391.02%21%402103868a17138217179326458ebda8%21 12000038324849224%21rec%21UK%21714151435%21&utpara m-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_fro m%3A

metal thermostat Body.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006676312217.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTop MoreOtherSeller.9.7bf9eee9nhtMIi&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.32727 0.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=abd28e61-d5cc-4b28-b935-c14571de8ace&_t=gps-idcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:abd28e61-d5cc-4b28-b935-c14571de8ace,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934& pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%2135.41%2135.41%21%21%21308. 70%21308.70%21%40211b813b17138221037806898eca8a%21 12000037988730301%21rec%21UK%21714151435%21&utpara m-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_fro m%3A

Water pump nipple, I would add to your list.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006253405922.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTop MoreOtherSeller.3.13fc56ceTEEpXT&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.32727 0.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=3f7b9172-36b6-459a-b0b7-d58eda32bca9&_t=gps-idcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:3f7b9172-36b6-459a-b0b7-d58eda32bca9,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934& pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%211.77%211.77%21%21%2115.45% 2115.45%21%402103868817138224766431239e2f67%211200 0036481262023%21rec%21UK%21714151435%21&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_fro m%3A

 

new 5.0 rear heater manifold metal cooling pipe


new metal thermostat housing

 

I'm still trying to find a metal coolant crossover Y pipe from under the intake manifold for the 5.0 NA

 

I got the same JLR Centre Rear heater manifold.


I would check for internal flashing (restrictions) in the Left and Right incomer legs, and water flow and flush out, before fitting.
Even open top cover and check Dia of all inlets and outlets internally and the sealing.(You may have too to drill out the inlet / outlet ports.)

The bore of my inlet legs (LH/RH) are 6mm, without hitting the flashing.

The plastic legs are 13mm bore. So need boring/drilling out.

The flange sealing Rings do not look that proud of the flange faces. The Plastic manifold sealing is at least 1mm proud.


The thermostat housing ( DNPINP) marked on the housing body?

Open the cover plate, and check the sealing ring? Not much compression.Less than 1mm

Lower thermostat seal look iffy.

Will probably, change out the old seal and internals into the Alloy body.

Look on the bright side, they are in Alloy, and cheap.

Ill do a full report with photos, later but the car is open just now, I just thought I would give you the word of what to look for incase your job was in progress, like mine.

 

Thanks for posting!


I do believe the rear heater pipe does not need a large bore to
perform properly as it's primary function is to provide
Coolant flow for the cars cabin heating.
Secondary flow comes through the top and bleeds
through a 1/2" outter diameter rubber hose splitting
out to the front Y pipe and other end going to the coolant reservoir.

The 2 legs only need enough flow to pass through
a thin hose to bleed to the coolant reservoir.

Unless you live in a very cold climate requiring alot of
cabin heating.

 

Indeed, You are correct.

The large bore pipe is for the heater matrix, and the smaller is the vent.

Indeed the function of the two outlet legs from the cylinder heads are vents and heated water for the heater matrix.

Non the less, living in Hawick, or Hawaii, an adiquate flow of liquid coolant (of bore 13mm(plastic pipe or 6mm alloy pipe) is needed through the rear heater manifold, and vent pipe (6mm.)

Will not the cw flow through the heater matrix at all times and the air flow controlled passing through it, control the cabin air temperature?

and would not having the correct cw flow and a vent line from the back of the cylinder head be a good idea?

An unknown and restricted flow path of either one or both, can lead to let's say difficulties.

On further inspecting my rear header, it was much the same as the condition found on my previous AJ126S header. (once Bitten, once Shy)

Partly blocked inlet & outlet ports, internally with flashing from the chroming process, see below.

Just suggesting you check all your ports internally for restrictions.

It is a fairly simple two part alloy pipe screwed together, but would benefit from having all the orifices in the correct place and of an adequate size.

Some endoscope shots.


Outlet to Heat matrix from the rear manifold

Close up of the internal of the Outlet port from the rear header.

Close up of the internal of the Outlet port from the rear header.

RH internal leg port to the rear manifold.

RH internal leg port to the rear manifold.


The sealing rings are not very proud from the sealing face, compared to the plastic header pipe.

 

Hmmmm, I don’t remember giving my proctologist permission to release those images…

 

I was a gynaecologist,.... But things changed!

 

wow, thats pretty bad inside!

 

Thought I would share, inside my rear manifold was Polished clean. Very nice metal replacement Im confident it will do much better than plastic

 

Nice, some questions.
Have you recessed `a seal groove into the lower alloy section?
I have never seen an alloy header pipe with a recessed seal groove, they are generally flat faced and RVT sealed and screwed, as in secured together.
Did you have to bore out the inlet legs, and the outlet pipe to the original sizes 10mm and 13mm.
Was the temperature sensor pocket smooth where the O ring seal sits.
The Leg O rings look the same as the original alloy raised from the flange face, not very proud of the face.
What seal material did you use. Viton?

 

What you see is how the part was shipped from ebay,
there is already a channel recess for the lower portion.
Seal material appears to be polyurethane type.
Legs o-ring is raised but not as high as OEM,
Sensor pocket is also smooth and polished.

Impressed with quality

 

Only half of the clam shell has a recess for a seal,
if that is what you are asking.
The rest is of the manifold is cleanly polished.

 

Yes thank you. And the bore sizing for coolant flow?

 

Sorry forgot about this.

Just some quick feed back after opening up various Plastic Thermostat housings.

• Original JLR used removed leaking at 65K date stamped (2012)
• New Ali Express OEM copy.
• New original JLR old stock AJ812976 (2012) on bag label, and stamped 4-2015 on body, and pin stamped 15-8-2015 on the coolant inlet.

Alloy Thermostat housing ( DNPINP)

• New DNPINP Alloy Bodied Thermostat housing.

All opened up and inspected internally.

Comments.

All plastic Housings. made up of 9 parts. (3 x torx screws =1 item)
Plastic top cap secured with three coarse thread Torx T20 screws.
On removal of the top cap, with the Dia 14mm x 1.5mm steel spring by 55 mm long acting on the inside of plastic housing of the larger spring seat guide.
The inner larger spring carrier acting on the top of the Dia 43mm x 3.5mm thick by 54mm long spring.
The larger spring sits on the seat guide.
On removal the thermostat accessible and can be removed. stamped rating 95deg C.
The thermostat Has rubber bonded on the upper and lower sealing surfaces.
The brass bulb acting internally on the stainless steel pin, which exerts a force down on the lower housing pocket and a force up the large spring carrier against the spring force.
By dropping and increasing the temperature in water, from an initial thermostat length of 48/47mm the pin moved to 52/54mm free length.

Original JLR 2015 seal:

The sealing ring installed in the 4.7mm groove of the thermostat body is 5.5mm deep OD 63mm , id 57mm with locating spigots inner and outer to centrally locate.

the groove is OD 63.7mm id 57.25mm by 4.7mm deep.

Other seals were of a solid rectangular sections, including the original 2012 JLR seal.

All top caps were screwed down to the body face to face.



Alloy Housing. DNPINP

As above with the solid rectangular slightly narrowing vee shaped seal at the base into the housing body.
The securing screws are Torx head T30 x M6 thread.
The internals being the same including the sealing ring, and face to face top cap securing.


In Summary,

There would appear to be very little difference between all the variants of plastic and Alloy thermostat housing.
The weakness would appear to be in the sealing ring and material longevity.

With the aim of improving this, I have included an additional backing viton O ring at the housing base id, 58mm x 3mm thick. To give better sealing, (if that is the word) and 6mm of compression in the 4.7mm groove.