I'll give my on this one.

Standard or OEM grade combinations of pads & rotors wear at a fairly consistent rate, but the pads tend to wear quicker, which is why you see a lot of brake dust & go through (typically) two sets of pads to one set of rotors.

How many miles really depends on your driving style. But there is a sort of "balance" with the OEM equipment, kind of 2:1 of pads:rotors

If you change this balance by going to a different "harder" pad but sticking with OEM rotors then the ratio changes, often going the other way so that the rotors wear quicker than the pads. Makes sense if your pads aren't shedding as much dust, then they aren't wearing as fast, the rotors are being consumed instead.

My rule of thumb is if you go for an uprated pad, then you need to do the same with the rotors.

The combination I have tried and am very pleased with is a ceramic pad with a "high carbon" rotor. Very low dust, and if you hammer them hard, good fade resistance. And no problems with rotors warping, which was the big sore point for me.

My choice:

Ceramic pads; EBC Yellowstuff & Redstuff
Rotors; Centric/Powerstop "High-Carbon", either plain or slotted (also R1 Concepts, same)

But of course, there are compromises with this combination.

You can get some squealing from time to time, especially when cold after a big heat cycle.

The initial "bite" when the brakes are cold, is not really there. The braking force comes on more progressively instead, more of a soft start, the pedal doesn't feel stiff as you apply the brakes cold, but the harder you press, the faster the car stops. So you do need to apply a bit more force when the brakes are cold.

Those are the downsides, the upside is very low dust, less wear, and no fading out, and when you do get them hot the pedal does stiffen up, which is when you want it to, i.e. on the track or during "spirited driving"