Hi, new owner of XK '07 base coupe, 78Kmi. In very good condition, with the usual fluids and minor repairs of a car it's age. Still the best looking car on the road.

Note I've been fixing my own cars for 40 years, and have 5 fully self-maintained BMW's in my history.

So, I'm using SDD V130. Similar to BMW's ISTA, a dealer-level diagnostic, which, like SDD, is widely available in the aftermarket.

SDD's OK as a top-level diagnostic, with reservations noted below. I've reviewed the SDD Manual dated Feb '12.

• Do later releases of SDD provide more tests for the XK than V130? Any idea where to get a feature breakdown of the various versions? Are later releases worth buying for additional features?
• I'd like it to run a DTC scan without the fuss of stepping through the symptom block diagram. Unable to find the procedure to just get DTC's. Can anyone point me to it?
• Is there any way of getting current real-time sensor and signals data? "Measurement applications" gives some data, but I'm unable to gather data. Still working at it. Any tips on getting this sensor data in real time?
• Still, the list of SDD sensor data in "Measurement applications" is a bit thin (for example, no fluid pressure sensor data in the ZF tranny; no actual pressure readings from the TPMS sensors and many more). BMW repairs had INPA, factory-level software which called out most of the switch and sensor data in the cars. Is IDS worth chasing down for specific sensor data? Or is there another better tool that will give me highly individualized XK sensor data? Some OBD analyzer that is robust in capturing detailed data?

Thanks very much for your insights and pointing me in the right direction.

Best,

Panther

 

From what I know SDD does full DTC scan automatically, DTC's are displayed by module after the interface type connection as green checks or red x.

IDS gives you the ability to chase and scan individual functions and codes.

 

IDS program is embedded into SDD - you can pull it up by going into the program file under IDS folder.

You won't benefit from a newer version than 130. Updates for your MY were done. Newer versions are built to accommodate newer cars.

 

I tend to just use an OBD dongle and an app on my phone if I want to do anything other than configure modules as it is always to hand and a lot quicker to operate.

The attached is what my app shows for the gearbox on my '10 XKR. I (thankfully) don't have TPMS so don't know what it shows for that.

 

For the dtc read, click on service functions from the main screen at the bottom...then click on the recommendation tab...scroll down and use the vehicle scan feature...it should scan every module and show you any codes

 

I use version 131.03 which is probably very similar to yours. In order to get the most options for Testing, diagnostics or recommended actions the way I do it is go into the diagnosis tab and then symptoms and just start clicking various symptoms. I try to click on symptoms for different modules so that it will give me the option to reconfigure those modules because in some of the reconfigurations you can choose various options that don’t appear anywhere else.

there is not much documentation on what the different versions do or even really how to do them. I have found probably the same material you have found on the Jag repair site. Most important thing I would suggest is making sure you have a nice clean battery monitor on your car operating to give you 13.6 V because when the voltage drops **** ****s up. If the voltage is noisy extremely high extremely low your modules will be programmed into unrecognizable states and sometimes you can’t fix that so make sure you get a good solid 13.6 clean voltage

after you’ve collected all your symptoms then it will show you various trouble codes that may be related and then it will show you unrelated codes as well when you press the show unrelated codes tab. You also have recommendations and one you select something from there up pops another tab for EXTRAS which will allow you to reprogram various modules as new or existing. There is a jaguar document on the Jag repair site that tells you the sequence of module programming if you change module which is extremely important and I suggest you read it

Also under the recommendations tab it should be a datalogger which allows you to pop up various OBD signals and look at them live and I’ll post a picture of what that looks like

 

And you're not asking but just to understand, when using SDD, you may see recommendations to update modules. Note that those don't necessarily apply to your car. What I do when I see a recommendation, is check to see if there is a TSB that applies to my car. If not, I ignore the recommendation FWIW.

 

I also use the icarsoft 930 jaguar specific scanner...it is great at module scans, obd2 data and live data for all modules

 

Thanks!

Done research on these without success.

1. SDD v130: I've run the "clear all diagnostic codes" routine several times. When I tab "unrelated events" the old DTC's still come up. How do I clean out the old DTC's? Most are junk for disconnecting the battery while working on systems.
2. SDD Again: It appears that "recommendation" routines are displayed when they're relevant to the specific trouble code. If this is the case, is there any way to display *all* the available recommendation routines in one place?
3, SDD Again: What does vehicle reset do? Learned adaptations for Engine and Transmission? Other? Can't find an explanation.

Again, thanks--

Panthera

 

Did you try this to clear your stored codes? I ask because you phrase a bit differently (not using the word "stored")

 

I believe there was a technical service bulletin on the Jag repair site that talked about a flaw where SDD would not erase stored codes during the clear all stored codes routine and it’s suggested a different methodology for running it. I’ll see if I can find the document.

edit. Just looked and couldnt find it. Maybe I got it from here. I have a copy on my computer so I will take a look there

 

Thanks, Aracuda and Sean.

I made some progress with the new-to-me 07 XK with SDD and the 6HP26 today. Not going through the whole process, just some tips and observations.

1. Fluid Change: A week ago, I replaced the Tranny fluid, filter and the interface connections (sealing sleeves) between the mechatronics and turbine sections. Note that I used the FCP Euro kit for the 6HP26 for the '07-8 BMW 650i. Same tranny, all the same parts. All ZF sourced parts. For those who haven't done it, I've attached the CTSC version of the fluid and parts change routine. Contains all you need. I used LG6 from ZF. Price for entire kit was $300. Note that FCP has a lifetime guarantee on everything, including the fluid -- but you have to ship anything back to them at your expense to claim the guarantee. So, in 40-50K I'll replace it on their (partial) nickel. BTW, not trying to get into a discussion of whether I needed to change it or not. ZF recommends changing at less than 70K miles, so that what I do. Also, I've seen that a couple of non-LG alternatives have been checked out and spec'd here, and that's fine too.
2. Fluid Condition: The tranny has 80K miles on it, and lived most of it's life in the New Mexico desert. So, I was prepared for meaningful fluid wear. Two quick indicators of fluid wear: color and smell. LG6 is a pale amber color when new. As usage and temperature cause it to age, it will turn darker amber until it is translucent-to-deep brown. I've refreshed my fluid on the 530 after 50K miles and found it to be light brown -- but I wasn't in the desert. This fluid on the XK was dark brown (not black), but key point is that it didn't smell bad. Very dark, smelly fluid means it's burnt, and probably loaded with clutch wear crap, indicating meaningful wear or abuse. So, no smell, translucent brown and nothing on the filter magnets means the fluid and the tranny were treated well, given where it was living. There should be 9.5 liters total capacity; I drained 5 liters before the mecha came off, and another liter or so when the mecha was removed. I returned 6.5-7 liters when I refilled it. KEY POINT that DIY'ers miss on this is that the engine must be running for the final fill, and fluid temp shouldn't exceed 40C while doing it. Also the $%#^&ing exhaust pipe goes right past the fill hole, so be ready to wear gloves or have the right tool to put the cap on in a small cramped hot space.
3. Interfaces (Sealing Sleeves): Several names for these. They are 5 plastic/rubber connectors that interface the mecha to the turbine section. The interface connections are important, because they stiffen and shrink over time, particularly in a hot environment. Replacing them means dropping the mechatronics. Makes for messy job. Again, in the CTSC doc attached. Mine were slightly shrunk, and the square one snapped in half when I bent it. So, do them between 70-100, particularly if the tranny is used in a hot climate. Photo below. Not hard to remove the mecha, helps if you have a partner's help when lifting it into place and the first bolts in. You must use a torque wrench in the job. Usually 8-10 NM.
4, Retraining the ZF: ZF says you should clear adaptations and retrain the tranny after parts are replaced. I take this to include when the fluid and filter are done. I finally found the transmission adaptation clear routine buried in SDD, cleared them and then completed the retraining routine on the road. Felt it smooth out to clean up and downshifts. The training pattern matters, though you don't need to be OCD about it. NOTE: The adaptation procedure below is for the BMW 6HP19, circa 2007. I used Software T, and it seemed to do just fine. If someone has the right one for the Jag 6HP26, please let me know.

Next job: getting Datalogger to work.



Tip for quickly torquing the filter pan.




Typical fluid. Note the right is red; LG6 is light amber. Old fluid should small like new fluid; serious smell indicates damaged fluid. Mine was in the middle, translucent.




Mecha removed to see sealing sleeves. All of them were stiff and shrunken on mine.

 

My Car is sleeping for the winter or I would have pulled up SDD to see where you can reset the TCM. No judgement here on your fluid change. You may or may not have spotted this link. You might ask Graham (Moderator GGG) to add your 2 PDF's to the transmission section (very helpful IMO).

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enance-227403/

Were you able to clear the old codes via the pic above?