Shock question
#41
I heated the outside with a plumbers torch. Then took my press and clamped it down, used a breaker bar and the tools in the tool loan a kit from Auto Zone but nothing. It didn't budge. All I did was tear up more metal. I wish I could see one of these without a bushing in it. I just can't imagine it's a bushing part left in it.
#42
I heated the outside with a plumbers torch. Then took my press and clamped it down, used a breaker bar and the tools in the tool loan a kit from Auto Zone but nothing. It didn't budge. All I did was tear up more metal. I wish I could see one of these without a bushing in it. I just can't imagine it's a bushing part left in it.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ership-211261/
#43
#44
Now I'm starting to wonder if I have the wrong bushings. Everything I saw said these bushings but I looked on Amazon(got them delivered free same day) and the guys below that left a comment said it's not for the lower control arm in front. It's for the back. Even the Beck Arnley website says rear.
Has anyone had any experience with this?
Has anyone had any experience with this?
#45
After looking at my numbers I've decided I'm just going to buy these control arms. For some reason when I ordered my bushings I put in 4 instead of 2. I never knew it until they arrived. So that's 100. I have to buy 2 new inner bushings so that's another 40-50 and now I have to buy one control arm after screwing one up so this route is cheaper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-...00fc%7Ciid%3A1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-...00fc%7Ciid%3A1
#46
Be sure to look at posts talking about purchasing Ford (T-Bird?) parts for the front end. I don't know if it relates to your task, but I understand many are direct replacments, without the 'Jaguar' price tag.
Vince
BTW, it would be helpful if you could fill out the signature section on this site with Year, Model. (Helps us help you) Also a rough location as seen up in the 'Joined' section, as you might find helpful folks near you that can help. Just sayin.......
Vince
BTW, it would be helpful if you could fill out the signature section on this site with Year, Model. (Helps us help you) Also a rough location as seen up in the 'Joined' section, as you might find helpful folks near you that can help. Just sayin.......
#47
#48
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#49
I tried renting the strut spring compressor from Autozone. It's the one with a bolt and then two ends that tighten, you get two of them in a box. I have a problem though because it appears the cap on the top of the strut is too big and the bolts either hit it or are really tight on the sides. Wondering if anyone has used them before or if there is a better option?
#50
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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I tried renting the strut spring compressor from Autozone. It's the one with a bolt and then two ends that tighten, you get two of them in a box. I have a problem though because it appears the cap on the top of the strut is too big and the bolts either hit it or are really tight on the sides. Wondering if anyone has used them before or if there is a better option?
IIRC, start with 2, one on each side, with the long part of the threaded bolt toward the bottom of the strut (i.e. the nut toward the top), placing the ‘hooks’ as far apart as possible on the spring.
Tighten them down as far as you can, that will open up space in the coil on each end. now add the other two compressors 90 degrees from the existing ones, grabbing the coil as far apart as possible and crank them down.
Should be able to release the pressure on the end plates this way, and now you can replace the strut.
#51
That’s what I used, but you need two sets of them (4 total compressors) just to do one spring.
IIRC, start with 2, one on each side, with the long part of the threaded bolt toward the bottom of the strut (i.e. the nut toward the top), placing the ‘hooks’ as far apart as possible on the spring.
Tighten them down as far as you can, that will open up space in the coil on each end. now add the other two compressors 90 degrees from the existing ones, grabbing the coil as far apart as possible and crank them down.
Should be able to release the pressure on the end plates this way, and now you can replace the strut.
#52
Got the drivers side done. My only worry on that side is that I plugged the connector back in for the adaptive part and it didn't go fully in so I pulled it out to make sure it was straight. When I did the little red part of the connector stayed in the strut. I did it again and it looks like everything is good but I know it could be an issue.
On the passenger side- Ugh, I was taking everything off and when I was trying to push down the lower arm to get the strut out I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go down. I pushed pretty hard because it seems to have a spring feel to it. Well, surprise surprise there's a height sensor on that side. I'm not sure if I damaged it or not but there's a good chance. Everything is off of that side and I'm just in the process of putting the new strut in the spring. This is easier said than done. If your spring isn't symmetrical with pressure on all sides then it makes it off and hard to get the cap lined up with the bolt. I should be finished today and then it's off to get aligned. Hopefully I didn't screw too much up.
On the passenger side- Ugh, I was taking everything off and when I was trying to push down the lower arm to get the strut out I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go down. I pushed pretty hard because it seems to have a spring feel to it. Well, surprise surprise there's a height sensor on that side. I'm not sure if I damaged it or not but there's a good chance. Everything is off of that side and I'm just in the process of putting the new strut in the spring. This is easier said than done. If your spring isn't symmetrical with pressure on all sides then it makes it off and hard to get the cap lined up with the bolt. I should be finished today and then it's off to get aligned. Hopefully I didn't screw too much up.
#53
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On the passenger side- Ugh, I was taking everything off and when I was trying to push down the lower arm to get the strut out I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go down. I pushed pretty hard because it seems to have a spring feel to it. Well, surprise surprise there's a height sensor on that side. I'm not sure if I damaged it or not but there's a good chance.
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guy (02-03-2019)
#55
#56
And to KJ. I used the manual on the drivers side. Noticed it said to disconnect ride height sensor but sense I didn't see one I didn't worry about it. On the passenger side I was dumb enough to think it was just the same so I just did the same process. LOL, there the ride height sensor was.
#57
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And to KJ. I used the manual on the drivers side. Noticed it said to disconnect ride height sensor but sense I didn't see one I didn't worry about it. On the passenger side I was dumb enough to think it was just the same so I just did the same process. LOL, there the ride height sensor was.
When I next did the left side (just for completeness), I couldn't find the sensor, and thought maybe it fell off!
#59
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Well this sucks pretty bad. I'm getting a CATS fault with the new struts. And now I see how I should have tested it. Do nothing more than set the new struts up on the engine area and plug them in. I've done that with my old ones and they work fine. ARGH! What a big mistake this was.