Shock question
#81
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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KJ, I mainly noticed it in my neighborhood. When going under 30 around my Jag seemed to move more with each bump or change in the road. At 40+ I didn't notice a difference. The car was smooth with either shock. Honestly, it's very subtle and the first day I thought there was a difference but after driving it for a couple of days I can say for sure it's a smoother ride. Enough to pay 3 times as much for the struts? I guess that's a personal thing for people but for me it was worth it because my wife drives it and all she cares about is a good ride.
Maybe my take on the 'move more with each bump or change in the road' was that the shocks were softer and thus allowed more movement.
#82
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First is how certain are you that you have 2nd gen shocks (or robbing for that matter)? Receipts can say anything.
Jaguars 2010 service manual states: CAUTION: The dampers look identical to those on the CATS (computer active technology suspension) system of 4.2L vehicles, but have a different part number. Resistance across the solenoid pins of an adaptive dynamics damper should be 2 to 3.5 ohms; if more than 5 ohms, you should suspect that the damper is from a CATS system.
(Note: I take it that the 2nd gen is no longer referred to as 'CATS')
Check the resistance of your shocks to validate which generation you have.
Jaguars 2010 service manual states: CAUTION: The dampers look identical to those on the CATS (computer active technology suspension) system of 4.2L vehicles, but have a different part number. Resistance across the solenoid pins of an adaptive dynamics damper should be 2 to 3.5 ohms; if more than 5 ohms, you should suspect that the damper is from a CATS system.
(Note: I take it that the 2nd gen is no longer referred to as 'CATS')
Check the resistance of your shocks to validate which generation you have.
And I'm pretty sure that I checked the part numbers on the shocks before I installed them, but I didn't take any pictures , to be sure.
If I get a chance, I'll check the resistance on them on Friday night.
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CleverName (01-30-2019)
#83
#84
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Queen and Country (01-29-2019)
#85
I have a small problem. There is a knocking sound from the suspension. I think it's probably the top bolt of the strut. On the first set I put on I had no problems getting it torqued down. But these, I just can't get them tight enough to then torque. I'm using an allen wrench but I feel like I'm going to break something I'm having to turn it so hard. Is this normal? Oreillys ordered me a special tool for it but it ended up being a 15 and that nut is a 17. Besides I don't think it does anything different than what I'm doing now.
#87
#88
The only image I found with the washer is that one Sean W points out. If you go to the R&R section, none is shown there, nor is it shown in the IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown)
Note: The parts list makes no distinction (image wise) between standard or adaptive, other that the shocks part numbers.
Note: The parts list makes no distinction (image wise) between standard or adaptive, other that the shocks part numbers.
#89
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#91
So let me ask another question. Will the top nut eventually get tight enough that the rod stops spinning and I can torque it down? I'm putting some serious pressure on the wrench when I turn it and can barely keep the allen key from turning(have an extension on it) And all of that is to get it to barely move.
#92
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So let me ask another question. Will the top nut eventually get tight enough that the rod stops spinning and I can torque it down? I'm putting some serious pressure on the wrench when I turn it and can barely keep the allen key from turning(have an extension on it) And all of that is to get it to barely move.
I probably used the 17mm head from the ‘TEKTON 2580’ set that I have, on my torque wrench, to be able to torque the nut, while holding the shaft with a separate socket wrench that used an allen tip.
Just google ‘tekton 2580’ to see what I’m talking about, couldn’t get a link to it on my phone (kept going off to the amazon app).
#93
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CleverName (02-03-2019)
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kj07xk (02-06-2019)
#95
So the Jag is riding smooth and no Cat error but I have a clunking sound and it's driving me crazy. I didn't change out the strut cap and I'm wondering if it could be that. The only thing is I had no clunking sound when I first changed everything out with the 10 struts. I torqued everything down to spec so I don't know what to look at.
#96
#97
To answer your other question, yes it's just coming from one side or the other and it's when I hit bumps. It also only seems to happen at speeds under 35. After that I don't hear the clunking.
#99
Anyone know if that top mounting plate is the same as the Stype or XF? I have part number C2P23038 for my XK and it looks the exact same as this.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433948012
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433948012
#100
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Can’t see how it could move to cause a ‘clunk’. The underside has a crap load of spring pressure, and the top side is bolted to the body (provided you actually tightened those nuts ).