And those of us who change the synthetic oil MORE frequently than the posted schedule…

 

Wrong. Like everyone else who is subscribed to this thread, I received an automatic email notifying me of your new post. I read it and learned that you don't even own an X150! I couldn't care less about the oil you use in your' 92 VDP. You wasted my time twice; reading your reply and replying to you.



This thread is now an annoying waste of my time. Since it hasn't been closed, I unsubscribed from this thread.

 

So you were actually forced to read the thread. That's called coercive control and is against the law in the UK.

Richard

 

WHO changes the oil doesn't matter (if you trust them)
WHAT BRAND oil doesn't matter
SYNTHETIC, no need if not specified
VISCOSITY matters a lot, get it right
FREQUENCE matters a lot, get it right
Just my $0.02

 

The way I see it, if I use the oil and filter they say; if something goes wrong they cannot blame it on the parts or fluids used. It's not like the OEM filter is expensive, nor is the Castrol.

 

OP has an 07 XK with the 4.2 engine. Oil spec for 4.2 engine has always been 5w-30.

The spec change you posted does not apply to 4.2 engine.

Unless i'm missing something here?

 

Since this is an oil thread: now that I've got the sportbrake, does the XF 3.0 take the same filter as the 5.0? I got one of those blauparts oil change kits for the XKR (8 liters of Ravenol 0-20 plus a filter) about five days before I lost the car, and oil change time for the sportbrake is coming up...

 

Hhmm, just remembered something, wasn't quite sure, had to go check. Yes, on the oil filler cap it says 5W-30. That's a pretty strong hint as to what should be used, not?

Don't use the oil the ads lead you to, don't use the oil friends "have used for years without problems", don't ask a seller at the parts store. No, look in engine room/user manual/service manual what the builder of the engine recommends, and use that!

 

Yes, the 3 litre's the same spec. And for clarification, it's the second number that matters the most, the difference of 0W vs 5W relates to climate, colder climes use 0W, warmer temperate use 5W though the difference is minor. Main dealers in my region still use 5W20 for the 3 and 5 litres and 5W30 for the 4.2. Higher viscosity such as 40 or 60 should be reserved exclusively for the track where the engine's run at high RPMs for extended periods of time and need the extra protection from the extreme heat. You'll never find that in daily driving where the lower viscosity's required to protect the engine in normal road use.

To answer the OP's question as others have, I used the main dealer for many years because the price they charged me was unbeatable, even via DIY and then there were the associated perks. But, that's changed with massive price increases and it's now significantly less costly and more convenient to do it myself. In my garage it takes about 15 minutes for any of the vehicles and about $50-$60 in materials using OEM filters and proper spec oils.

 

Wow a 10w-60 oil viscosity. BMW high revving E92 V8 and V10 has rod bearing issues / failure because they run the same 10w-60 high viscosity oil and owners revs the hell out of the motor before the motor comes to temperature.

Now BMW says the V8 and V10 rod bearing needs to be replace at 100k km as part of schedule maintenance. Ouch!!

 

In normal climate conditions it's no big deal to use oil a grade or two lower at the winter end of the scale or a grade or two higher at the hot end of the scale but it's best not to do the opposite unless you are operating the car in extreme conditions.

Richard

 

Stupid question, but: so same filter, yes?

OH, AND... for whoever's still reading, I bought an oil exctractor, and the XKR oil change was, and still is, the easiest oil change I've ever done in my life.
And there's an extractor suction tube in the XF, so....

 

That's insane big end bearings as part of the 100k service ...not cool BMW

 

Yep, exact same oil filter in the 5.0 and the 3.0. No surprise as the 3.0 was derived from the 5.0.
For example see the Rock Auto page here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...il+filter,5340
Best bet on that page is the Wix 57279, a top quality filter at a bargain price.

 

Yeah just outside of the standard 3 years or 80,000km warranty. The owner will need to cop the cost of the schedule maintenance. No wonder the M3 v8 and M5/M6 V10 are so cheap. Its about a $5k AUD out of pocket expense to do this work.

At 100k km bearings, looks ready to spun and or lunch the motor real soon.

 

Unless you or your engine builder / engineer say to use different viscosity oil then I would stick with what is recommended in the manual. If you are racing around the track and either on the brakes or at full throttle all the time then its a different story. Or if your engine is leaking oil and burning oil to the point that you need to use a higher viscosity oil, your engine is about to be retired or rebuilt.

At engine startup you want the thinnest viscosity oil as possible, ie 0w or 5w so the oil can flow as FAST as possible to protect the top of the engine critical parts such as cams etc.

Once the engine (not the coolant) is at OPERATING TEMPERATURE it does not matter what the ambient outside temperature. You could be in the freezing subzero snow then drive into the hot 60C desert and then back to snow again in the same day. Are you going to stop on the side of the road and do an oil change because the outside ambient temperature changed from -10c to +60c?

Its up to the cooling system, ie radiator and thermostat to maintain the engine at range of 95-110degC no matter what the outside ambient temperature is. A higher viscosity oil just makes the engine run hotter as it flows slower than a lower viscosity oil. Too high of a viscosity and you risk lunching the motor or a piston through the block.

Modern engines has very tight tolerances and the function of engine oil is to not only lubricate metal to metal parts from touching also for cooling / transfer of heat. Oil is used to remove and cool down engine parts such as the bottom of the pistons. Using a too high of a viscosity you are slowing down the cooling effects of oil to the pistons.

Sorry I deviated from the original post. I'll shut up now.

 

From the XK 4.2 manual:

For climates ranging from -35°C to +50°C (-31°F to +122°F), the following oil viscosities may be used:
0W-30 protects from -35°C to +35°C (-31°F to +95°F).
5W-30 protects from -30°C to +35°C (-22°F to +95°F).
0W-40 protects from -35°C to +50°C (-31°F to +122°F).
5W-40 protects from -30°C to +50°C (-22°F to +122°F).

All these viscosities would be fine for the UK. As I said above, it's really not that important.

Richard

 

That chart is the reason I went with 0W-40, it has the widest temperature range.

 

Okay then for temperature range, but is that AMBIENT temperature, or ENGINE temperatures??? As in, other than initial starting climates, why would climate range even matter??? My climate is between 0F and 100F like 99% of the time. Every viscosity would pretty much work regardless.

 

Having had a few BMWs (2 e38s and an e83), they seem to unofficially expect you replace the whole damn cooling system, whole emissions system and such at periodic intervals. What's rod bearings every 60k between friends. Keep in mind I hate the ZF 5HP24 transmission and even they go more than 60k miles between major work.

For the Jaguars I run Mobil 1 or Castrol Synthetic or Pennzoil Platinum, whatever in 5W30 and change every 3-5k or once/twice a year. I run good filters too like Wix/NAPA Gold. I change the SC oil with the GM stuff every 30k. PS/Coolant/Brake Fluids every 2-3 years. Transmission and differential oil every 30-45k. Air filters every 12-24k depending on recommendation. Fuel filters in gas cars every 30-45k, diesel fuel filters every 15k. Do this in all my cars (except PS in the VW since electric PS, but otherwise same). Longevity is more a function of frequency and regularity of the change of fluids and filters than the quality of the fluid, as long as it meets the specification and is of at least average quality. I do run the overpriced 5W40 Ferrari/Maserati Pennzoil Platinum thats $90 each change and their overpriced filter at $30 but it matters when you resell more than OEM only on a Jaguar.

Pay attention to your cars. Fix it when lights come on. Fix noises and smells. Replace belts that have weather checking or squeal. Check tires and fluids (that you can reach) when at the gas station getting fuel. You can check oil, PS fluid, see the level for the coolant overflow tank, eyeball the engine for leaks and see if the tires look off in terms of alignment or air pressure (and you have TPMS but still) while its filling up fairly easily.