Well it looks like it's one piece!! Not easy to get out, right? have to remove trim on both sides? and then what? bend the carpet back somehow? This is worst than going thru engine compartment with my camera IMHO.
Am I wrong?
Help an old man please!, Adrian

 

I Just got this done!!!

There are 3 clips below the glove box that you need to squeeze and push towards the front of the car to remove, then you need to pull on the flap of the center console that is entering the passenger footwell, after that you can remove the top foam sound insulation, and then pull up the left corner of the carpet. I highly recommend doing with the AC on full blast recirculate with all the vents closed, then insert your rod and whack the area in the picture its very tight and not much room, you will need a flash light as well.
whack it hard repeatedly and check underneath the car and look for a puddle.

:icon_banan a:

 

update**********
I had a little bit of water (barely a few drops) in the footwell this morning
after using the heater... I wonder if the heater is causing the duckbill to
stick closed due to heated water flowing out.

any comments/suggestions?

 

thank you ! ! !
I really thought this was a joke, but I went ahead and did it, next thing I know water is coming out from under my car and the AC no longer leaks.

well worth the price of admission.

 

That was a great fix. I went at the blockage from the engine side of the firewall on my 4.2 XKR. Had to slide hand in space between tranny and drain box. Gave it my finger. Waterfall! About an hour +.

 

I'm not sure I'm getting it...is that part circled in red the top of the duckbill or something leading to the said duckbill?

 

Hi all

Thank you all for your great posts and pics on this issues.
I tried the razor blade tip and that didn't really work very well.
However, I decided to aim at making a new tap at the bottom of the airbox and re-plumb it to a new hole in the firewall.

Per @DpezXK8 post/pic the area circled in red is the bottom of the air box
I drilled a 5/16 hole un the very bottom and found some tubing from my brake bleed kit (use about 8")
I then peeled away that rigid insulation away from the transmission hump and drilled another hole about 6" below.
Inserted and used silicone to seal the tube in place.
Tested and works

 

I've always liked that method... quick and clean, works better than original.

 

Hi, thanks for this pic! So this is a shot of the passenger footwell, right?
And does this trick actually bypass the duckbill?

Thanks in advance for the info!

 

Jeez..

 

Erm...what do you mean by that, actually?

 

It doesn't bypass the duckbill; it adds a second method to drain the evap box.

 

Which means you can still get water in the passenger footwell if the duckbill is clogged, right?

 

When the duckbill is jammed the condensate reservoir will fill up until it overflows into the footwell. The drain pipe mod is tapped into the bottom of the reservoir so it constantly drains out and never reaches the overflow level. It doesn't matter whether the duckbill is totally or partially clogged as it is now bypassed.

Richard

 

Just travelled from UK to South of France in my 06 XK converible - wife complaining of wet fett all way due to AC water flowing into passenger well.
Tried this fix - nto a drop of wayer came out of the tube but she's still getting wet.
I drilled the hopefor drain hole as indicated but no joy.

When I get home I'll Hve to bight the bullet and put into a jag garage to get repaired.

 

I've had this issue on and off since I bought my 2009 5.0xkr and although I could initially use the closing vents trick to force water out, lack of driving over COVID seemed to finally force the duckbill to seal up tighter than a duck's butt...I have been turning corners and hearing big swishing sounds from the blower as the trapped water washed back and forth.

I'd tried going down the engine bay but with the 5.0s and the sound deadening and fat arms it felt impossible. This, was soooo easy! I was skeptical, but I hit it 3 times with a piece of 1*0.5 and a mallet and looked under the car and water was pouring out!

A few tips for the RHDers and the 5.0ers amongst us-

1. Pulling the carpet back on the passenger side - start with the edge nearest the transmission tunnel, as you pull, the leatherette centre console trim piece will unclip a few bits, giving a bit of flexibility. Then pull from the top of the carpet (behind the blower) down and wedge it under the blower itself. Doesn't need to come out any further than that
2. Get a torch and follow the blower and big square tubing to the centre - there's a bit where it crosses a wiring loom which has a couple of perfectly designed corners to wedge a stick in. That's where you want to wedge your wood/bar/whatever
3. It took less force than I thought it would

looking at the photo, follow the top of the barcode sticker right, and above the 3rd velcro loom wrap you'll see a small triangle indent in the black plastic tube - that's where I wedged my stick. The photo is looking into the passenger footwell, and the loom runs along the transmission tunnel, with the metal footplate being the top right hand corner of the footwell, behind the carpet

 

Subscribed.

 

Hi All,

Gentle whacking of the triangle does actually work!
I had the drain problem in my 2006 4.2 XK.
Knowing my luck I didn't expect much, but just a few gentle strikes with a metal rod and the water broke
​​​​​​
@hloucks, thank you so much!

Just in case, attaching the pictures showing the are that I hit.

 

I had the blocked drain a few years back, I removed the plastic engine cover and slide my hand down between the engine block and the firewall and found the drain hole in the bodywork, but my hand was to large to allow me to slide my finger all the way in. So I got my son who's hands were thinner to stick his finger in the hole and he could feel the end of the "duck bill". I told him to wiggle his finger around and all of a sudden the water poured out. I then put a big blob of Vaseline on the end of his finger and got him to coat the end of the drain, (so the rubber wouldn't dry out and stick together again). Still ok 4 years later, but I do regularly close all the vents and turn the fan on high to blow the water out, so far so good. If you don't have someone with a skinny hand and long fingers you could try a scope, which was my next go to.

 

Have an XKR. Removed the supercharger plumbing next to firewall. Ran a scope down to duckbill area to check out the situation. Have small hands and long arms so it was easy to reach down and manipulate the duckbill (which was stuck together). No more passenger footwell leaks. Fine for now but expect I'll have to go back in at some point and cut off the duckbill. So glad we have this forum to share solutions.