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that's normal, although, you might have more than usual of this crud passing through. the muffler usually catches most of it. it's a bit of oil sneaking past cold rings (or pushed out of the topside with PCV?), the combustion products, leftover moisture from condensation after the previous run and subsequent cooling, maybe some dust and filth getting sucked in through the EVAP system at startup when it purges vapor -- but mostly i think oil and water.
if its oil and water, it should show like white smoke, right?
Moe the first thing on your acceleration is you catalytic converters is clogger you need to replace it. That will allow your engine to breath. It’s just like a clogged nose after you blow it real good and get the junk out you can breath again. Plus it’s deteriorating with pieces coming out
I need to inspect it properly. is it easy to take it out? or do i have to cut through the exhaust?
Moe on your sensors you don’t have any really bad ones The ones that jumped out at me were the oxygen control sensors change those out they are real easy I did them myself and they make a huge difference. When you change them make sure they seat all the way down and are not loose I put a small bead of heat resistant silicone on mine because the screw holes were not grabbing. Also I put a small zip tie on the sensor to the hose connection. Also on the one on the top of the manifold it has a return line that feeds to the radiator. That one is always loose put a zip tie there also. Thee sensors for 3 are under $200 usd about 70usd each
I will look them up on ebay or amazon. maybe it's time to change them.
I will take a look on the converter first, and if that did not work, i'll go with the sensors as next step.
I went ahead with the hard reset as i mentioned above. I drove it for a week for the ECU to relearn. However, weird codes still popping up every now and then. I suspect the battery might be bad now.
one more thing happened after the hard reset, is the car having difficulties starting up when its warm (if i drove it and left it for couple of hours then try to start again. However, when its cold, it starts okay), maybe this is because of the battery?
Steps am taking next week:
1- the Bosch 010 unit arrived today, waiting for the MB parts to arrive (not available here and ordered from Germany - i had to order 10 pieces for the dealership to make the order .
2- Once arrived, am going to the mechanic to install it, and hopefully i can find the leak somewhere around it.
3- I'll get the o2 sensors cleaned and change the fuel filter.
4- I'll check on the cat converter status.
5- I'll clean the MAF sensors.
6- If no visible leaks are there, I'll get the cylinder tested as suggested above.
I have attached a video on the startup issue i mentioned above.
if its oil and water, it should show like white smoke, right?
not necessarily. a lot of the water isn't passing through the combustion chamber. its condensation in the exhaust from when it cooled after the previous run. hot exhaust, which is kinda dirty at startup, is forcing it out now. there's all kinds of deposits inside the exhaust that come loose too. with no rear exhaust, every couple months, my garage floor needs a bit of a cleaning:
I went ahead with the hard reset as i mentioned above. I drove it for a week for the ECU to relearn. However, weird codes still popping up every now and then. I suspect the battery might be bad now.
one more thing happened after the hard reset, is the car having difficulties starting up when its warm (if i drove it and left it for couple of hours then try to start again. However, when its cold, it starts okay), maybe this is because of the battery?
Steps am taking next week:
1- the Bosch 010 unit arrived today, waiting for the MB parts to arrive (not available here and ordered from Germany - i had to order 10 pieces for the dealership to make the order .
2- Once arrived, am going to the mechanic to install it, and hopefully i can find the leak somewhere around it.
3- I'll get the o2 sensors cleaned and change the fuel filter.
4- I'll check on the cat converter status.
5- I'll clean the MAF sensors.
6- If no visible leaks are there, I'll get the cylinder tested as suggested above.
I have attached a video on the startup issue i mentioned above.
Hello again guys,
sorry for the long time in between, but parts take a lot of time to reach my location here.
I took the car today to the Mechanic (010+MB parts), when i started the car in the morning, it felt weird and shaking a bit, when i tried to accelerate a little bit, restricted performance came right away, and the car had zero power (it barely reached 30 KM/hr). Whenever i hit the accelerator, the power goes down, like the car preventing me from going beyond 30Km. which is weird because the P2601 RP when it comes, i can easily go to 100KM but the RPM is restricted to 2500. This time, i can't accelerate. A weird sound coming from the car (plopping sound, i cant describe it like pop pop pop) and the entire car is shaking hard with the accelerator being pushed and i can hear backfire from the exhaust.
I managed to reach the mechanic place (crossing my fingers it wont breakdown on the road), he did the below:
1- He changed the Bosch 010
2- Installed new fuel filter
The car started with the same weird sound and when he pushed the accelerator with the car at park, RP came up (no code is stored), then after several on and off of the engine the code U0405 came up (but this one was there before comes and goes - intermittent).
He inspected the spark plugs and coils, the spark plugs came out black (i changed them 2 months ago, so it was weird seeing them looking like this). he cleaned them and tested them with the car on along with the coils, and they were fine.
After starting the car again, it was okay at first (no weird sound and the car when pushing the accelerator not shaking). I took it for a spin, but i went as far as 10 meters and same thing happened (sound, no power and the car barely move).
I went back, he took the sparks again (they were black once more). He suggested, its the catalytic converter that is totally clogged, leading to carbon or something on the plugs and the weird car behavior.
I left the car at his garage for the day, he'll remove the converters and inspect them manually (no code is stored related to them).
The problem is, if they went bad, i'll have an issue as they are not at the dealership and ordering it through them will cost around USD 3,000. Also, i can't order them myself as there are rules here and only dealership is allowed to import them. And for the scrap option, they will cost around USD 1,500 and i'll be lucky if i found only one. So am not sure what will be the alternative (he said he'll clear all the broken parts inside the converter and re-install as is and drive it for awhile till i figure it out nut the exhaust will smell very bad).
Anyways, sorry for the long post, am writing in details, maybe someone can pick something up and give me an opinion whether am walking in the right direction or am i missing something.
Will keep you posted on what will happen tomorrow.
There is a hack…. in your situation, take off the cats, cut out the catalytic canister and replace with a generic one. Be sure to do each side.
Or have an exhaust shop fabricate them for you.
It won’t cost that much. While you’re at it might as well consider a lower restrictive catalytic medium like 400 or 200 cell. Your exhaust shop will know what I’m talking about. It you go this route, have O2 bungs on hand as you may throw codes without them in place.
and btw, you’re lucky you didn’t cause severe damage to the engine. And don’t sweat it! Catalytic converters (like any ‘filter’) will clog over time in use.
If I were in Kuwait you could have these… there’s nothing wrong with them other than they are factory…
There is a hack…. in your situation, take off the cats, cut out the catalytic canister and replace with a generic one. Be sure to do each side.
Or have an exhaust shop fabricate them for you.
It won’t cost that much. While you’re at it might as well consider a lower restrictive catalytic medium like 400 or 200 cell. Your exhaust shop will know what I’m talking about. It you go this route, have O2 bungs on hand as you may throw codes without them in place.
and btw, you’re lucky you didn’t cause severe damage to the engine. And don’t sweat it! Catalytic converters (like any ‘filter’) will clog over time in use.
If I were in Kuwait you could have these… there’s nothing wrong with them other than they are factory…
Thanks a lot bro. I'll let you know if i ever came to Canada :P :P
I picked up the car yesterday, he removed the 2 catalytic. one of them was 100% clogged and the other one 80%. he took out all the material inside both and cleared them all the way.
Now the car runs very smoothly, i've had the car for couple of months now, and yesterday was actually the first day to drive it for real. Acceleration is much much better, even the coolant loss is gone (i'll have to keep an eye on it but after 2 days driving, the level remains the same).
The bad part of it that the car is very very loud. It sounds like a real V8 engine now, but its just too much. Whenever i hit the accelerator, heads on the street would turn around or get spooked from the sound.
I'll need to go to a custom shop as you said and will ask them to customize one if they can (i'll ask him about the 400 or 200 cell).
I think i'll need to clean all the carbon in the engine, as am sure its pretty bad inside. Was thinking to go to one of those carbon cleaner shops (the machine they are using is CCS1500 HHO Carbon cleaner), but i need to do more research on the matter to make sure it won't cause any damage.
Overall, am pretty happy with the car performance so far.
@ralphwg , perhaps not very efficient, but that sure is fun! @Moe Eid , everyone I know personally in the middle east changes their engine oil far more frequently then we do here. Ralph has a point. There are a number of threads of changing ALL fluids, run injector cleaner and oil additive and go for a GOOD drive. Then change the fluids again. You should be happy and amazed with the crud that comes out. You’d probably want to do that before installing new cats as we don’t want them plugged again.
On the matter of clogged cats…. they do clog over time. But what aids the clogging can and is most probably a malfunctioning injector.
Also, I can’t imagine the sound of the car without any exhaust. That would certainly turn heads. I propose its probably louder than this year’s F1 cars…. But for your sanity and others, go see a custom exhaust shop. They can fix that in an hour.
You're correct. due to the extreme weather condition here (in summer, the average temperature is around 50C to 55C and sometimes more), if the oil is for 10K KM, we change it around 7K KM max (or 3 months).
I will do the fluid changes as soon as possible and clean as much of the engine, and will check the injectors.
For the cats, i found a specialized guy, i might go see him by next week whenever i got the time and see what he has to say. Hopefully a customized cats won't trigger any kind of fault code in the car.
And for the sound, i've uploaded the video of the car on startup and revving on a low RPM (1500-2000) in the below link as couldn't upload here due to size restriction. I wouldn't dare revving it more for everyone sake as the sound is much deeper than in the vid.
Thanks a lot guys for the help i really appreciate it. I'll continue with the clean up process, and will let you know if i faced any complications.
@ralphwg , perhaps not very efficient, but that sure is fun! @Moe Eid , everyone I know personally in the middle east changes their engine oil far more frequently then we do here.
If it helps, for the S-Type (I only have the specific maintenance/service sheet for it), Jaguar regard such markets as "arduous" and call for oil changes every 6 months as opposed to 12 months for other markets.
05-09-2021, 03:36 PM
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